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MODERNIST CUISINE
Copyright © 2012 by The Cooking Lab, LLC All rights reserved. Except as permitted under the U.S. Copyright Act of 1976, no part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, or stored in a database or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the publisher. All trademarks used are property of their respective owners. The Cooking Lab 3150 139th Ave SE Bellevue,WA 98005 www.modernistcuisine.com ISBN: 978-0-9827610-1-4 First edition, 2012 Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available upon request Printed in China
MODERNIST CUISINE! Nathan Myhrvold with Maxime Bilet Photography by Nathan Myhrvold Melissa Lehuta and The Cooking Lab Photography Team
The Cooking Lab
Forewords Our Culinary Journeys The Story of This Book What Is Modernist Cuisine? About the Recipes
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xiv xvii xviii XX
PART ONE: STOCKING THEMODERNIST KITCHEN Chapter 1: Countertop Tools 5 Invaluable Modernist Tools Digital Scales Digital Thermometers Silicone Mats and Molds Microplanes Blenders and Food Processors Mixers and Frothers Ice-Cream Makers Ice Cream in a Flash Blowtorches Jaccard Tender izers Injectors Sieves and Strainers Whipping Siphons Juicers Dehydrators
Chapter 2: Conventional Cooking Gear Stoves Pots and Pans Pressure Cookers A Buyer's Guide to Pressure Cookers Cooking Under Pressure Conventional Ovens The Household Stove Combi Ovens Ways to Use a Combi Oven Microwave Ovens Ways to Use a Microwave Oven Making Waves Grills Hot as Hell
Chapter 3: Cooking Sous Vide Four Simple Steps Getting the Air Out Bags, Rigid Containers, and Jars Vacuum Sealers Solutions for Common Sealing Problems Cooking and Reheating Water Baths Improvised Water Baths
Chapter 4: Ingredients Unusual Ingredients Not Your Parents' Supermarket Take a Walk on the Wild Side Unusual Fruits and Vegetables Foraged Foods: Autumn and Spring
g 7 g 9 9 10 11 12 13 14 16 16 17 18 20 21
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PART TWO: THE RECIPES Chapter 5: Basics Stocks Pressure-Cooked White Chicken Stock Brown Chicken Stock Pressure-Cooked Brown Beef Stock Brown Pork Stock White Beef Stock Sous Vide Fish Stock Brown Fish Stock Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Stock Vegetable Stock Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock Brown Vegetable Stock Toasted Corn Stock Mushroom Jus Brown Chicken Jus Brown BeefJus Game Bird Jus Home Jus Gras Ultrastable Butter Sauce Sauces Thickening with Wondra Redeye Gravy Red Wine Glaze Solutions to Common Problems When Thickening and Gelling Onion Fluid Gel Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel Pressure-Cooked Drippings Caramelized Onion Gravy Pistachio Pesto Spinach Pesto Cilantro Pesto Chervil, Thyme, and Scallion Pesto Roasted Red Pepper Pesto Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto Sauce Verte Mughal Curry Sauce Kerala Curry Sauce Muslim Curry Sauce Sous Vide Hollandaise Crustacean Hollandaise Garlic Hollandaise Spicy Hollandaise Modernist Mayonnaise Aioli Bacon Mayonnaise Rouille Tartar Sauce MC Special Sauce Pressure-Caramelized Ketchup Barbecue Ketchup Salsa Verde Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce Marinara Pizza Sauce Tomato Sofrito Bolognese Pineapple Marinara Strawberry Marinara Thai Sweet, Sour, and Savory Glaze
83 84 84 85 86 86 86 87 87 88 89 89 89 90 91 92 92 92 93 93 94 95 96 97 99 100 100 101 101 102 103 103 103 103 103 103 104 104 104 106 106 106 106 108 108 108 108 108 109 110 110 111 111 112 112 112 112 112 114 115
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Oils and Pats Sous Vide Lemon Herb Oil Modernist Vinaigrette Cilantro Vinaigrette Sesame Dressing Vietnamese-Style Dressing Spiced Chili Dressing Cherry Vinaigrette Fines Herbes Vinaigrette with Pistachio Butter Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil Pressure-Cooked Spiced Chili Oil Garlic Oil Lemon Oil Basic Chili Oil Ginger Oil Vanilla Oil Rosemary Oil Thyme Oil Montpellier Butter Stove-Top Carotene Butter Bell Pepper, Spinach, Coffee, and Porcini Butters Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter Sous Vide Crustacean Butter Pressure-Cooked Lobster Bisque Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat Condiments Grilled Applesauce Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit Provencal Garlic Confit Mediterranean Vegetable Confit Fingerling Potatoes Confit Pressure-Caramelized Onions Dried Caramelized Onions French Onion Soup Tomato Confit Tomato Leather Mango Chili Leather Fruit Leather Onion Leather Vacuum-Pickled Vegetables Vacuum-Infused Celery Pressure-Infused Celery Waldorf Salad Brines and Marinades Sweet Brine for Meats Basic Brine for Whole Poultry Savory Poultry Brine Fish Brine Seaweed Fish Brine Fish Cure Marinades Kalbi Marinade Vietnamese Marinade Mediterranean Yogurt Marinade Mexican Marinade Barbecue Marinade Spice Mixes MC Curry Powder Vindaloo Spice Mix Chaat Masala Fish Spice Mix Autumn Spice Mix Chili Spice Mix Grilling Spice Mix
116 116 117 117 117 117 117 117 117 118 118 118 118 118 118 118 118 118 120 121 121 122
122 122 123
124 124 125 126 126 126 126 127
127 127 128 129 129 129 129 130 131 131 131 132 132 133 133
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Chapter 6: Breakfast Eggs Egg Textures French Scrambled Eggs Scrambled Egg Pudding Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs Mini Egg Cups Omelet Fillings Florentine Omelet Filling Alsatian Omelet Filling Espagnole Omelet Filling Raviolo Omelet Filling Steamed Herb Omelet Striped Mushroom Omelet Mushroom Puree Cream of Mushroom Soup Shiitake Marmalade Eggs Sunny-Side Up Deviled Eggs
Chapter 7: Salads and Cold Soups Raspberry Gazpacho Fruit Minestrone Strawberry Panna Cotta Fruit Salad Cheese Course Strawberry Juice with Green Apple Foam Modernist Vichyssoise Vichyssoise with Potato Peel Reduction Roasted-Potato Vichyssoise Sweet Onion Slaw Composing a Great Salad Green Salad with Romaine Dressing Herb and Romaine Broth Beet Salad Parmesan Crisp Pressure-Cooked Quinoa Salad with Cauliflower Pressure-Cooked Chickpea Salad Sous Vide Tuna Confit Tuna Confit Salad and Tuna Melt Sandwich Pressure-Cooked Lentil Salad
Chapter 8: Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Soups Caramelized Carrot Soup Caramelized Carrot Puree Other Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Soups and Purees Squash Soup Artichoke Soup Mushroom Soup Cauliflower Soup Leek and Onion Soup Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree Apple and Parsnip Soup Bell Pepper Soup Broccoli-Gruyere Soup Corn Soup Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Jus Pressure-Cooked Vegetables Pressure-Cooked Barley Barley Salad Vegetable Stew Seasonal Herb Garnishes
141 142 144 144 144 144 145 14S 145 145 145 146 148 150 ISO 151 152 152
155 156 1S8 161 161 161 161 162 163 163 165 166 168 168 168 169 170 172 174 174 175
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Chapter 9: Steak Cuts of Steak Grades of Meat Premium Varieties of Beef Cooking Steak Sous Vide Steak Low-Temp Oven Steak Frozen Steak Sous Vide Steak in a Cooler Creamed Spinach South Indian Watercress Grilled Steak Grilled Pork Chop Sous Vide Lamb Skewers
Chapter 10: Cheeseburger Modernist Hamburger Patty Firm Burger Patty White Sandwich Bread Modernist Cheeseburger Ultrafrothy Milk Shake Modernist Meatloaf Sandwich
Chapter 11: Carnitas Pressure-Cooked Carnitas Achiote Paste Sous Vide Carnitas Whole Shoulder Other Braised Meat and Poultry Dishes Lamb Leg Tajinc Pork Shoulder Fricasee with Apples and Morels Pork Vindaloo with Naan Korean Short-Rib Lettuce Wraps Braised Duck with Steamed Buns Pressure-Cooked Chicharron Refried Bean Foam Refried Bean Puree Other Bean Foams Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Adobo Sous Vide Pork Belly Adobo
Chapter 12: Braised Short Ribs Braised Short Ribs Potato Puree Infused-Cream Potato Puree Garlic Mashed Potatoes Sweet Potato Puree Pork Belly B.L.T. Pressure-Cooked Pork Belly Smoked Bacon B.L.T. Lamb Curry Pressure-Cooked Lamb Shanks Whole Lamb Shank
Chapter 13: Roast Chicken Roast Chicken Pincushion Chicken Extra-Juicy Chicken Deep-Fried Chicken Spatchcock Chicken Combi Oven Roast Chicken Slow-Baked Chicken with Onions Sous Vide Chicken Turkey Con fit Sous Vide Turkey Breast
186 188 190 191 192 194 196 197 198 199 199 200 202 203
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210 212 213 214 217 218 219 219 219 220 220 220 221 221 221 222 223 223 223 224 224
226 229 230 230 230 230 232 232 232 234 234 234
237 238 241 241 241 241 241 242 244 246 247
Chapter 14: Chicken Wings Sous Vide Buffalo Wings Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-Style Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings Puffed Chicken Skin Boneless Yakitori Wings Buffalo Sauce Honey Mustard Sauce Yakitori Sauce Korean Wing Sauce Blue Cheese Sauce Aerated Blue Cheese Sauce Chinese Garlic Chili Condiment Skewers Pesto Chicken Thighs Korean Pork Belly Deep-Fried Tsukune Chicken Skin Yakitori Tsukune Lamb Skewers with Mint Yogurt Chicken Breast Satay Beef Short Ribs with Shiitake Marmalade Filet Mignon with Montpellier Butter
249 250 252 254 254 256 258 259 260 260 261 261 261 262 262 262 262 262 263 263 263 263 263
Chapter 15: Chicken Noodle Soup
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Aromatic Chicken Broth Other Aromatic Broths and Soups Pho Soup Thai Soup Goulash Broth Chinese Soup Tortilla Soup Fresh Egg Noodles Dressed Noodles Potato Noodles Rye Noodles Masa Harina Noodles Barley Noodles Coconut Noodles Whole Wheat Noodles Rice Noodles Pressure-Cooked Carrots and Leeks Chicken Noodle Soup
266 267 267 267 267 267 267 268 270 270 270 270 271 271 271 271 272 273
Chapter 16: Salmon Fragrant Sous Vide Salmon Crispy Fish Skin Baked Fish Skin Chips Crispy Chicken or Pork Skin Selecting Salmon
Chapter 17: Shellfish Lobster Roll
Shrimp or Crab Roll Sous Vide Lobster Tail Mussels Mariniere Clams in Chowder Sauce Oyster Stew Pistachio Clam Chowder South of France Chowder Sous Vide Braised Snails
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274 276 279 279 279 280
282 288 288 288 290 292 292 292 292 293
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Chapter 18: Pizza Neapolitan Pizza Dough Quinoa Pizza Dough Buckwheat Pizza Dough Breadsticks Garlic Knots "Everything" Pretzels Cinnamon-Sugar Doughnut Holes Rustic Pizza Dough Whole Wheat Pizza Dough Poolish No-Knead Pizza Dough Pizza Stones, Plates, and Pans Classic Pizza Variations Napolitana, Funghi, and Hawaiian Pizzas Pizza Margherita Oven-Fried Pizza Deep-Dish Fried Pizza Pizza Toppings Broccoli Raab, Genovese, and Capicola Pizzas Uovo and Finocchiona Pizzas Pizza Cruda
295 296 296 296 296 297 297 297 298 298 299 300 301 303 303 304 305 305 306 306 307 307
Chapter 19: Mac and Cheese Mac and Cheese Mac with Jack and Stilton Mac with Sharp Cheddar and Swiss Mac with Gorgonzola and Fontina Mac and Gruyere Mac with Goat Gouda and Cheddar Broccoli with Cheese Sauce Fondue Baked Mac and Cheese "Fat-Free" Mac and Cheese Mac and Fontina Mac and Parmesan Mac and Cheddar Cheese Crisps Cheese Crumble Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice Grilled Cheese Sandwiches Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples Camcmbert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Con fit Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Count and Basil Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade
Chapter 20: Risotto and Paella
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Cooking Grains • Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco Vegetable Risotto Pressure-Cooked Risotto Risotto and Paella Variations Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams Arborio Rice with Caramelized Squash and Saffron Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine Steel-Cut Oats with Sous Vide Braised Snails Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives Quinoa with Pistachio Peato and Asparagus Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree Arborio Rice with Sea Urchin and Cocoa
310 310 310 310 310 310 310 310 312 314 314 314 314 315 316
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320 324 326 328 329 330 330 330 331 331 332 332 333 333
Chapter 21: Corn meal
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Pressure-Cooked Polenta
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Corn Juice Grits Shrimp and Grits Cheese Grits Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales Corn Juice Tamales Hush Puppies
337 338 338 340 340 340
Chapter 22: Dishes for the Microwave Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan Sichuan Bok Choy BokChoy Medley Autumn Flavors Bok Choy Microwaved Potato Salad Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger Microwaved Sea Bass, Tilapia, Halibut, or Sole Aromatic Microwaved Cod Microwaved BeefJerky Spicy Jerky Smoky Jerky Biltongjerky Crispy Beef Strands Crispy Beef and Shallot Salad Crispy Shallots Microwave-Fried Parsley Instant Chocolate Sponge Peanut Butter Sponge Sesame Sponge Raspberry Macadamia Nut Sponge
342 344 346 346 346 346 348 348 348 3S0 350 350 350 352 353 353 354 356 357 357 357
Chapter 23: Custards and Pies Making Custard Coffee Creme Brulee Pot de Creme Bain-Marie Creme Brulee Flan Lemon Posset Sous Vide Lemon Curd Fruit Curds Foamed Lemon Curd Raspberry Panna Cotta Fruit Jellies Vegetarian Panna Cotta Sous Vide Vanilla Creme Anglaise Sabayon Pistachio Gelato Hazelnut Gelato Strawberry Macadamia Gelato P.B.&J.Gelato Flaky Pie Crust Double Almond, Brown Butter, Gingerbread, Peanut, Carrot, Cheese, Coconut, Raspberry, and Chocolate Crusts Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream Firm, Amaretto, Lemon, Coconut, Ginger, Cheese, Pressure-Infused Coffee, and Chocolate Pastry Creams Pie Toppings Apple Foam Passion Fruit Glaze Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Dust Blowtorched-Caramelized Bananas Caramelized Almonds Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder Cream Pies Almond and Cherry, Ginger, Coconut, and Chocolate Cream Pies Banana, Apple, Savory Cheese, and Raspberry Lemon Cream Pies
358 360 362 362 362 362 364 365 365 365 366 366 366 368 369 370 370 370 370 372 372 374 375 376 376 376 376 377 377 377 378 378 379
Further Reading Glossary of Cooking Terms Reference Tables Contributors Acknowledgments and Photo Credits Step by Step Procedures and Tables of Best Bets Index
IV XII XXIV XXVI XXVII XXIV
Foreword When Nathan asked me to write the foreword to his newest tome, I was flattered, of course, but also apprehensive that I would not have time to try enough of the recipes, or leisure enough to read this impressive, large volume of recipes, techniques, and suggestions for a new way to cook at home. I had already looked through Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking—an amazing, encyclopedic cookbook in six volumes that was published in 2011, and I had also cooked with Nathan and his impressive staff in his laboratory, outside Seattle, where the books are created. Upon further investigation and after a lot more studying, I became completely hooked on the contents of that book, and also happy that Nathan had decided to distill the very essence of the big book into a smaller volume for the home-cooking enthusiast. It is a pleasure to introduce a wider set of readers to Nathan and Modernist Cuisine at Home. When I first met Nathan, he was still working as the chief technology officer at Microsoft. Having already earned his fortune, he was then building an incredibly eclectic home on Lake Washington, designing much of it and its contents himself. As I toured his fabulous kitchen one day, I discovered that Nathan, a very well-educated scientist proficient in several highly technical fields, was at heart a true foodie—one whom any other foodie could relate to on many different levels.
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sauce to carrot soup, from hamburgers to roast chicken. In the Middle Ages, Nathan Myhrvold would have been called "Nathan the Curious." Today he is being hailed as the man who became a chef via science, whose eyes were opened to the infinite possibilities of cuisine and flavors by other food pioneers like Marc Veyrat, Ferran Adria, and Heston Blumenthal. Nathan was so inspired, in fact, that he built The Cooking Lab and hired an impressive team of like-minded, highly qualified chefs who mastered a whole new batterie de cuisine: from sous vide vacuum sealers, water baths, and combi ovens to centrifuges, ultrasonic homogenizers, and rotary evaporators. Equally impressive, they have now found ways to realize the power of many of those precision cooking techniques in home kitchens that don't have a lot of fancy equipment. Items our mothers or grandmothers used regularly, like the pressure cooker, have been dusted off and put back to use as thoroughly modern tools. Nathan and his team also applied their cariosity and willingness to experiment to the pantry. He looked beyond the familiar offerings of traditional grocery stores and added agar, xanthan gum, sodium citrate, and liquid lecithin to his shelves. These new ingredients can solve problems that home cooks face every day.
The kitchen that Nathan had created in his home was hardly an ordinary home kitchen. It contained a machine that freezes food in 20 seconds, another machine that thaws food in 30 seconds, a computer-controlled smoker that can barbecue a whole hog perfectly, as well as convection ovens, induction burners, walk-in refrigerators, and a machine that makes perfect ice cream in the blink of an eye.
Modernist Cuisine at Home is destined to change the way we cook—and the way we use recipes. I do believe that we will become more questioning of the way we prepare foods. We will wonder Is this the best way to make mac and cheese? Will the bechamel, thickened with flour, yield the most delicious macaroni, or should I pick up that cmulsifier called sodium citrate, and use that instead? And why shouldn't I be cooking all grains under pressure in a fraction of the time?
It was the kitchen of a scientist, the laboratory of an insatiably curious man who is on a mission to reinvent the way we cook food and think about food. It was in this kitchen that Nathan began his journey to develop an entirely new way to consider ingredients, technology, and artistry in the preparation of the food we all eat and love, from tomato
For all of us who cook regularly, this book opens up a whole new world of possibilities. It is full of insights that encourage us to try something new, and that teach us something on every single page. Martha Stewart Martha Stewart living Omnimedia May 2012
Foreword For many of us, our love of cooking is born in an early memory that never leaves us and spurs a desire to establish a culinary path for ourselves from a young age. Nathan Myhrvold s culinary trek has been more direct and distinct in recent years, but that same seed was planted long ago, well before his successes in business. Even though he is one of those rare and gifted intellectuals in the world of mathematics and technology—and his achievements in these fields are extraordinary— Nathan's childhood dream never wavered, and his love for the culinary arts has led him back to carve his own course toward his vision and version of it. Throughout the process of his research on Modernist Cuisine, Nathan and I were engaged in numerous dialogues to discuss my work as a chef. Our conversations culminated with a more-thangracious invitation to dinner at his test kitchen just outside Seattle after the book was published. It was an extremely memorable evening spent with his coauthors and chefs Chris Young and Maxime Bilet, and I left inspired as I familiarized myself with his viewpoints on food and cooking techniques. After that dinner and further reading of his work, it became obvious that our entire profession would be forever indebted to Nathan's contributions and dedication to the Modernist Cuisine project. He has pushed the envelope in his research and recipe development, and he has put his everinquisitive mind to great use for our benefit. His formulas, documentation of procedures, and techniques have resulted in the most extensive coverage on progressive cuisine today, using tools and equipment that we would not have ever thought to marry with cooking in the past. More important, the set of reference books that he produced has allowed our profession to evolve in a more uniform way. Those who have read his books have witnessed a major step in the world of cooking—something that rarely occurs in a single generation. He didn't just raise the bar when his highly anticipated book set finally came to print in 2011, he brought it to a new plateau. He and his team had set a new standard.
It seems natural, and nearly philanthropic, that Nathan's next step has been to write a version that is accessible for the home cook. It is often the case that scientific advances made for industrial operations make their way slowly but surely to the home kitchen: one need look no further for an example than the ubiquitous microwave oven. In its incipient form, the commercially available oven weighed in at over 700 pounds and stood as tall as a full-grown man. Through the years, not only did the dimensions of microwave ovens become significantly smaller, but they also became more efficient. Today, this appliance is a staple in nearly every home. Nathan's work has followed the same process. Here he has been successful in distilling the original Modernist Cuisine into something that is more user-friendly and practical for daily use—not to mention that it comes in a form that no longer challenges the weight of the first microwave ovens. Modernist Cuisine at Home offers useful techniques and solutions that expand our abilities, and it provides us with a practiced and thorough understanding of why things happen the way they do. Most importantly, it ignites a curiosity within and compels us to ask ourselves not "What should we make for dinner?" but rather, "What can we make for dinner?" Not since Harold McGee wrote On Food and Cooking have we been offered such a clear and concise scientific approach to guide us. Nathan's sense of fun and wonderment in discovery are ever present, and they call for us to leave our comfort zones and try something new. While his points of view are novel to most for now, I have no doubt whatsoever that these will be embraced as common practice in home kitchens in the very near future. I can readily and happily see that Modernist Cuisine at Home will provide another quantum leap in our understanding and in our relationship with the food we like to cook. Thomas Keller The French Laundry May 2012
XI 1 I
Our Culinary Journeys I have always loved food, and when I was nine years old, I discovered cookbooks on a visit to the library. I promptly announced to my mother that I was going to cook Thanksgiving dinner. Amazingly, she let me do the cooking, including nearly setting the dining table on fire. I was hooked. I got more books from the library and started to learn about cooking. I soon discovered Escoffier's Le Guide Culinaire and pored over it, along with books by Julia Child, James Beard, Richard Olney, and other authors of classic cookbooks about French cuisine. My interest in cooking was so strong that I might have become a chef, had my interest in other things—particularly math and science— not intervened. I was very good at school and often skipped grades, to the point that I started college at age 14. Every topic related to math and science fascinated me, so by the time I was finished with school, I had quite a collection of degrees: a Ph.D. in mathematical physics, a master's degree in economics, another master's degree in geophysics and space physics, and a bachelor's degree in mathematics. By that point I was 23 years old. My next step was to become a postdoctoral fellow at Cambridge University, where I worked with Dr. Stephen Hawking on the quantum theory of gravitation. My career in science was off to a roaring start. Life takes unexpected twists and turns, however. Partway through my fellowship with Stephen, I decided to take a summer oft" to work on a software project with some friends from graduate school. By the end of the summer, venture capitalists had expressed interest in our project, so I extended my leave of absence. We incorporated the project as a start-up company,
and 1 became the CEO. Two years later, the startup was acquired by another software company: Microsoft. Within a couple years, I was working directly for Bill Gates, and in time I became Microsoft's first chief technology officer. The fob was demanding, and I had less time for cooking than ever. I did manage to take short leaves from Microsoft to cook as an apprentice at Rovers, a great French restaurant in Seattle run by chef Thierry Rautureau, and then attend La Varenne, a professional culinary school in France. After retiring from Microsoft in 1999 at age 40,1 was determined to spend more time in the kitchen. I began learning about a new trend in experimental cooking techniques, which led to my first cookbook, Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking. My coauthors Chris Young, Maxime Bilet, and I, along with the rest of our team, created a six-volume, 2,438-page cookbook that aimed to be the definitive resource on the history, techniques, and ideas behind this culinary revolution. Now we've turned our attention to writing this book, which explores using the techniques from Modernist Cuisine in a home kitchen. Our goal is to broaden the number of people who can use these ideas and to encourage making Modernist cooking part of their daily lives. If circumstances had been different, 1 might be a chef today. But 1 am not unhappy with the way things turned out. I have derived enormous enjoyment from cooking and eating over the years. Ultimately, my strange culinary journey has given rise to both Modernist Cuisine and Modernist Cuisine at Home—a way to make a contribution of my own to the world of cooking. Nathan Myhrvold
When I was two years old, I put my family in peril in the name ofchocolat chattel. I escaped from my room in the middle of the night, found a pot, milk, some Nesquik, and a stool to climb on, but alas could find no matches. And so the gas began filling the apartment as I pondered my next culinary venture. Fortunately, tragedy was averted that night, but my sense for culinary exploration was left uncompromised. Our family had a great passion for sharing good food, and they inspired me to communicate through creative cooking. My grandfather was a gourmand par excellence who regaled us with stories of his experiences of great restaurants, secret wine cellars, and obscure chocolatiers. To him, food was a philosophy: "the essence of existence," he would exclaim before a feast of Gillardeau No. 2 and cold Chablis. He demonstrated the joys to be found in living with an open mind and an adventurous palate. I began to cook seriously while studying art and literature in college. My friends and parents were patient guinea pigs as I experimented with recipes selected from my ever-growing collection of cookbooks. Looking back at those early days, I cringe at some of my interpretations of gastronomy. But the creative freedom was alluring, and soon I was catering dinners and small parties. Having just graduated from Skidmore College, I spent a few months at The Institute of Culinary Education, which led to a two-month externship with Allison Vines-Rushing and Slade Rushing it Jack's Luxury Oyster Bar, where they were serving very refined Southern food. The Rushings returned to Louisiana shortly after I began to work there, so Jack Lamb, one of the great restaurateurs of New York, introduced me to the wild world of running a professional restaurant. Who knows what he was thinking—I was only 22—but I embraced the challenges of being a head chef. After a year at Jack's, I moved to London to further hone my skills. For a few months, I staged at The Fat Duck with Heston Blumenthal and the development team in his lab to create new dishes for the restaurant and to work on his last Perfection series book. Heston's exploration of clever flavor combinations and new ways of presenting and refining food had a profound influence on me.
Through a series of events, I ended up in a nondescript laboratory in Bellevue, Washington, full of fascinating inventors and a level of technology that leant itself to a huge realm of possibilities. This led to my becoming head chef of the Modernist Cuisine project and ultimately a coauthor of both that book and Modernist Cuisine at Home, as well as an inventor on 10 patents. I spent three years building our culinary team, managing research, and working to define the unique visual style of the book. It was an extraordinary and insightful journey. Since Modernist Cuisine was published in 2011, I have traveled the world sharing and demonstrating the insights of Modernist cooking at many schools and at culinary symposiums at New York University, McGill University, Paris des Chefs, and Madrid Fusion. We and our hugely talented culinary team have cooked for culinary leaders, television audiences, and journalists to show that our food is as delicious as it is fascinating and beautiful. With the critical and public success of Modernist Cuisine, it was time to think about The Cooking Lab's next big project. Having made such tremendous culinary progress during our work on Modernist Cuisine, we now wanted to adapt those techniques to make them accessible to passionate cooks of all levels. Modernist Cuisine at Home offered us the wonderful opportunity to update classic home dishes and to experiment with improvised methods that enable anyone to produce terrific results. I want to share my gratitude with everyone who has been deeply connected to making Modernist Cuisine and Modernist Cuisine at Home possible. Thank you so much Kathryn Suerth Holmes, Gary Holmes, Mom, Dad, Sis, Albane, Marcus, Mamie, Papie, John, Alina, Noelle, Jonathan, Katy, and the entire MC and MCAH teams (see page XXIV). I hope this book will be approachable, useful, and inspiring to home cooks and chefs everywhere in expanding the possibilities of healthy, flavorful, and creative cooking. Maxime Bilet
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THE STORY OF THIS BOOK When it comes to cooking techniques, the classics are well covered. But the latest and greatest techniques, developed by the most innovative chefs in the world, were largely undocumented until we and Chris Young, along with the rest of our team, published Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking in 2011. At six volumes and 2,438 pages, it wasn't an ordinary cookbook. Many people were skeptical that it would interest a wide audience. As it turned out, Modernist Cuisine sold out of its first printing within weeks; it is now in its fourth printing. The book has been translated into French, German, and Spanish. It has been reviewed in thousands of news articles. Long discussion threads about the book on the eGullet Internet forum have been viewed more than 300,000 times. We often get the question "Isn't this book only for professionals?" The answer is no; we wrote and designed Modernist Cuisine for anybody who is passionate and curious about cooking. As hundreds of blogs and forum postings show, many amateurs have embraced the book. Of the 1,500 or so recipes in it, probably half could be made in any home kitchen. That number rises to perhaps two-thirds or three-quarters for those willing to buy some new equipment (for cooking sous vide, for example). The remaining recipes are indeed challenging— even for professionals. We felt that many food enthusiasts would like to be on the front lines of culinary innovation and get a chance to understand the state of the art, even if they couldn't execute every recipe. At the same time, we realized that we had the right team and resources to bring the Modernist cuisine revolution to an even wider audience of home cooks by developing less complex recipes that require less expensive equipment. The result is this book, Modernist Cuisine at Home.
Although we kept Modernist Cuisine in the title, this new book is not a condensed version of its predecessor. If you want to learn about food safety, microbiology, the history of foie gras cultivation, or hundreds of other topics, Modernist Cuisine is still the book to turn to. This book focuses on cooking equipment, techniques, and recipes. Part One details tools, ingredients, and cooking gear that we think are worth having. Equipment once available only to professional chefs or scientists is now being manufactured for the home kitchen; we encourage you to try it. But we also show you how to get by without fancy appliances, such as how to cook fish sous vide in your kitchen sink and how to cook steak in a picnic cooler. Part Two contains 406 recipes, all of which are new. In some cases, we took popular Modernist Cuisine recipes—Caramelized Carrot Soup (see page 178), Mac and Cheese (see page 310), and Striped Mushroom Omelet (see page 148)—and developed simpler versions. In general, the food is less formal; you'll find recipes for Crispy Skinless Chicken Wings (see page 254) and Grilled Cheese Sandwiches (see page 318). What's the same as Modernist Cuisine is our focus on quality in both the information in the book and in the way it is presented. You'll find stunning cutaways of equipment, step-by-step photos for most recipes, and ingredients measured in grams (because every serious cook should have a scale). We use the same high-quality paper, printing, and binding that we did for Modernist Cuisine. The kitchen manual is again printed on washable, waterproof paper. We hope that in following the vision we set out to accomplish with our first book, we have created a great experience for home chefs who want an introduction to Modernist cuisine.
WHAT IS MODERNIST CUISINE? What is Modernist cuisine? This is the single most common question we are asked. When writing our previous book, Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking, we arrived at the term because it most completely captured the impetus and the cultural significance of the revolution that was underway in the culinary arts, a revolution that our book chronicled and is now helping to propel. Much like the Modernist movements that transformed fine art, architecture, dance, music, and other cultural disciplines throughout the 20th century, Modernism in cuisine first emerged from groundbreaking work by top professional chefs, but it is quickly becoming a strong influence on popular culture as well. In cooking, "Modernist" means basically what it does when it is applied to other areas of the arts. Modernists replace the style and tradition of the preindustrial era with a new aesthetic that embraces abstraction and modern technologies or ideas in order to create genuinely new experiences. This deliberate rejection ofthe rules and realism of the past can be seen in the paintings of Monet, Picasso, and other giants of Impressionism, whose work was initially very controversial. (The very label "Impressionism" was originally meant as an insult.) Similarly, James Joyce and Ernest Hemingway broke all the rules of narrative in their novels,
MOD.lftJOST CUIVINE AT HOME
the Bauhaus school of architecture rejected classical principles for the conceptual creations of Walter Gropius and Le Corbusier, Igor Stravinsky explored discordance in his symphonies, and Martha Graham broke with the conventions of classical ballet to help create modern dance. Yet while these revolutions were transforming so many areas of art and popular culture in the last century, people were mostly still eating the same old-fashioned, traditional food. The first glimmers of a transformation in the kitchen did not begin to appear until Nouvelle cuisine gained traction as a named movement in the 1970s. Nouvelle cooking was a reaction against the rigidity of classical French cuisine, as codified in the works of La Varenne, Careme, and EscofHer. Although not a fully Modernist approach, Nouvelle cuisine was nevertheless very controversial at first in Its emphasis on lightness, simplicity, and new ingredients, and in its introduction of the concept of plated dishes, which granted chefs control over almost every aspect of the presentation of their food. With Nouvelle and other precursor movements as a springboard, pioneering chefs such as Ferran Adria and Heston Blumcnth.il began to think in more systematic ways about how to create new experiences for diners. That desire led them to
explore cooking techniques, such as sous vide, and ingredients, such as modern thickening and gelling agents, that in many cases were developed for either institutional use or mass-produced foods, not for three-Michelin-star restaurants. These chefs had the vision to realize that because these tools let them control food and cooking in ways never before possible, the doors were open to exploring a whole new landscape of culinary surprise and delight. Through Modernism, cuisine became a kind of conversation between the chef and the diner, with food as the medium, and the goal to be thoughtprovoking and memorable as well as extraordinarily delicious. Although this foundation has been interpreted and applied in different ways as Modernist cuisine has evolved in recent decades, Modernist chefs all share the quality of being avant-garde—always at the forefront, pushing the boundaries of food and cooking. The Modernist influence is now global; it extends far beyond high-end restaurants in big cities. And it seems certain to expand further, because this revolution is still in its infancy. Young chefs are now entering cooking schools with a burning desire to make their own mark by demonstrating their inventiveness and expressing their ideas through food. The rapidly falling cost of precision cooking equipment and the increasing availability of Modernist ingredients have brought this revolutionary approach to food within reach of home cooks. All that has been missing is a comprehensive guidebook with recipes that span all skill levels; our hope is that Modernist Cuisine at Home will help to fill that need. In this book, we focus on technologies such as the sous vide water bath, the pressure cooker, and the whipping siphon in our illustration of how home cooking can evolve in a more actively Modernist direction. We chose these technologies because they offer not only new ways to prepare food but also huge benefits in convenience, speed, or reproducibility in cooking. In the spirit of Modernism, we encourage you to use the recipes in this book as a starting point for your own experiments and creative exploration.
TEN P R I N C I P L E S OF
Modernist Cuisine In 1972, the Cault-Millau restaurant guide published "The Ten Commandments of Nouvelle Cuisine" to both champion and explain the new style of cooking. We've come up with a variation on the theme in an attempt to explain the Modernist principles we cook by. 1. Cuisine is a creative art in which the chef and diner are in dialogue. Food is the primary medium for this dialogue, but all sensory aspects of the dining experience contribute to it. 2. Culinary rules, conventions, and traditions must be understood, but they should not be allowed to hinder the development of creative new dishes. 3. Creatively breaking culinary rules and traditions is a powerful way to engage diners and make them think about the dining experience. 4. Diners have expectations—some explicit, some implicit—of what sort of food is possible. Surprising them with food that defies their expectations is another way to engage them intellectually. This includes putting familiar flavors in unfamiliar forms or the converse. 5. In addition to surprise, many other emotions, reactions, feelings, and thoughts can be elicited by cuisine. These include humor, whimsy, satire, and nostalgia, among others. The repertoire of the Modernist chef isn't just flavor and texture; it is also the range of emotional and intellectual reactions that food can inspire in the diner. 6. Creativity, novelty, and invention are intrinsic to the chef's role. When one borrows techniques and ideas or gains inspiration from other chefs or other sources, it should be acknowledged. 7. Science and technology are sources that can be tapped to enable new culinary inventions, but they are a means to an end rather than the final goal. 8. First-rate ingredients are the foundation on which cuisine is built. Expensive ingredients such as caviar or truffles are part of the repertoire but have no greater intrinsic value than other high-quality ingredients. 9. Ingredients originating in food science and technology, such as hydrocolloids, enzymes, and emulsifiers, are powerful tools in helping to produce dishes that would otherwise be impossible. 10. Diners and chefs should be sensitive to the conditions under which food is harvested and grown. Whenever possible, they should support humane methods of slaughter and sustainable harvesting of wild foods such as fish. These points boil down to two key principles: always strive to produce the most delicious, technically exquisite food, and always apply analytical thinking and creativity to constantly advance the face of cuisine.
WHAT IS M O D E R N I S T
CUISINE
x ix
ABOUT T H E RECIPES Unless you own a copy of our earlier book, Modernist Cuisine, the recipes in this book probably look different from those you are used to seeing in cookbooks. There is a good reason for that: our recipes reflect the larger Modernist revolution underway in cooking (see page xviii). The chefs at the forefront of Modernist cooking are some of the most creative cooks in history,
HOW TO Scale a Recipe The recipe makes four servings, but you're throwing a dinner party for nine people. You are in luck: we've made it easy to scale the recipes in this book up to greater yields (or down if you have fewer mouths to feed). Just follow these simple steps.
1
Look in the scaling column of the recipe, and find the ingredient having a scaling value of 100%. Note the weight given. The 100% ingredient is usually the one that has the biggest effect on the yield of the recipe. Example: The 100% ingredient in the Lobster Roll recipe shown on the next page is cooked lobster meat (not the live lobsters, because lobsters vary in their meat content).
"y Calculate the scaling factor by dividing the number of servings (or grams) you want to • • make by the recipe yield. Example: This recipe yields four servings. If you are making nine servings, the scaling factor is 9 + 4 • 2.25. (You can use the weight of the yield rather than the servings to calculate the scaling factor: if you want to make 1.3 kg of lobster salad from a recipe that yields 750 g of lobster salad as written, the scaling factor is 1,300 + 750 = 1.73.) 2 *
Calculate the scaled 100% value for the recipe by multiplying the weight of the 100% ingredient by the scaling factor from step 2. Example: This four-serving recipe calls for 500 g/1.1 lb of cooked lobster meat, which is the 100% ingredient. To make nine servings, you will thus need 500 g * 2.25 «1,125 g (1.1 kg/2.5 lb) of cooked lobster meat. The scaled 100% value for the recipe is 1,125 g.
•
C ^
Calculate the scaled weight for every other ingredient in the recipe by multiplying its scaling percentage by the scaled 100% value from step 3. You can ignore the weights and volumes given in the recipe—just use the scaling percentages. Example: The scaling percentage given for live lobsters is 300%. Multiplying this by the scaled 100% value from step 3, you find that 300% n 1,125 g - 3,375 g (3.4 kg/7.4 lb). That's the weight of live lobsters you need to buy to feed nine people. Similarly, you need 8% * 1,125 g - 90 g of diced Cranny Smith apple and 4% * 1,125 g • 45 g of vacuuminfused celery (which you can make by following the recipe on page 131). If no scaling percentage is given for an ingredient, multiply the volume or number of pieces listed by the scaling factor from step 2. Example: Instead of the four buns listed in the recipe, you need 4 * 2.25 - 9 buns. The recipe calls for 16 strips of tomato leather, so you should make 16 « 2.25 »$6 strips.
Because volume measurements given In the recipes are often rounded to the nearest convenient spoon or cup ml N p not multiply or divide volumes when scaling o recipe up or down. Instead, scale die weights as described above, and then weigh the ingredients.
XX
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
but that creativity builds on a solid understanding of how cooking works and a set of new tools and techniques that allow them to cook with precision and remarkable consistency. With this book and the essential gear and ingredients now widely available, home cooks can achieve equally stunning results with confidence. We deliberately selected our recipes to illustrate how Modernist approaches can transform familiar dishes into extraordinary ones. The recipes span a wide range of techniques to give you many examples of how you can apply these methods and ingredients throughout the cooking you do at home. Before you jump in and start cooking from our recipes, we encourage you to read through the chapters in Part One that explain what you need to know about any unfamiliar equipment and ingredients. Notes and introductions that accompany many of the recipes also direct you to helpful discussions elsewhere in the book. The format of our recipes is designed to be clear and easy to follow while reflecting the Modernist approach of precision in cooking. Read the guide on the next page and the scaling instructions at left so that you understand how each element in a recipe functions. Each of the 406 recipes and variations in this book was developed and tested at The Cooking Lab by our team of seven chefs and a separate recipe tester. Although some of the recipes were adapted for home cooks from Modernist Cuisine, the great majority of them are brand-new. To get the most out of the recipes, weigh all of your ingredients on a high-quality digital scale (see page 7), use an accurate digital thermometer (see page 8), and invest in a sous vide setup of some kind (see pages 62-64). You can share photos of your results and discuss successes and challenges with our growing community of readers at our website, modernistcuisiae.com. The recipes in Modernist Cuisine at Home draw inspiration from many of the world's greatest chefs, both living and long past, to whom we are grateful. We hope this book will help you to bring that expertise into your home kitchen.
' The yield is the amount of food the recipe makes. With the LOBSTER ROLL
exception of recipes (such as those in chapter 5 on Basics) that
YIELD:
are intended to be used as ingredients in, or accompaniments to,
^ J ~
TIME ESTIMATE:
four savings (7S0g/3
\2j
cups of lobster salad)
2 hours overall, including IVi hours of preparation and 30 minutes unattended
otherrecipes,recipe yields are given both as a typical number of
STORAGE NOTES:
servings and as the approximate weight of the final dish.
LEVEL OF D l f F I C H l T Y ^
moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
sous vide setup, Vacuum-Infused Celery (see page 131), Tomato Leather (optional, see page 129)
i The overall time to make the recipe is given here. When that
cooked lobster and dressed lobster salad keep for up to 1 day when refrigerated
You might think it's hard to improve on an old-fashioned lobster
time includes a substantial amount of unattended preparation or cooking, such as long cooling, marinating, or baking, the unattended
and tomato leather add a Modernist twist. Don't bother messing
to attain Ideal sweetness and tenderness. Butter infused with lobster
with a boutique hot dog bun in this New England classic—go with
shells (see page 122) adds extraflavorand color to the toasted bun.
the usual supermarket variety. Fancier rolls detract from the lobster.
INGREDIENT
time required is listed as well.
Live lobsters
) Many of the recipes can be made in advance. The refrigerated
WEIGHT
VOLUME
f 7 \ 1 . 5 kg/3.3lb 2llirge lobsters
Neutral-tasting oil
10 g
^ p \ 1 0 mL/2 tsp
SCALING 300K 2%
by "to make ahead" instructions—offer general guidance. But safe storage times depend on the temperatures inside your refrigerator or freezer. For more details on food safety, see page xxiv. Cooked lobster meat, from above
) We rate recipes as easy, moderate, or advanced in difficulty
Mayonnaise is* page 108 k Cranny .Smith apple. 12 ' finely diced Chives, thinly sliced
for an experienced amateur cook. Advanced recipes also indicate which aspect of the recipe may be particularly challenging.
SOOg/Ulb tjioipi 200 g
Unusual equipment or ingredients used in the recipe (even if
they are optional) are noted here. We don't list ingredients usually found in city supermarkets. We also don't list equipment, such as a fine sieve, an accurate digital thermometer, a precise scale, an 11
immersion blender, and a silicone baking mat, that we expect most
4g
Black pepper, ground
to taste
Sail
to taste
Hot dog buns (store-bought) Pressure-Cooked Crustacean Butter or clarified, uncalled butter I icrpag»l22or|19 Vacuum-Infused Celery
100%
Tomato Leather, strips (optional)
2Tbsp
0.8%
ITbsp
0.8% ® Season the dressed lobster meat. Warm the crustacean butter to room temperature, and spread it generously on the inside of the buns. Place the buns facedown in a dry frying pan, and toast them over medium heat until golden brown, about 2 minute*.
4 buns 2Tbsp
20 g
2'/.Tbsp
4%
16 strips
Safety tlpt far Hghrtycooktd food: itvptKn
13)
and seafood, for which weights are also given in pounds because that is how these products are typically sold in U.S. supermarkets. 14
All recipes in this book were developed and tested by weight, not
recipe: see How to Scale a Recipe on the previous page. D
® Oivide the dressed lobster meat evenly among the toasted buns. Garnish with celery and tomato leather, and serve immediately.
leCpaftc 129
( D Ingredient weights are given in grams only, except for meats
) Scaling percentages make it easy to make more or less of a
/jJJ\ Combine, and mix thoroughly.
leup
sec |Mgc I3i
readers already own. For more on equipment, see chapter 1.
every ingredient should be weighed wherever a weight is given.
© Kill, blanch, and clean the lobsters; sec page 284 for instructions. © Place the tall mcatpiece* and half ofthe oil in a zip-lop bag. Pfctcc the claw and knuckle meat with the rest of the oil in a separate zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bags, and seal them. i±f Cook the tail meat sous vide to a core temperature of 49 *C/120 'f, about 15 minutes, and then plunge the bag in ice water. • © Increase the water bath temperature IO SS C •' 131 'F. Cook the claw and knuckle meat sous vide to a core temperature of 54 'C/129 *F, about 15 minutes, and then plunge the bag in ice water. (£> Cut all of the lobster meat Into chunks no larger than I c m / H in.
40 g
Tarragon, minced
by volume. To get the same results that we did in our test kitchens,
®
PROCEDURE 1> Preheat a water bath to SO "C/122 *f. and arrange an Ice bath alongside.
®
and frozen storage times given—supplemented in some recipes
D
Green apples and herbs freshen the lobster salad, and infused celery
roll—until you taste one made with lobster cooked with precision
.You can substitute cooked shrimp orstorebought cooked crab forthejobslcr-
( l i ) VARIATION: Sous Vide Lobster Tail ^-\ To make a main course of lobster, preheat a water bath to SS "C /131T- Seal the shelled lobster tail meat with 20 g of butter In a zip-top bag, remove the air, and seal. Cook sous vide to a core temperature ofS4"C/129*E, about 12 minutes. Serve with melted butter and fresh herbs, or with Caramelized Carrot Puree (see page 1761 and a dusting of Cliaat Masala (see page 136).
Approximate volume equivalents are listed for convenience
U0DE9NIS7 CUISINE AT HOME
only. We give common spoon and cup measures (or unit measures) for all ingredients except those, such as thickeners and emulsifiers, that must be weighed for the recipe to work. We also give volumes in milliters (mL) for thin liquids. We used both thereferencetable on page XVI and also measurements in our research kitchen to convert ingredient weights to volumes, which we then rounded to the nearest convenient division (see page XVI for details). Volume measurements are difficult to make accurately, and they vary greatly
@
Initial ingredient preparation steps,
such as cutting and grinding, are indicated following the ingredient name and should be performed before you begin cooking. In some recipes, the mise en place is pictured. ©
Safety tips that are relevant for the
depending on how an ingredient is prepared and how tightly it is
recipe are referenced here; read the tips
packed. We strongly urge you to weigh ingredients instead.
before making the dish.
) Many recipes involve sealing food and cooking it sous vide in
©
Notes provide additional information
a water bath, either for a specified time at a given temperature or
on simple substitutions, history, or related
to a given core food temperature. For instructions on equipment
topics.
and techniques for cooking sous vide, see chapter 3 on page 48. i°) Recipe tables are divided by colored lines that group ingre-
@
Variation recipes change some of the
steps or ingredients in the main recipe to
dients into blocks. Procedure steps apply only to ingredients that
make a different dish. Follow all of the steps
are in the same block as the step. In step 7, for example, "combine,
in the main recipe except as directed in the
and mix thoroughly" means to combine and mix the cooked lobster
variation instructions.
meat, mayonnaise, apple, chives, tarragon, and pepper—not to combine all the ingredients in the recipe. ) Some ingredients (four of those in this recipe) may be made
In most recipes, the steps are given in concise form in the recipe table, and then in more descriptive form with selected photo-
by using other recipes in this book. In such cases, we give a page
graphs. Usually the picture appears above
reference below the ingredient orrecipename. To save time, you
the step that describes it; when a number
can substitute store-bought ingredients, as we indicate by putting
appears in the picture, it indicates the corre-
the ingredient name in lowercase.
sponding step in the recipe.
A B O U T THE RECIPES
XXI
Refined and Unrefined Oils Fundamentally, all oils are composed of various kinds of fats. The flavor of an oil comes from small amounts of other compounds that are suspended in the fats. These additional compounds affect both the smoke point of the oil and how it reacts to oxidation.
NEUTRAL OILS In this book, we typically refer to refined oik as "neutral oils" because they can be used for thenproperties as oils without adding flavor. The neutral oils listed in the table below have varied characteristics, but several may be suitable for a particular application. Use what you have on hand.
Some oils are flavorful and have a creamy mouthfeel because they are only filtered, not
When deep-frying or sautemg over high heat, choose an oil that has a high smoke point. Conversely, when making pastry dough, you'll get the best results from oils that are solid near room temperature.
refined. These oils are useful in making emulsions and doughs, as well as to flavor foods. But unrefined oils should never be used at high heat because they quickly break down, begin to smoke, and start to taste bad. Refined oils have had the majority of their
FLAVORFUL OILS
"impurities" removed, including nearly all of
The flavorful oils listed in the table on the next
the compounds that impart aroma and flavor.
page are best used either for cooking at low tem-
As a result, refined oils are much more stable
peratures or for finishing a dish. Flavorful oils that
for storage and high-temperature cooking.
are pressed from nuts or seeds are usually available
Animal fats and clarified butter share many
in both virgin and roasted forms; roasting adds
of the properties of refined oils. These fats tend
depth to the flavor. You can also add flavor to oils
to solidify at room temperature, a characteristic
by infusing them with herbs, citrus peels, spices,
particularly valuable for making pastry dough.
chili peppers, or garlic. Never cook with infused oils, however: as soon as they are heated, they lose
Tl
their aroma and begin to develop off-flavors.
Neutral Oils Oils are products of nature and are pressed and refined by using a wide range of techniques. As a result, the temperature at which an oil starts to smoke (the smoke point) or catchesfire(theflashpoint) can vary considerably for a particular oil from one supplier (or even one bottle) to another. The temperatures given in this table and the one on the next page provide a general guide, but your oils may perform differently. Smoke point
Flash point
Fat
CO
(°F)
CO
(°F)
Notes
beef tallow
205
400
265
510
distinct aroma; melting point: 54 c/129 nF
canola (rapeseed) oil
225
435
275
525
prone to off-flavors; readily absorbed by food
chicken fat
190
375
255
490
melting point: 54 "C/129 *F
clarified butter
252
485
.
coconut oil, refined
195
I mum.. • •
290 - •-
555
r. . . - , . .
- 'mi
•"-• . |
' — mtiirm.m(hi•>•»»»»j. ijiiii.w!**! !>' — iiw.iiW-.yi
meltingpoint: 25 c^ -. — »i — — drains well
l_L_
i
230
445
335
duck fat
190
375
255
490
melting point: 54 -c/129 'f
grapeieed oil
200
390
250
480
rich infatlyacids; oxidlies ea:
30
445
330
625
good for deep-frying; maY *» allergenic
200
390
240
465
peanut oil, refined
pork lard •' - '">' Mi
safHoweroll •
soybean oil — •
II
corn oil
• i -—
Soffit
* -
i m
also called "ghee";flavordepends on production
385 -
ii
sunflower oil
—I
240
465
235 235
Hi
._
,
molting point: 3 3 C / 9 1 •«* 'inn i J>I>I»LUMII'II. i f i f ? i
—
• ..
— •iiiliii I nil n.l li.H'.l
i m.•'!'.
;• —
1
455
260 I 330
500 625
prone to off-flavors from oxidation and heating
455
275
525
poor-quality oil; tends to foam
muff n'i.nfcii.'iiijBgr-n»»jci *•* • •--
in
i . n i mi - i i . i n
MOOKRN1ST CUISINfc AT H O M E
Flavorful Oils Smoke p o i n t
Fat
(°C)
(°F)
Notes
almond oil
216
420
very mild, light, and slightly sweet
avocado oil, unrefined
271
520
the only oil here that should be used for sauteing above low heat
butter, whole
135
275
sweet and creamy
coconut oil, virgin
177
350
hazelnut oil
221
430
toasted variety especially reminiscent of hazelnuts
macadamia nut oil
210
410
very light flavor
olive oil, extra-virgin
210
410
flavors vary widely with olive variety, provenance, and processing
peanut oil, unrefined
160
320
dense and heavy, with distinct flavor
pistachio oil
177
350
bright green, with grassy notes
pumpkin seed oil
105
220
very low smoke point; do not heat
toasted-sesame oil
210
410
high-quality oil; available toasted and untoasted; high in antioxidants
walnut oil
160
320
slightly tart and grassy
Sources: Journal of American OH Chemists' Society, vol.19, no. 11,193-198; Vegetable Oils in Food Technology, Blackwell, 2002; Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, Wiley, 2 0 0 0 ; Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking, The Cooking Lab, 2011
A B O U T THE RECIPES
Argan oil is popular among chefs and foodies because of its unique provenance and its occasionally intense feral flavor. Traditionally, the Berbers in Morocco harvested the fruits of the Argan tree by feeding them to herds of goats. After passing through the goats' digestive systems, the seeds were collected, cleaned, and pressed. (Less interesting methods of producing this rare oil are now more common.)
Food Safety
Cutting boards pose a big risk of crosscontamination among different foods if they aren't properly sanitized between uses. Food on the cutting board can contaminate whatever food next comes in contact with the board's surface or the cutting knife. To prevent this, wash cutting boards and other tools between every use.
w #
LygMjM
Property organized freezers make it easier to manage frozen food and to identify and remove packages that have been in the freezer for too long.
Vegetables generally keep best at 1-4 cv 37-39 *F, whereas fish and meats do best at 0-1 ° c / 32-34 % If you can consistently keep your refrigerator at 1 *C/34 *F or lower, you can store most food cooked sous vide for 30 days, according to FDA standards. At a refrigerator temperature of 3 X / 3 7 % however, the recommended length of storage drops to three days.
Correctly following the steps of a recipe is only part of the cooking process; you also need to keep food safety in mind so that the people you feed don't become ill. Few cookbooks tackle this subject. First, it can be quite complicated; Modernist Cuisine has two lengthy chapters devoted to this topic, and that's only a beginning. Second, people tend to get squeamish when you talk about pathogens, sickness, and fecal contamination. We believe it is important for every cook (whether at home or in a restaurant) to understand the basics of food safety. Following a few simple rules makes cooking at home a lot safer. The first thing to understand about food safety is that the overwhelming majority of food poisoning cases occur because the food is contaminated—and at least 80% of the time, the contaminant is fecal matter (either animal or human). As you might imagine, eating feces is a bad idea for lots of reasons, but for food safety the point is that gastrointestinal illnesses are transmitted by germs (pathogens) in the feces.
kitchen tools, containers, utensils, dishes, and pans in a hot, sanitizing dishwasher. Or you can mix 1 Tbsp of Clorox bleach per gallon of water (about 4 mL of bleach per liter of water) in a bucket, and submerge your tools in itforat least two minutes. After you drain the bleach solution, do not rinse or wipe dry the implements or the container; doing so might recontaminate them. Let everything drip-dry. Any residue of bleach that remains will be so faint that it will not affect the taste or the safety of the food. Once a week, heat your sponge in the microwave on high for 1 minute, or toss it in the dishwasher with the drying cycle turned on. You should also stop using your dish towel to wipe down counters, hands, and equipment; it soon accumulates food, bacteria, and yes, feces. Dish towels should be used as nothing more than potholders. For wiping hands and other surfaces, switch to disposable paper towels.
Nobody wants to eat feces; it happens accidentally through lapses in hygiene. The single most important thing you can do to eliminate foodborne illness is to practice better hygiene.
You should always start with high-quality ingredients, and then handle them property. Many people have a vague idea that meat and seafood are inherently more likely to be contaminated than plant foods are, but this is a myth. Produce is just as likely to carry fecal contaminants as meat and seafood are. Berries, green vegetables, and nuts actually carry an additional risk because they are much more frequently consumed raw than are meat and seafood.
HYGIENE
Good hygiene is critical wherever food is prepared or eaten, and the most important thing you need to keep clean is your hands. Proper hand washing is not just passing your hands quickly under a faucet—it means carefully scrubbing your hands with soap and water for a full 30 seconds and using a nailbrush to clean under your nails. That's what surgeons do before an operation, and it is what a cook should do before cooking. Nearly everything in a kitchen is covered in bacteria, even if it looks clean. Even food that arrives to the kitchen clean can become contaminated by pathogens that have been carried into the kitchen on other food, the bottom of a shoe, or other sources. According to New York University microbiologist and immunologist Philip Tierno, the two dirtiest items in a typical house are both found in the kitchen: the sink and the sponge. To keep things as clean as possible and reduce the risk of cross-contamination, wash small
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
INGREDIENTS
Wash produce thoroughly, especially if you plan to serve it raw. We rinse our produce in a solution of water with 10% cider vinegar (100 g of vinegar for every one liter of water) to reduce surface pathogens. Some stores sell an organic solution made for that purpose. When handling meat, use a separate cutting board from the one you use for produce. Keep in mind that whole muscles generally are sterile on the inside (thanks to the immune system of the animal); any contamination is much more likely to be on the surface of the meat. For that reason, puncturing meat—whether with a Jaccard tender izer, a thermometer, or even afork—canpush germs into the meat from the exterior. You can greatly reduce the risk by
adhering to safe cooking times and temperatures. If you are really concerned, dip the meat into hot water to blanch it before you puncture it. Water at 76 °C / 170 °F pasteurizes the surface in one second. A quick sear of the surface with a blowtorch sanitizes it even more thoroughly (see page 15). It's also a good idea to puncture meat as little as is necessary. Wait to check the temperature, for example, until the cooking is nearly done. Because fish is cooked optimally at very low temperatures (at least in our opinion), you can't pasteurize fish without overcooking it. So when you eat fish that is properly cooked to the temperatures we call for in our recipes, you must accept that it isn't pasteurized. This is a small risk that most people consider acceptable. To store food safely, make sure that no part of your refrigerator is above 5 °C / 40 °F; the optimum
THE SCIENCE
is a few degrees colder than that. The best way to check this is to put a glass of water in the refrigerator, let it sit for two hours, and then stick a thermometer in it. If the only way to get your top-shelf temperature down to 3 °C / 37 °F is to have the bottom shelf at a freezing temperature, so be it. Minimize the number of times you open the door, and close it again as quickly as possible. Never put hot food in a refrigerator because it will warm everything else inside: a hot casserole can warm the interior by as much as 15 °C / 60 °F. Counterintuitive though it may seem, it's generally safest overall to cool hot food outside of your refrigerator. Just cover the food to avoid contamination, and don't leave it out for more than four hours. Even better, cool foods quickly in their covered containers using an ice bath or, in a pinch, cold tap water.
"Lightly Cooked" Food
Why don't we always follow government guidelines? Once upon a time, some well-meaning officials decided that food safety recommendations should include only temperatures rather than time-andtemperature combinations. This decision, perhaps the worst oversimplification in all of food safety, has led to years of confusion and mountains of ruined food. Scientifically speaking, you need the right combination of both time and temperature to kill pathogens. Why give temperatureonly rules when the science says otherwise? One can only guess at the reasoning of
parts are thoroughly mixed, is particularly susceptible to contamination. During grinding, pathogens on the food surface can end up in the food interior, which doesn't get as hot as the surface does during cooking.
Just as using a sharp knife requires careful handling, so does other equipment in this book. See our safety guidelines for working with blowtorches (page 15), hot oil for deep-frying (page 26), and pressure cookers (page 33).
OF
In a handful of our recipes, the cooking temperatures we recommend fall below those listed in guidelines published by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration or the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA). We've marked these recipes "lightly cooked." You should not serve these foods (or raw foods) to immune-compromised people.
Ground beef, in which interior and exterior
regulators, but they most likely thought that providing both temperatures and times would be too complicated. If you don't understand the meaning of time, however, you've got bigger problems in the kitchen than food safety. Once you eliminate time from the standards, the strong tendency is to choose a temperature so hot that it can produce the required level of pathogen reduction nearly instantaneously. This impractically high temperature invariably leads to overcooked meat, seafood, and vegetables. As we did extensive research for Modernist Cuisine (where we cover this topic in greater detail), we found numerous puzzles, inconsistencies, and mistakes in food safety regulations. Some have since been corrected; for example, the USDA's recommended cooking temperature for pork is now 63 °C/145 °F instead of 71 °C/ 160 °F. But most have not.
ABOUT THE RECIPES
SAFETY TIPS FOR LIGHTLY COOKED FOOD Lightly cooked food should be prepared in much the same way that we recommend preparing all food. Seek out the best ingredients, handle and prepare them hygienically, and cook them precisely. The one major difference is that lightly cooked food should be served immediately; leftovers should be discarded. The reason is that pathogens much more quickly colonize and propagate in foods below 50 °C/120 °F. So if you eat lightly cooked food immediately, you're fine, but if you first let it sit around for a bit, you're taking an unnecessary risk. Raw and lightly cooked food should not be served to anyone who has a compromised immune system.
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STOCKING THE MODERNIST KITCHEN
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Conventional Cooking Gear Cooking Sous Vide Ingredients
COUNTERTOPTOOLS Blowtorches, whipping siphons, and syringes? They're not the first things you'd think of to stock your home kitchen. But the tools that we've selected for this chapter we use every day because they are so versatile and produce such creative and delicious results. A whipping siphon, for example, is good for far more than whipped cream: we use it to carbonate soda, to add fizz or infused flavors to fruit, and to marinate meat in a fraction of the normal time. Pair a siphon with a good blender or juicer and a fine sifl fyoyfTj^h make a delicately flavored foam to top a dish. Just a powerful blender and a fine sieve are sufficient to create almost any puree imaginable. Two inexpensive pieces of equipment are absolutely essential to all Modernist cooking techniques: a reliable digital scale and an accurate digital probe thermometer. People tend to screw up their recipes or get frustratingly inconsistent results because the ingredient proportions or the temperatures are vague or mysterious. Modernist cooking uses precision instruments and techniques to remove the mystery—and greatly increase the success rate. You might be surprised^ amount of each ingredient, cook the food to a precise temperature, and then be able to replicate the results of that exact combination every single time. With those basics handled, you can devote more thought and energy to the creative aspects of cooking. ^J
Next to high-quality scales and thermometers, our favorite tools are the Microplane—Max travels with one in his suitcase—and the whipping siphon, both of which are just fun to use. Whenever you feel inventive, these are terrific tools to experiment with. And they aren't hard to find. Not so long ago, buying a whipping siphon meant opening an account at a restaurant-supply store. Blowtorches were sold only by machine shops and hardware stores. Hypodermic syringes had to be ordered from medical supply houses. But now these gadgets, and all of the other countertop tools we suggest in this chapter, are readily available in most kitchen-supply stores or home improvement centers. Their cost has come down as well, further lowering the barrier to home use. Although a professional chef may use a $400 digital scale, a $25 model will work just fine for most purposes. You don't need a $2,000 setup to experience the amazing results of cooking sous vide; you can achieve similar results with a $10 digital thermometer, a zip-top bag, and some vigilance.
Company e new gadgets you seeinydurlocral kitchen-supply store to those for sale at the home improvement center. It's fascinating how many tools have made the leap from the ' orworkshopto the kitcheru &e's still plenty for cooksjp w from the realm ofthej e store, so we challenge ya d new culinary uses for tools n't yet familiar to most cd
So we encourage you to pick up some of the tools shown here. They will pay for themselves many times over in the form of greater control, confidence, and creativity—and thus higherquality cooking.
FURTHER READING IN MODERNIST CUISINE
More must-have and handy special-purpose tools for Modernist cooks: seepages 2-284-287 Guides to juicers,filters,1/,,:1SA;
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15
paintbrush
any
$2-$10 't""^
16
coffee cold-brewing kit
Toddy
$40
useful for applying even layers of oil for baking, sauces for glazing, and for creative plating , ::;.j.--V' makes full-flavored extracts for use in cooking
Chefs are not limited to equipment made solely for culinary purposes. Plenty of tools can be adapted for use in the kitchen. For example, long tweezers mike handling food less cumbersome, and a paintbrush is useful for applying even layers of sauce or oil.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
DIGITAL SCALES If you have been measuring ingredients only by the cup and teaspoon, now is a great time to buy a good scale and to begin applying more precision to your recipe measurements. Digital gram scales are easy to find at cooking stores, and basic models are not expensive. There's just no excuse not to own one—and you really should have two: a general-purpose scale that accurately measures weights from one gram or less all the way to 1,000 grams or more, and an even more precise scale that is accurate to a tenth or hundredth of a gram.
one ingredient on the scale, set it to 100%, and then weigh the remaining ingredients according to the percentages-no math required (see page xx for an example). A fine-weights scale is a crucial tool when measuring hydrocolloid thickening and gelling agents. These compounds are so powerful that a fraction of a gram can mean the difference between a sauce that is velvety and one that is gummy or slimy. A quality digital pocket scale does the job well and at a fraction of the price of a lab scale.
Some higher-capacity scales now display bakers' percentages as well as grams. That is especially useful for our recipes because we list scaling percentages for most of them. So you could place
Be sure to keep your scales clean, calibrate them regularly (check the manufacturer's instructions), take care not to drop or jolt them, and always use them on a level surface.
Pocket scale
Standard kitchen scale
Accurate to: 0.01-0.1 g / 0.0004-0.004 oz Typical max. capacity: 100-200 g Pros: ultraprecise for delicate, fussy ingredients; very portable Cons: sufficient only for hydrocolloids and spices Where to buy: online Cost: $15-$40
Accurate to: 1 g / 0 . 0 4 oz Typical max. capacity: 2-5 kg Pros: good for a wide range of common ingredients Cons: not ideal for hydrocolloids Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores
Cost: $25-$40
HOW TO Tare a Digital Scale
Place a piece of parchment or waxed paper on the scale to ensure that you don't leave traces of the ingredient on the weighing platform. You can use a bowl on larger scales.
Tare (zero) the scale by pressing the tare button to reset the scale to zero. Now the scale will weigh only the ingredient, not the container.
When writing your own recipes, you can use the tare button in two handy ways to record the weights of the ingredients you use. If you can combine the ingredients in a bowl on the scale, tare before you add each ingredient to taste. Write down the amount added before you tare again.
Add the appropriate measure of the ingredient. If adding a second ingredient, repeat step 2 to reset the scale to zero.
If you are instead combining ingredients in another container (such as in a pot or blender), place more of the ingredient than you will need on the scale, tare it, and then add to taste from the scale. The amount that you removed from the scale will show up on the display as a negative weight.
C 0 U N T E R T 0 P TOOLS
DIGITAL THERMOMETERS Small changes in temperature can make all the difference in
better than ±2.5°C/±4.5°F, and they take t o o long t o display
cooking, so thermometers are a must. Unfortunately, they are
the temperature. A digital thermometer is the best choice. If need be, a good
not as accurate as you might think. First, get rid o f your old analog thermometer; it cannot be
thermometer can serve in place of a fancy sous vide cooker
trusted. Analog thermometers are all but useless at low t e m -
(see page 63). Our all-around favorite is t h e thermocouple
peratures, like those used when cooking sous vide. (Sugar ther-
thermometer, but a $10 instant-read thermometer is also fast,
mometers perform fine at high temperatures, but delicate glass
accurate, and easy to place just where you want it. That's
is a disaster if it breaks.) Equally worthless are the classic metal
important because the accuracy of the thermometer depends
spike-and-dial meat thermometers. Their accuracy is rarely
in part on h o w skillfully you use it (see page 66).
Instant-read Accuracy: ±2.0°C/±3.6°F Pros: excellent range and speed, with needle-thin tip; useful for
almost any application Cons: can't remain in oven during cooking; cheaper models not appropriate for deep-frying temperatures Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores, upscale supermarkets Cost: $10-$20
Oven probe Accuracy: ±1.5°C/±2.7°F Pros: ideal for cooking sous vide and for low-temperature baking; heat-resistant wire allows probe to be placed in an oven or water bath Cons: probe is bulky, leaving a visible indentation in the food; sometimes too heavy to stay in place Whereto buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $20 - $50
Infrared Accuracy: ±2.0 °C/±3.6°F Pros: useful for measuring temperatures of cooking surfaces (grills, griddles, pans, pizza stones), oven interiors, and sauces Cons: won't read the interior temperature of food Where to buy: online, electronics stores Cost: $30-$75
Thermocouple Accuracy: ±0.5 °C / ±0.9 "f Pros: extremely accurate; extendable wire allows probe to be placed in the food during cooking in a water bath or oven Cons: more expensive Where to buy: online, professional culinary stores Cost: $60-5150
If you plan to deep-fry, you will need a High-temperature ihri momt'iei i any of the lour we list IH.-M. uiih the exception of cheaper instant-read thermometers (which we do not recommend). Is up loth- \M
HOW TO Testthe Accuracy of a Thermometer
1
Test the range and accuracy of your thermometer as soon as you buy it by using a pot of boiling water or a glass of crushed ice and water. Stir the crushed ice with the water for I minute to make sure the temperature is evenly distributed.
Digital thermometers that are off by more than 2 ' c / 4 r should be adjusted by a professional. Pot of boiling water
Insert the probe Into the water. Take care to keep the probe from touching the container. The display should read 0 X / 3 2 *r In ice water at any elevation or about 100 "C/212 *F in boiling water at sea level. (You can easily look up the variation of boiling point by elevation or air pressure at websites such as www.csgnetwork.com/h2oboilcalc.ntml,)
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Ice-water bath
SILICONE MATS AND MOLDS We love silicone mats: baking sheet liners that are flexible, durable, heatproof, and nonstick. They come in three varieties: Silpat-style mats made of heavy-weave fiberglass mesh coated with food-grade silicone, silicone-coated parchment paper, and pure silicone mats. All three are useful for lining oven trays, setting into pans on the stove, and making thin sheets of food, such as crackers, crisps, and fruit leather. We often cut pure silicone sheets such as Wilton mats, into custom shapes and sizes, as for our Striped Mushroom Omelet recipe on page 148. (Don't cut Silpats, or you will expose the fiberglass core.) Silicone mats replace waxed paper, aluminum, and parchment paper with one reusable item. And, unlike nonstick coatings, the silicone can't be scratched off. Soft, wobbly pure silicone molds are best for setting and easily turning out shapes, especially those made of semisoft gels. We don't recommend using them for baking when you want to create a golden crust; otherwise, they are fine. We use silicone molds for custards, panna cotta, chocolates and other delicate foods. You don't have to heat or scrape at the food to get it out—you just push.
MICROPLANES Ask chefs how they feel about their Microplanes, and they'll likely say they can't live without them. We find that Microplanes are more versatile than zesters and much sharper than box graters. You can shave hard cheeses and chocolates into fluffy, snow-like mounds, or make a fine citrus zest. Finely
grate frozen meat for a delicate carbonara or potatoes for a crispy, deep-fried garnish. Turn ginger, onions, and garlic into pastes without mincing. Microplane and other brands have created graters in a range of coarseness to suit every application.
_ies cost about $15 at any kitchen-supply store. Maxime travels with his everywhere he goes.
COUNTERTOP TOOLS
BLENDERS AND FOOD PROCESSORS Blenders and food processors cut, chop, and pulverize f o o d
Blenders work well on fluid mixtures, but not o n large chunks
from rough cubes of about an inch or t w o into smaller bits,
of f o o d or very thick purees. The w i d e blade of a f o o d proces-
or even fine purees. The smallest particle size a blender can
sor is a better match for thick, chunky foods, and attachments
achieve depends on the speed of its motor and how long you
can allow this t o o l t o slice and dice dry ingredients. Coffee
process the f o o d . Particles smaller than about 10 m i c r o n s /
grinders are ideal tools for releasing the flavor and aroma f r o m
0.0004 in are individually imperceptible t o your tongue,
seeds and other hard spices. W e keep one o f each of these
so the food feels completely smooth and silky.
tools on hand in our kitchens.
f Muur.-no|) blender Pros: good for grinding soft foods, pureeing, and making emulsions such as mayonnaise and vinaigrettes Cons: narrow blade area can't produce the finest purees; soups are noticeably gritty if you don't sieve them after blending. Very thick liquids may not receive adequate turnover. Large chunks of food can get stuck or wedge themselves out of reach of the blade Features to look for: power (we prefer Vitamix models that can transform chunky food into silk in minutes), a wider bottom for better circulation of food around the blade Where to buy: kilchen-supply stores Cost: $50-$400
Oaffeegrind«r
Food proi< sor
Pros: makes quick work of spices compared with a mortar and pestle Cons: difficult to clean (grinding a bit of rice and wiping it out with a paper towel is the best you can do) Features to look for: power, design that allows the grinding bowl to be removed for cleaning Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $20-$50
Pros: the most versatile of grinding tools; handles dry, soft food better than a blender does. Food has nowhere to hide from the wide blade sweeping close to the broad, fiat bottom. Cons: blades spin at lower speeds than those in a blender, so purees aren't as smooth; best suited for chunky sauces, doughs, and pastes Features to took for: a bevy of attachments can save time on food preparation such as shredding, chopping, and grinding Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $125-4500
M O D E R N I S T CUISINE AT HOME
MIXERS AND FROTHERS The whisk was probably a mind-blowing invention when it first became available to household kitchens. Imagine what an improvement it offered over wooden paddles and spoons. The eggbeater was another technological step up, and then
stand mixers revolutionized cooking again. Interestingly, none of these tools completely replaced its predecessors. They can all mix, froth, and emulsify. But they aren't equally efficienteach excels at different tasks.
Milk frother Pros: good for dispersing a hydrocolloid or other powder; froths milk for coffee, a creamy soup, or a shake (see page 213) Cons: works only in thin liquids; too little power to blend ingredi ents fully Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores
Cost: $5-$20
Stand mixer Pros: much faster than a whisk or spoon; attachments and speed control make it versatile enough to whip egg whites, knead bread dough, grind meat, and extrude pasta Cons: food processors often now include a dough hook, grinding plate, and whipping attachment, making them more versatile than stand mixers Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores
Cost: $200
Immersion or handheld blender Pros: inexpensive (midrange models work just as well as the expensive professional versions); useful for many small blending tasks; can blend directly into a bowl or a pot while it is heating; very good for foaming fatty or starchy liquids and for making basic emulsions such as mayonnaise and vinaigrette (see pages 108 and 117) Cons: limited motor power and small blades make them inferior to upright blenders for heavy-duty chopping or pureeing
Cuisinart Smart Stick
Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $20-$50
Handheld whisk Pros: inexpensive and readily available; makes the large, uneven bubbles characteristic of sabayon; good for quickly mixing liquid ingredients before cooking and for mixing a batter without overworking the gluten and starch Cons: produces large droplets, so emulsions are not very stable Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $5-$10
C 0 U N T E R T 0 P TOOLS
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ICE-CREAM MAKERS Making quality ice cream, gelato, granitas, and other frozen
in it, the silkier the ice cream feels o n your tongue. If you
desserts at home is challenging, but modern appliances make
freeze the mixture t o o slowly or w i t h t o o little churning,
it much more feasible than the old-fashioned approach of
the crystals will grow. You can use this t o good effect when
hand-stirring the ingredients in a vessel immersed in salty ice
making snow cones or granitas, but for ice cream, smoother
brine. The fanciest new ice-cream makers d o the churning
is always better.
for you and self-regulate the temperature of their freezing
Churning thus performs t w o crucial functions. First, it blends
chambers. In between are semiautomatic methods such as
the fat, sugar, and other solids evenly w i t h the water into an
paddles and vessels for stand mixers that can be prechilled
emulsion that freezes at a colder temperature than pure water
enough to produce small quantities of frozen treats.
does. Second, it disrupts crystal formation soon after it starts,
No matter how you make ice cream, the finer the crystals
so the ice particles remain microscopic in size.
Commercial-style ice-cream makers (top left above) like those made by Gaggia Gelatiera, Cuisinart, DeLonghi, and Lello are now available for the home, albeit at relatively high prices, ranging from $200 to $700. They can make gelato (above, see recipe on page 370) that rivals what you'll get at a gelateria. Semiautomatic appliances (bottom right) from Cuisinart, Hamilton Beach, and others, as well as ice-cream attachments for stand mixers, (bottom left) are less expensive ($30-$70) but require several hours to prefreeze a vessel. They also generally produce ice cream having coarser textures. Oldfashioned barrel-style ice-cream makers (not shown) are similarly affordable and still widely available; these work reasonably welt for preparing high-fat ice creams and frozen custards.
12
M O D E R N I S T CUISINE AT NOME
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i f CREAM IN A FLASH . ..e Pacqjet is a very expensive ($2,000-$4,000) but remarkably effective tool designed to make instant, silky-smooth ice cream or sorbet. Thanks to its unrivaled versatility, it is now relatively common in restaurants and hotel kitchens worldwide. Ingredients must be frozen solid in special steel canisters at about -22 ° C / - 8 °F. The frozen mixture then drops into the machine to meet a powerful, tough blade. As the blade spins at high speed, it progressively grinds the icy block
r tionallysmo(_.
No churning is required, and the grinding process works for many applications beyond producing exquisite desserts. We use ours to puree savory items (for example, to make pea soup, as shown below). Pacojets are handy tools for grinding tough ingredients such as fatty tissues and nuts into fine pastes. You can even produce powders to dust over dishes in their frozen state or to thaw and use as liquid ingredients.
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COUNTERTOP
BLOWTORCHES Used property, a blowtorch offers one of the
BlowtonehesltakefoTbandy portable broilers. We use ours all die H|ine-and not just for creme
quickest ways to sear food. Used carelessly, a
brulee. W e might flash-sear sushi, add a nice
blowtorch can leave your food tasting like fuel.
crust to steak cooked sous vide (see page 194), or
fMiel can squirt from the tip when the torch is first
quickly brown garlic cloves (see page 266). Rather
lit; a yellow flame is a telltale sign that the fuel is
than cooking With radiant heat, as an oven broiler
not burning completely. Never point Hie end of
does, blowtorches blast die food directly with
a blowtorch at your food before the flame is lit
a flame at about 1,900 ° C / 3 , 4 0 0 °F. The "blow"
and burning blue. Be sure to read the safety tips on the next page
part of the blowtorch is a powerful jet of hot gas
before w i n g a torch for the first time.
that transfers heat to the food extremely fast.
BLOWTORCHING TECHNIQUE
OTurboTorch
The intense heat of a torch can quickly sear food to an appetizing brown or caramelize sugars to a golden crust. In most situations, the best biowtorching technique is to sweep the tip of the flame back andforthacross the surface of the food in quick and even passes. If you dwell too long in one place,
brown spots will appear. Those brown spots are not themselves a problem, but they qu ickly burn to black if you are not careful. As when painting, you get better-looking results if you apply Ate browning in two or three "coats" rather than Hying to do the whole job in a single piss.
Black edges are a bad sign; this piece of meat is a goner. Don't dwell too long on any spot. Move the flame evenly and quickly to avoid scorching or further cooking tile food.
Use the tip of the inner cone of flame, not the base. Closer isn't hotter. To prove this to yourself, bring your hand close to the base of the flame from the side (carefully!). Note that you can nearly touch that part of the flame from the side before your hand really feels the heat. You can't put your hand nearly that close to the tip of the bright blue cone in the flame without burning yourself. A crisp, amber layer will appear on a custard as you lightly sweep a flame over its surface. For a reci pe, see Coffee Creme Brulee on page 362.
A baking rack placed In a baking tray allows hot air to circulate below thefoodso that you C M torch both sides at once. Searing
Caramelizing
Melt all of the sugar evenly before it begins to brown, otherwise you'll end up with burnt areas and spots of barely caramelized sugar.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
I
SAFETY TIPS FOR BLOWTORCHING The risk of getting burned while blowtorching food is similar to that of oil splattering while deep-frying. Keep alcohol and cigarettes away from a blowtorch, and read and follow all manufacturer's instructions. If the food has a lot of fat in it, consider wearing safety goggles. Before you light the torch, set your food on a thick roasting tray placed on the stove top. All surfaces should be heat-safe. Don't use thin baking sheets, and remember that the tray is hot after torching, so don't touch it with bare hands. .
Butane or propane
MAPP or propylene gas
These torches are found in typical creme brulee kits. They often leave slight traces of odor or the off-flavors of butane because the low-power flame can't burn off the gas fast enough. But they are hot enough to do the job if you have no better tool available. Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores
We strongly prefer torches fueled by MAPP or propylene gas, which burn at extremely high temperatures. They contribute noflavoror odor to the food, and they sear it quickly. Look for a self-igniting torch. Where to buy: hardware stores
Cost: $50-$65
Cost: $30 Certain foods carbonize before they achieve a Jbcture you recognize as crispy, golden, or caramelized. These include foods with high sugar content, such as fruits; foods with a lot of starch, suth asjpotatoes; and foods with uneven surfaces, such as cauliflower. ^fH
HANDY USES FOR BLOWTORCHES
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SIEVES AND STRAINERS Sieving allows you to separate liquids from solids, and vice versa. Think of the colander that you use to drain water from pasta or ball-shaped tea strainers (which we use to infuse broths with herbs). Strainers also allow you to make tender, cooked solids finer by passing the food through the fine mesh with the back of a spatula, scraper, or ladle. In this way, sieving is the ultimate refinement. This simple bit of extra effort is how restaurant chefs create either a potato puree of pure silk or a completely clear broth. It is easy for you to do at home with the right equipment.
Lab sieves come in many degrees offineness.Some are so fine that you can't tell they're perforated—but wait a moment, and they even sieve out fat. They are well worth the $35-$75. It doesn't matter rf they're made of stainless steel or brass.
Sieves come in varying shapes and degrees of fineness. Pros tend to use a fine mesh or conical sieve and a tamis (or drum sieve). A cone shape maximizes the force as you press the solids of a stock or sauce into the bottom with a ladle. The drumshaped tamis refines the texture of soft foods, such as riced potatoes or butter, as you push them through its fine mesh. Our favorite tamis are lab sieves. We recommend owning three: 75 microns (for sieving fat to make consomme or to clarify butter), 300 microns (for velvety purees), and 850 microns (for sifting powders such as flour and nut meal).
The great French chef Joel Robuchon passes his potato puree through a tamis three times. That's why its texture is so silky (that, and the fact that it's half butter).
C0UNTERT0PTOOLS
17
WHIPPING SIPHONS Siphons are useful for making so much more than whipped cream. We use ours all tfie tiwe-for making fresh soda, greatly speeding up marinating, infusing fruitftfHi a flavorful juice, or topping a dish with foam for flavor and textural contrast. Whether you're carbonating, infusing, of foaittfng, there are a few basics you should know. The siphon requires cartridges of gas, also called chargers,
to pressurize the chamber holding the liquid. Carbon dioxide is best used for carbonation only. We use nitrous oxide for foams, marinating, and infusing. A cartridge holds eight grams Of gas, can be used only once, and costs about 50 cents. Two cartridges are typically sufficient to charge a one-liter Siphon. Use about 2% gas, or 8 g of gas for every 4 0 0 g of. liquid—more if the liquid is low in fat.
HOW TO Use a Siphon CARBONATING Create a sparkling drink or give porous food a surprising fizz. We slice carbonated grapes over Chilled oysters and pair rich pates with sweet,
Chill both the liquid and Hit siphon. Carbon dioxide is most soluble in cold liquids. POur in a cold liquid or add a chilled fruit. Do not overfill.
Tighten the lid.
tart, fizzy raisins. You need three cartridges of carbon dioxide to get really good carbonation in a one-liter whipping siphon or soda siphon.
Insert thefirstcarbon dioxide cartridge, while holding the siphon upright. Hold down the nozzle to blow out the gas. The venting step i t important because it replaces the air sitting above the liquid with carbon dioxide.
Insert one or two more cartridges of carbon dioxide; do not dispense any of the gas. Shake die siphon vigorously for 5-10 seconds* Refrigerate this siphon to allow the gas to fully dissolve into the liquid. Let liquids sit for2-4hours. Let fruit sit for at least 4 hours, but preferably for 8-10 hours. Don't open
Open the siphon by holding it upright, pressing a cloth against the nozzle to contain any liquid, and slowly releasing die gas. Then remove the siphon lid, and pour out the soda or fruit. Dispensing soda through the nozzle results in a tingly and foamy drink, not a fizzy one, because die gas exits the liquid too quickly.
die siphon until you serve the fruit.
PRESSURE-INFUSING AND PRESSURE-MARINATING You can use the high gas pressure in a siphon to force liquid into a solid, thus speeding up the processes of infusing, brining, or marinating (see page 132). Meat cut into cubes for kebabs, for example, takes
them with marinade or brine. To infuse fruit with • liquid, add the fruit and enough liquid to cover it. Tighten the lid.
20 minutes to marinate instead of 1-12 hours. Infusing porous fruit with liquid is a fun twist-think strawberries and lemonade, apple slices bursting with apple juice, or watermelon with hints of green tea.
Use two cartridges in a 1 L siphon. Shake vigorously for 5-10 seconds* Refrigerate the siphon for 20 minutes to let theflavorsInfuse.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Openthesiphonby holding it upright, presssinga cloth against the nozzle to contain any liquid, and slowly releasing the gas. Then unscrew the siphon lid, and pour out the contents.
FOAMING Whipping siphons were designed for aerating cream that is high in fait (Nitrous oxide dissolves much better in fat than in water.) But you can foam any liquid thick enough to hold bubbles. Add starch, gelatin, eggs, or agar to thin liquids to give them enough body for foaming. A fine, creamy foam comforts and provides contrasting texture, like mashed potatoes, or whipped cream atop a dense dessert. Light, acidic, and airy foams can contribute an additional layer of flavor. The more air in the foam, the less concentrated its flavor, so use a very strong liquid when making a foam to serve as a garnish or sauce. A foam used to top some other flavorful food may not need to be as intense. It's a matter of finding the right balance.
The "emptyTpjil t of the siphon is filled with gas, which pushes on the liquid and forces it through the valve.
Add the liquid to the siphon, and tighten the lid. Do not overfill it.
1
Charge the siphon with only one cartridge of nitrous oxide. Shake vigorously for 5-10 seconds. Resting is unnecessary; the gas dissolves quickly. Turn the siphon upside down, and press the lever to dispense a bit of foam. Check the texture. One cartridge is usually sufficient for high-fat liquids. Add more cartridges to create progressively thicker foams. The foam will release any gas it can't hold, so an extra charge won't ruin it. Shake the siphon each time before you dispense the foam. •
The rubber gasket keeps the dissolved gas from escaping from the lid. Make sure it fits snugly along the top of the lid and is intact.
A disposable cartridge holds 8 g • • of nitrous oxide, the gas used to pressurize the siphon. The number of cartridges you need depends on the volume of the siphon, how full the siphon is, the fat content of the liquid to be whipped, and the temperature of that liquid. Generally, two cartridges are enough for a one-liter siphon.
Charging the siphon— inserting the gas cartridge. so that it is pierced by the pin—increases the pressure inside it dramatically and forces the nitrous ' ox|de to dissolve into the liquid. Shaking the container is crucial to ensure that the gas is evenly distributed.
Hold the siphon upside down to help the gas propel the liquid from the siphon.
A nozzle directs the flow. A precision valve meters the forceful flow of liquid from the siphon.
Listen t o y o u r s i p h o n If the seal on your whipping siphon is faulty, the gas will go in and right back out again. So listen closely as you charge it. You should hear gas filling the chamber—and then silence. Still hear hissing? Remnants of a' previous-foam might be causing'a leak, or some part-ofthe siphon could be damaged. Vent the siphon, remove the nozzle,' unscrew the lop, and take out the cartridge. Then clean these patts anckherijbber gaskets thoroughly, arid check to make sure irialfchey are undamaged and In place.
C0UNTERT0P T 0 0 L 5
A rapid drop in pressure as the liquid leaves the valve causes most of the dissolved gas to emerge from the solution, thereby creating bubbles that expand into a foam.;
JUICERS Until recently, juicing tended to be relegated to late-night infomercials, health-food stores, and trendy Jtttee bars. But now chefs, following the examples tffat Jean-Georges Vongerichten set in tile 1980s with his jttfce vinaigrettes, are using juices to replace stocks and alcohols in recipes for sauces and broths. I Juice is a natural concentrate. It is loaded with sugars, soluble proteins, emulsified lipids And fat compounds, and
volatile aroma molecules-in other words, the essence of flavor. We love to play with its possibilities. A carrot soup made with a broth of carrot juice rather than water or stock, for example, is much more flavorful. (See page 178 for a recipe.) Or try using fresh apple cider in a sauce for pork chops. Cooking with juice is easy to do at home, whether you use one of the tools below or buy pure, flash-pasteurized juice from raw fruits and vegetables. ?jE|
Centrifugal juicer
II
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fa*
i
M**&
How it works: A broad,Hat blade at the bottom of a spinning basket both pulverizes the food and flings it against the mesh basket. Centrifugal force then expels most of the juice from the pulp, through the mesh, and Into a wtfltltlg container. Pros: handles both soft fruits and fibrous vegetables, with an attachment for citrus; machines designed to eject pulp are easy to dean Cons: if not designed to automatically clear pulp, Hie basket clogs quickly. The friction of centrifugal force oxidizes the juice faster, damaging flavor and colon Yield is smaller than its Cham pion-style counterpart. Many parts to clean Where to buy: kite hen-supply stores Cost: $100-$300
JgS* Food press ^ f e
jg-^
Keeping juice freshj ll's one thing to extractfii Intensely •flavored juice;, but it's quite another to keep that juice fresh arid appetizing until it reaches thejitable. True freshness is fleeting bedause.lhe .essential oils that give frjjits their bright colors and flavors oxidize quickly after juicing. , To delay oxidation, add 0.1%-1% of ascorbic acid (vitamin O, citric acid, malic acid, or tartaric acid. You can enhance the flavor of the juice by adding just a drop of essential oil from the same fruit, such as orange oil for orange juice or lemon oil for lemon juice, right before serving, • Chemical .changes also cause juice to brown quickly. To preserve the color, strain out the pulp immediately after juicing, and then chill the juice in an ice bath or the . refrigerator..
How it works: A food press forces juice outmechanically by squeezing food between two hard, unyielding suffices, one of which is perforated. Presses work best lor softer foods; hard foods can be softened with slight heating or adding sugar or enzymes. Citrus fruit presses generally pair convex and concave pressing surfaces to accommodate the shapes of orange, grapefruit, lemon, and lime halves. We find a potato fleer to be the most versatile type of food press* It can puree soft fruits and can juice firm ones. Pros: ca n quickly apply high crushing forces; Hide mess to dean up;
little setup needed Cons: juice contains fewer pa rtides because the ju icer compresses food rather tha n tearing it; yield depends in part on your persona I force Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost:$10-$20
Champion-style juicer How it works: You push food down a chute onto a serrated, spinning Made. The ruptured cell walls release their contents, and the juice collects in a bowl. The spindle assembly shunts pulp into another receptacle. Pros: processes food extremely efficiently; good at separating out solids; can juice relatively dry foods like wheatgran and leafy vegetables Cons: slower than the centrifugal juicer; smaller feed tube means juicing is more hands-on; many parts to clean Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $150-$300
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
fi
DEHYDRATORS Simple dehydration is one of the oldest forms of food preservation, but innovative cooks continue to dream up novel ways to use dehydrated food, from vegetable leathers to edible paper. Perhaps the most versatile, inexpensive tool for drying foods is the cabinet-style dehydrator. The appliance is simple: just a ventilated chamber, a fan, and a small heater that warms and dries the circulating air. Fresh air blown by the fan carries humid air away from the surface of the food, while warm air speeds drying. Dehydrating food takes hours or days, so it's tempting to use higher temperatures to get the job done sooner. But lower drying temperatures almost always yield better texture and flavor. That's because water isn't the only thing that vaporizes during drying: aromas do, too, and the higher the drying
temperature, the more pronounced the loss. The simplest way to speed drying is to slice food (or spread purees) thinly: less than 1 cm/ 3 /a in tRick. The rule to remember is that food sliced half as thick will dry in a quarter of the original time required. Food that is too thick can rot inside before it dries through. To minimize bacterial growth, cure meats and seafood before drying. Intact pieces of raw fruits and vegetables are likely to have only surface contamination, so you can briefly blanch them in boiling water or steam. Then, dehydrate at temperatures above 50 °C/120 °F; that is usually hot enough to minimize the proliferation of bacteria. Place your dehydrator in the least humid part of the kitchen, usually a well-ventilated area.
Fruit leather that won't stick Beef jerky stays so flexible in part because of its'high fat content. Here's a'trick for tender fruit leather: add 3%-4.5% of a neutral-tasting oil to the fruit puree. The fat keeps the leather from becoming too brittle or so chewy that it sticks to your teeth. The trade-offrs that the leather is no longerfat-free.
See page 129 for a recipe for Tomato Leather, which adds bite to our Lobster Roll on page 288.
Drying Correctly
If drying is going too fast,
If the surface remains visibly
Once the bulk of the water
the food surface will become
wet the food is drying too
has been evaporated, the food
increasingly dry and crusty,
slowly or needs more time.
is usually tacky, even sticky,
while the center of the food
Increase the air temperature
and has a leathery texture.
remains wet and leathery.
(and decrease the humidity,
This is exactly what you want
Lower the temperature: the
if possible).
for fruit leather or beef jerky.
food is on the verge of baking rather than dehydrating.
C O U N T E R T O P TOOLS
CONVENTIONAL Cooking is as old as humanity itself-—it may even have shaped our evolution. The anthropologist Richard Wrangham, in his intriguing book Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human, traces the development of our large brains, small mouths, dull teeth, and narrow pelvises to Homo FURTHER READING IN sapiens s taming offireas a tool to convert raw food MODERNIST CUISINE to cooked, which has more usable energy. When How tofindthe sweet spot of you bake a loaf of bread, roast a leg of lamb, or a grill: see pages 2-14-17 evenflipa burger on the grill, you're invoking The history of baking: see time-honored techniques passed down not just page 2-101 from generation to generation but from the dawn Cooking with moist air: see of our species. These traditional methods of pages 2-176-177,180-181 Microwave myths: see page 2-190 cooking have become as familiar and comfortable as our own kitchens.
22
So it may come as a surprise to learn how traditional cooking techniques actually work (and, too often, don't). Stoves are a vast improvement over our ancestors' openfires,but they still leave a lot to be desired in both efficiency and accuracy. It's the norm for a conventional oven to be off by 14 *C / 25 °F or more from the temperature to which it is set. And most ovens offer no control over one of the most important elements in baking: humidity. On the other hand, some kinds of conventional cooking gear are more useful than commonly appreciated. People generally think of microwave ovens as unworthy of more than reheating leftovers and popping popcorn, but as our recipes
COOKING GEAR in chapter 22 on Dishes for the Microwave illustrate, this technology is actually superb for steaming vegetables, drying beef into jerky, and frying herbs. Pressure cookers, which are ubiquitous in India and other countries, suffer in the United States from an outdated perception of their safety. We use them nearly every day to extract amazingly intense flavors and to slash the amount of time it takes to cook the components of a meal. Understanding how your conventional cooking gear works will help you to make the best use of it. In this chapter, we peer inside some of the appliances we've cut in half to get a closer look at the science and technology that make them tick, and we examine the features that are
most useful to have. We also cover many of the innovative new cooking tools available today, such as induction cooktops and home combi ovens. And illustrated instructions guide you step-bystep through the cooking techniques that you'll find in some of our recipes.
Even cooks who have modem gear such as water baths and high-tech thermometers often find that stoves, ovens, pots, and pans are at the center of the action in the kitchen. This chapter explains what you need to know about these essential cooking took.
With this little bit of knowledge, you can save a lot of money and effort. You'll learn, for example, that fancy copper pans can't compensate for an underpowered burner, and that a pressure cooker can easily transform a cheap cut of meat into something amazing. So keep an open mind; some of our most cherished notions about cooking deserve a closer look.
23
STOVES
How efficient is your cooking method? We ran tests in our laboratory to calculate the energy each device required to heat a measured amount of water. The results: Electric coil: 42% efficient Induction burner: 56% efficient Water bath, unstirred and covered: 85% efficient Water bath, stirred and covered: 87% efficient
Induction cooktops typically generate magnetic fields that oscillate 25,000 times a second. rhai can pioducv some vibration in the pan. Most of the vibration is a hove the range of human hearing, but you may hear a slight humming noise. At partial power, thecooktop turns thefieldon and off several times .ih»f.nnrl, which can cause the pan to make an intermittent buzzing sound.
The stove is the modern version of the ancient cooking fire. It is more convenient and easier to control, but the stove still suffers from some intrinsic limitations. It heats food mainly by the slow process of conduction: the heat diffuses from the burner through a metal pan and into the food. That is an inefficient process. Heat streams from below, beside, and above the food being heated. It is diverted from the burner to the frame. It wafts from the sides of the pot. It radiates from the lid. If the food is uncovered, heat escapes into the air in the form of evaporating water vapor. Heat loss aside, these various forms of inefficiency make cooking more variable. Cooking in a pot or pan is thus quite imprecise. A batch of food cooks differently in a tall pot than it does in a shallow pan, or even in two pans made of different metals. Cooking with or without a lid, or on different stoves, or even on different burners in the same stove can alter your results. Much of what separates an advanced cook from a novice is experience in coping with these variables. Hence the appeal of newer cooking methods, like sous vide, that are far more precise (see page 48). If you're in the market for a new stove top, you'll find several options to choose from: electric, gas, and induction. Each has its advantages and disadvantages. Electric stoves are relatively safe, clean, and affordable. They aren't prone to oil flareups and can't leak gas. On the downside, electric coils are slow to heat and slow to cool. To take a pot of water from a rapid boil to a low simmer, for example, you have to remove the pot from the
Gft$
lice Hie
Gas stoves are woefully inefficient at directing heat
Although it is slow to react to adjustments in tempera-
But natural gas is a cheaper source of power than
ture, the electric stove is the most affordable option.
electricity, and it's delivered without substantial losses en route, so cooking with gas Is still a bargain.
24
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burner, wait for the coil to reach the right temperature, and then put the pot back on. Gas stoves provide much better control over the cooking temperature because theflameresponds quickly to a twist of the dial. Gas stoves are excellent for quick cooking techniques that use high heat, such as stir-frying, sauteing, and searing. Experienced cooks enjoy the tricks they can play with gas, like adding a dash of alcohol to a gravy, tilting the sauce to the edge of the pan, and letting the flame burn off the alcohol. For precise, reproducible results, though, it's hard to beat induction cooktops. Although induction stoves may lack the sexiness offire,they are far more efficient. That is because the induction element doesn't actually generate heat: it produces an oscillating magneticfieldthat heats up any nearby ferrous metal. The pan itself becomes the heat source, so the food comes up to temperature much faster than it would on a coil or gas burner. Because an induction element doesn't directly heat the surrounding air or intervening surfaces, more than half of the energy it draws reaches the food, compared to about a third of the energy for a gas burner. Faster response and higher efficiency translates into less time spent waiting by the stove. A pot full of two liters of water boils in less than five minutes on an induction cook top, compared with 8-10 minutes on gas or electric stoves. If the pan is no larger than the heating element, then that heat is also distributed very evenly. Induction cooktops are powerful for their size: built-in elements typically deliver 2,400 watts, about as much firepower as the largest burners on high-end gas stoves for the home. The main drawback of induction ranges has been their cost, but that has been falling rapidly. You may need to buy new pots and pans, however, because pure copper and aluminum pans will not work. You don't have to replace your range to give induction cooking a try. A countertop unit with one element sells for $75-$250, depending on its features. These are limited by the capacity of wall sockets to 1,300 watts, but that is about as powerful as a typical gas stove.
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An induction cooktop transmits power through a magneticfield,generated by
work with induction elements, but aluminum, copper, glass, and ceramic c
copper coils below its surface, that turns the pan itself into the heat source. The
do not. If a magnet sticks well to your pan, it will work. Induction is so efficient that
magnetic field has no effect on nonmetal objects, which is why the bacon touching
we use $10 pansfromIkea and get results as good as the priciest copper cook ware
the cooktop is still raw even as the bacon in the pan cooks. Steel and cast-iron pans
on a gas stove.
POTS AND PANS Hanging in a restaurant kitchen like trophies,
comes at a price: the extra mass of metal makes
gleaming copper pans are gorgeous to look at. But
a thicker pan less agile. It is slower to react when
do they really perform better than much cheaper
the burner is turned up high or down low.
aluminum or steel pans? Well, that depends on what you mean by "better."
The answer to that does depend to some extent
Will a copper frying pan heat fast? Yes.
on the heat conductivity of the metal. In a typical
Will it respond quickly when you adjust the
copper pan, the temperature across the bottom
burner? Yes.
will vary by no more than 22 °C / 40 °F. But if the
Will it diffuse heat evenly across its surface? Let's start with the basics. All of the heat flow-
form similarly—and never mind that the weight
ing upward from beneath a pan must go some-
of such a pan would make it impossible to lift!
where. At first, most of it goes into raising the
Fortunately, bonding a lightweight, 6 mm / V4 in
temperature of the pan. As that occurs, conduc-
plate of inexpensive aluminum to the bottom of
tion spreads the heat throughout the pan, from
the thinnest, cheapest stainless steel pan produces
hot spots to cool spots.
a pan with nearly the same performance as that
You might think that eventually the tempera-
the food.TocntTiprns.iU'fnrlhp. unevennoss of the burner, use a pan having a thick bottom. It will come to full temperature less quickly, but-the extra heating time allows the heat to diffuse horizontally an it rises vertically.
pan were made of stainless steel, then it would need to be more than 7 cm / 23A in thick to per-
Not so much.
A pan I hat is too thin allows heat to flow directly from the burner through the pan and into the food before it spreads much to the sides. In other words, the pan transmits the unevennoss of the electric coils or the ring of gas flames right to
So the question is: how thick is thick enough?
of the copper pan.
ture across the bottom of the pan evens out, but
Now put either pan on a tiny gas burner. Per-
it doesn't because the pan is much wider than it
formance drops. Not even copper is conductive
is thick. So fluctuations in heat from the burner
enough to spread the heat evenly to the far edges
reach the cooking surface before they have time to
of the pan—it is just too far away compared
average out across the pan. Thicker pans and thick
to the thickness of the pan.
planch as (built-in griddles) cook more evenly, but
The bottom line: with a properly sized
they are heavier—and still not perfect. A pan that
burner—ideally one that is about as wide as
diffuses heat perfectly from one edge to the other
the pan itself—any pan, even a cheap and thin
would have to be so thick that you couldn't lift it.
one, can be heated fairly evenly.
When it comes to heating food evenly, the metal
In Modernist cooking, pots and pans are best
the pan is made from is the least important factor.
suited for preparing ingredients, such as sweat-
What matters more are the thickness of the metal,
ing vegetables, and for finishing food cooked
the size of the pan, and the size of the burner heat-
sous vide by panfrying or deep-frying it The
ing the pan.
main cooking tasks are often better left to more
The thicker a pan is, the more uniform the temperature across its surface. But this evenness •—
SAFETY TIPS FOR DEEP-FRYING
• ii
precise, modern tools, such as those covered in the next chapter.
-1.
Our recipes call for frying at temperatures between 190 "C/375 °i- and 225 " c / 4 4 0 " i . That's hot! Frying in oil can be more dangerous than other high-heat cooking methods, so you must follow some simple rules. Make sure your thermometer can display temperatures up to 260 °C / 500 T. Frying, candy, and thermocouple thermometers usually have this much range. You don't want to be fooled by the wrong temperature. Deep-fry food in enough oil that the food floats and does not touch the pan. The related technique of shallow frying uses enough oil to cover at least part of the food. Use a deep pot. Generally the walls of the pot should rise at least 10 cm / 4 in above the oil so that there are no spillovers. This also helps contain splattering and makes cleanup easier.
.""*'•! iim.i
MODERN
Pat the food dry before you place it in the oil. Use paper towels to soak up excess moisture, which can cause violent splattering when it hits the oil. Don't get too close to the oil. Use long tongs, a slotted deep-fry spoon, or a frying basket to place the food gently into the oil and to remove it. Choose a frying oil that has a smoke point higher than the desired cooking temperature. The smoke points of common oils are listed on page xxii. Ail these temperatures, oils break down and produce off-flavors. If the oil gets too hot, remove It from the heat Turn off the burner. You may also need to move the pot ca ref u lly off of an electric burner. If you see the oil smoking, it is too hot. Never use water, flour, or sugar to put out a grease fire. And do not try to carry a flaming pot outdoors. Use baking soda, a damp towel, or a fire extinguisher specifically designed for grease fires to suffocate a fire.
Sweating
Panfrying
Deep-Frying
Sweating vegetables (such as onions, garlic, shallots, carrots, or celery) is the technique of cooking the evenly cut pieces over medium-low heat until they soften but do not brown. Sweating gets its name from the moisture that flows out of the vegetables as their cell walls weaken and start to release their liquids. You'll see this technique used in many of our pressure cooker recipes, such as the Pressure-Cooked Paella del Bosco recipe on page 326.
A quick sear over high heat, as we use in the recipe for Low-Temp Oven Steak on page 196, lends an appealing appearance, temperature contrast, and an extra layer of flavor to food cooked sous vide. Preheat the pan, then add the oil, and finally add the food to be seared.
Giving cooked food a quick dip in hot oil is a great way to develop a crispy crust. See our Modernist Hamburger Patty recipe on page 208 for an example. Shallow frying in a deep-sided pan works as well, as long as you're generous with the oil; we use that approach when making the Sous Vide Buffalo Wings described on page 250.
Shallow frying is done using a pan, but it cooks the food more like deep-frying does than like panfrying. Use plenty of oil, and don't worry about the food becoming greasy. Counterintuitively, more oil yields less grease because it keeps the temperature high and the crust thin and less absorbent.
HOW TO Deep-Fry Without a Deep Fryer We're big fans of deep-frying as a finishing technique after cooking sous vide. You don't need to own a dedicated fryer. You just need a deep pot
Choose an appropriate frying oil (see page xxii). Peanut, soybean, and sunflower oils are our favorites for frying at high temperatures. *y
Add the oil to a deep pot, but fill it no more than half full. Use enough oil so that you can submerge a small batch of food completely.
and the proper tools to insert and retrieve the food from a safe distance: long tongs, a slotted deep-fry spoon, or a frying basket.
Preheat the oil to the cooking temperature. For consistent results, cook small batches to minimize the cooling that occurs when you add the food, and warm food to room temperature before frying it.
Deep-fry the cooked food. Just 30 seconds may be enough when you don't want to further cook the interior of the food. Allow the oil temperature to recover between batches.
Pat the food dry with paper towels. External moisture causes the oil to splatter.
Drain the food on paper towels. Absorbing excess oil removes much of the fat.
C O N V E N T I O N A L C O O K I N G GEAR
27
If
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Pressure-cooking isn't how Escoffier nude stock early lithe last century, bill we're sure II is how he would do it now.
PRESSURE COOKERS Pressure cookers are fantastic tools. They develop the characteristicflavorsand textures of foods so quickly that what is conventionally a long; labor-intensive process becomes one hardly more time-consuming than a casual saute* Risotto takes seven minutes instead of 25 (for a recipe, see page 328). An intense chicken stock takes 90 minutes instead of two or three hours (see page 84). You can even pressure-cook food in canning jars or in oven bags or FoodSaver bags fatedforhigh temperatures (see page 53)—which means grits and polenta, for example, no longer require constant stirring to avoid sticking (see page 336). The high temperatures inside the cooker also promote browning and caramelization, reactions that createflavorsyou can't get otherwise in a moist cooking environment. I f you're not a believer yet, try the Caramelized Carrot Soup recipe on page 178. A pressure cooker is essentially Just a pot with a semi-sealed, lockable lid and a valve that controls the pressure inside. It works by capturing fleam that, as it builds up, increases the pressure in the vessel. The pressure increase in turn raises the boiling point of water, which normally limits the cooking temperature at*wetfoodsto 100 8C / 212 °F (at sea level; tiff boiling point is slightly lower at higher elevations). Because the effective cooking temperature is higher in the pressure cooker—as high as 120 X / 250 TP—the cooking time can drop substantially.
Fast, even, energy-efficient cooking is all very nice, but it s the higher Quality of the food that really clinches the deal. Wonderful culinary aromas wafting through the kitchen while you cook may warm the heart, but those are some of the most crucial components of theflavorof the food, and they are now forever lost to the air. The sealed environment of the pressure cooker locks In more Of these volatile aromatic compounds. They condense onto the lid and drip back Into the pot, so more of the nuances of the food are there when you putforkto mouth. l o o many people shy away from pressure cookers because they are skittish about safety. Rest easy] today's devices are designed and manufactured with safety as the primary concern. We recommend pressure cookers with built-in spring-loaded pressure valves such as those made by Kuhn Rikon or Fagor, or jigglingweight pressure cookers. An electric pressure cooker is even simpler—you set the time, and It docs the rest. The older pressure cookers and pressure canners will also work, although they are a bit noisy and tend to loee steam and aroma. Consumer-grade pressure cookers range in size from 4-10 L / 4-10 qt. Lookfora stainless-steel cooker having a three-ply base (aluminum sandwiched by stainless steel), which helps avoid hot spots. Also make sure the cooker indicates when It has reached a gauge pressure of 1 bar /141 pel, as commonly used in recipes.
M O D E R N I S T C U I S I N E AT H O M E
A BUYER'S GUIDE TO PRESSURE COOKERS
*
The indicator shows two red lines when 1 bar/15 psi of gauge pressure has been reached.
Spring-Valve Pressure Cooker
Electric Pressure Cooker
Pressure cookers that have spring-loaded valves are the best choice for stock- and sauce-making because the valve seals the cooker before it is vented. This feature traps most aromatic volatiles before they can escape in the vented air. Fagor brand cookers do release some steam when needed to regulate the pressure, but they lose fewer volatile aromas than open pots do. Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: about $80 for Fagor; about $200 for Kuhn Rikon
An electric pressure cooker could hardly be easier to use: just plug it in, press the "high pressure" button, and set the digital timer. The downsides are that you have to make room for another single-use appliance, and you can't use it to finish up a dish on the stove top. Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores, warehouse stores Cost: $100-$135
Jiggling-Weight Pressure Cooker This is the kind of pressure cooker that Grandma had: loud, spewing steam, with no easy way to tell when it reaches full pressure, and with few of the safety features of their modern counterparts. But when used according to their manufacturers' instructions, jiggling-weight pressure
cookers are safe and do the job. Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores, garage sales
Cost: $35-$50
Pressure Canner These more robust cousins of pressure cookers are intended for canning. They also work for cooking, although multiple locks on the lid make them less convenient, and they are often made of thin aluminum, so any food touching the bottom burns easily. You may be used to venting the cooker before canning, but doing so before cooking releases beneficial aromas, so avoid that temptation. Pressure canners often include jiggling-weight valves so that it will be obvious if the valve fails. Where to buy: kitchen-supply stores Cost: $80-$200
29
COOKING UNDER PRESSURE when the pressure gauge shows 1 bar/15 psi. Whetfier you're cooking a stotfc, braising a stew, or fixing a pot Of beans, *he temperature of these water-laden foods ordinarily won't exceed ihe boiling point of water, 100 °C/212 °F, «!*« they dry out-which you usually want to avoid. But that just isn't hot enough to get some ofthe crucWIflavor-formingreactions going quickly or to rapidly break down the cell walls Of many plant foods. Raising the pressure gets around this roadblock*
High-pressure Steam rapidly transfers heat to the surface of any food not submerged in liquid. I
The lid locks with a bayonet-style mechanism that cinches against the sides of the cooker. Frequent overpressurization can damage this mechanism and render the cooker useless. Other designs use bolts that clamp around the outside. '.
Athigh elevations, the air pressure is lower, so water boils at a lower temperature. In Denver (elevation 1>6 km/5,280 ft above sea level), water bolls at 95 °C/203 °F. In Chamonix, France (elevation 1 km/3,400ft), it boils at 97 °C/206°F; in Cuzco, Peru (elevation 3.4 km /11,200 ft), it boils at 89 °c /192 °F. Food cooked in both open pots and pressure cookers takes slightly longer to cook at high-elevation locations, but the temperature is still higher in a pressure cooker than it is in an uncovered pot.
The handle locks as well, to prevent the I id from opening while the contents are underpressure.
Add enough water to the pot, either around the food or »«*««• under a container of food elevated above the bottom of the pot, to enable plenty of steam to form.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
tii ^rig-loaded valve normally is open so that air can escape. As heating begins, expanding vapor pushes this valve up, closing off the^vent. (At very high pressures, it rises farther and reopens the ventto release the excess steam.) The valve regulates the pressure inside the cooker to a preset level: typically 0.7 or 1 bar/10 or 15 psi above atmospheric pressure; this value is called the gauge pressure. At these elevated pressures, water boils at 114 °C or 121 "C/237 °F or 250 °F, respectively. As soon as the cooker reaches the correct cooking pressure, reduce the heat to avoid overpressurizing it.
The sealing ring, typically a rubber gasket, prevents steam and air from escaping as they expand. This causes the pressure in the vessel to build as the temperature rises. Any food particles stuck in the seal can cause it to leak steam, so check and clean the gasket regularly.
There is too much liquid in this cooker. Generally, you should fill the pot no more than two-thirds full.
Water vaporizes into steam, increasing the pressure inside the pressure cooker as it heats. Because the boiling point of water depends on pressure, it rises too—just enough to keep the water and steam temperature hovering right at, the boiling point for the higher pressure. The pressure continues to rise until it is stabilized by the valve.
C O N V E N T I O N A L C O O K I N G GEAR
HOW TO Use a Pressure Cooker Cooks who are new to pressure-cooking often use too much heat and overpressurize the cooker. It's important to realize that overpressurizing the cooker doesn't make the temperature inside it any higher-it merely causes the safety valve to release steam, which allows the water inside to
resume boiling. Repeated overpressurization can ruin both the flanges and the seal around the lid. Familiarize yourself with the manufacturer's instructions for understanding when your cooker is fully pressurized, overpressurized, and depressurized.
Add all of the ingredients, slir, and lock the id. Stirring to evenly distribute the liquid or fat is important to keep bits from burning on the bottom of the cooker. Once you lock the lid, you won't be able to stir again. Most spring-loaded pressure valves are ringed with two lines or colors to indicate low pressure and high pressure. We always cook at gauge pressure of 1 bar /15 psi.
Warm the cooker on the stove top over medium-high heat. Watch or listen for the cues that the cooker has reached full pressure, and then turn the heat down to low. Adjust the heat as needed to keep the cooker fully pressurized. Start timing the cooking as soon as the cooker reaches the target gauge pressure given in the recipe. If your cooker has a spring-loaded pressure valve, the valve should pop up just to the line, not beyond it. The cooker should not hiss loudly. If you have a jiggling-weight pressure valve, the weight should move three to five times a minute; it shouldn't dance around wildly.
A jet of steam or fog from an overextended pressure valve means that the pressure cooker is overpressurized, and for safety's sake the valve is relieving the excess pressure. Overpressurizing can bend the flanges that hold the lid tightly on the pot they won't seal properly, and the pressure cooker will then be useless.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
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After cooking, remove the pressure cooker from the heat, and let it cool. You can simply let the cooker sit for several minutes to cool down if the food can tolerate some additional cooking (as stocks can, for example). For foods that are more time-sensitive, such as risottos, run lukewarm water over the rim of the lid to depressurize the cooker quickly. (Don't let water run into the pressure valve.) Some cookers have a manual quick-release knob or dial; be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions on how to use this feature safely. Never attempt to open a pressurized cooker. Not only will it spray hot liquid, but you'll also lose a lot of the flavorful vapors.
SAFETY TIPS FOR PRESSURE-COOKING Read and follow the safety instructions in the manual that came with the cooker. Releasing a pressure cooker lid while its contents are still hot can splatter boiling water or food all overthe kitchen—or you. Before openingthe cooker, use the pressure-release button, let the cooker sit, or cool the pot under running water. The pressure valve will sink down fully when the cooker is depressurized and is safe to open. Before cooking, check that the ring of rubber lining around the lid isn't dried out or cracked. These gaskets don't last forever; replace them as recommended by the manufacturer. Make sure the rim of the pot and the gasket are clean; any food particles stuck there could break the seal.
Set the cooker in the kitchen sink, and unlock the lid. If the lid is difficult to open, don't force it; let the cooker cool longer until it opens with little resistance.
Don't fill the cooker more than two-thirds full. For beans and grains, which tend to swell as they cook, fill the cooker only half full. Avoid cooking foods that froth, like oatmeal and pasta. The foam can block the steam valves and pressure-release vents.
If the food isn't done, simply finish it on the stove top without sealing the lid. Alternatively, return the pressure cooker to full pressure, and continue cooking.
Tip the opening away from you as you lift the lid off the cooker to protect yourself from the steam that is released. Use canning tongs to remove hot canning jars from the cooker, and let the contents cool slightly before opening the jars.
P r e s s u r e - C o o k i n g in C a n n i n g j a r s Several recipes in this book take advantage of cooking in canningjars (also known as Mason jars). We use them for ingredients that would otherwise need an intensive amount of stirring, such as polenta, and for makingsmall batches of rendered fat, garlic confit, or extracted juices. Always leave at least 1.3 cm/1/2 in of headspace when filling the jars. The jars should also never touch the bottom of the cooker. Set them on a
metal rack or trivet—or, in a pinch, on crumpled sheets of aluminum foil. Add enough water to cover the rack so that the pressure cooker can build up steam. After fully tightening the lids of the jars, loosen them a quarter turn; otherwise, the pressure may crack the jars or blow their lids off inside the cooker. After using a jar for pressure-cooking, inspect the glass for cracks before cooking with it again.
C O N V E N T I O N A L C O O K I N G GEAR
33
CONVENTIONAL OVENS When you dial a temperature into your oven, it matches that thermostat setting by monitoring a dry thermometer, which senses the "dry-bulb temperature."The real baking temperature of your food is ihe "wet-bulb temperature"—What a thermometer would read if it could sweat. That wet-bulb temperature starts out low, and it rises dramatically as relative humidity increases. Yet there's no way to control it on a conventional oven.
Anyone who has ever overcooked (or undercooked) anything in an oven knows that baking is capricious. It can take years of experience to fully master the idiosyncrasies and quirks of a home oven. Several common limitations of these appliances conspire to make it difficult to get even, consistent results. First, most home ovens have only crude temperature controls. They tend to be poorly calibrated and often vary by 14 °C / 25 °F or more from their set points as the heat element switches on and off E£**-\1AJLF
L
rV
or from high to low. Their performance at very low temperatures—those most useful for Modernist recipes—is typically even less predictable and consistent. Second, some parts of the oven are hotter than others. The door, especially if it has a glass window, emits the least radiant heat of all the oven walls. The back corners of the oven tend to be quite a bit hotter than the average temperature. Even the cleanliness of the oven walls matters because dark spots emit more radiant heat than light spots do. The third and biggest problem with ovens is that they don't take humidity into account, so they give you no control over the real baking temperature of your food. Compare a hot steam room to a dry sauna at the same air temperature, and you'll immediately see why humidity matters. The steam room feels much hotter to your skin because your sweat barely evaporates when the air already contains so much water vapor (enough that the room actually fogs up). When water (or sweat) evaporates, it absorbs a very large amount of heat energy from the surface it is leaving; that's why it cools your skin. And that's why you can stay in a hot but dry sauna longer than you can in a steam room at the same temperature. Food "sweats," too, after a fashion; as the oven heats up, the food loses moisture to the air through evaporation. Until the outside of the food dries or the humidity of the air in the oven rises, evaporation from the surface of the food keeps it cooler than the air around it. But the degree and duration of that effect depend on the size of the food, its water content, the weather, and other factors. Humidity inside a conventional oven, unfortunately, is largely under the control of the food, not the cook, it depends on how full the oven is. A small test batch may bake very differently than a full oven-load of the same food.
A convection oven, such as this Viking model, uses a powerful fan to circulate the air. Evenly heated air can transfer heat more rapidly, but it doesn't address inconsistencies in radiant heat that lead to inconsistent baking. The conventional wisdom-that a forced-convection oven "cooks 25% faster" or "10 degrees hotter" than a conventional oven-is oversimplified. Convection makes a bigger difference when heating thinner foods than 't does thicker foods, but there is no simple rule that applies in all cases.
34
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Newer kinds of ovens, known as com hi ovens and water-vapor ovens, do offer some control over humidity. Like sous vide water baths, they produce much more consistent results than traditional ovens do. This extra control commands a premium price, but more affordable options appear every year.
HOW TO Calibrate Your Oven Each oven has its own personality. The one in your home is no exception. You don't necessarily understand why it does what it does. You have only a vague idea what the temperature in your oven actually is. But by trial and error you have figured out what you have to do to achieve the result you're trying to achieve. Wouldn't it be nice to add some predictability to the situation? We have a remedy for this relationship: calibrate your oven.
1
Preheat the oven. Then clip the probe of a digital oven thermometer (see page 8) to the rack. The end of the probe should hang in the air and point toward the center of the oven. Close the oven door, and wait a few minutes for the temperature to recover. Write down both the temperature you set and the true temperature shown on the thermometer.
To do that, you need a good digital thermometer that includes an oven-safe probe and wire lead, as well as some patience. If you have graph paper or a spreadsheet program, you can make a quick chart to get a handle on how the temperature in your oven fluctuates as heat leaks out the door and the thermostat turns the burner up and down. You can also map the hot and cold spots inside.
Move the probe to various spots in your oven, if you're curious. Oven walls always radiate heat unevenly. The walls are thicker or darker in some spots than in others, and some parts of the wall are closer to the burners or heating elements than others. So the temperature can fluctuate by tens of degrees from one spot to another. Be sure to give the oven time to recover its temperature after you close the door.
Repeat these measurements at various temperature settings—say, every 50 degrees. The thermostat is often much less accurate at the low end of the scale than it is at higher temperatures. You might also record how long ittakes your oven to preheatfrom room temperature to various set points; you can then more accurately estimate the total time that baking recipes will require.
TIPS FOR
Better Baking Given the many factors that influence baking, it seems a small wonder that any cook ever achieves consistent results. Here are a few simple suggestions to minimize the variability of your oven.
Pay attention to browned spots. Move the food around and rotate it as often as necessary to keep hot spots of radiant heat from scorching some parts of the food while other parts undercook.
Measure the performance of your oven. At a minimum, use a reliable thermometer and the step-by-step procedure above to check the temperature of the oven in the center, where the food will bake.
Look into modern ovens. New models of combi ovens that can control both the dry-bulb and wet-bulb temperatures are starting to appear at prices that home cooks can afford. For details, see Combi Ovens, page 38.
Preheat the oven. Preheating takes longer than most people would like because the goal is to heat the walls of the oven, not the air. But once the oven is preheated, it holds a large reservoir of heat energy, so it can quickly restore the temperature after you open the door to insert or check on the food.
CONVENTIONAL
COOKING
6EAR
35
THE HOUSEHOLD STOVE
*|
A heavy iron grate over each gas burner supports pans and also helps to distribute and regulate the heat.
The cooking appliance at the center of most Home fcitchens-ninctionally, and often physically as welMs thecstfurentfonatoven and range. The basic design has not changed in generations. But modern, professionitetyle stoves like the gas unit shown here (generously provided by the Viking company for «$ to cut in half) have refined the details in ways that both improve energy efficiency and make it easier to get consistent resu Its. |& The stove is a marriage of Convenience of two distinct appliances: a range of burners above that push heat into food mainly by direct contact (conduction), and a vented oven below that heals food indirectly by a combination of hot, relatively dry air (convection) and infrared energy (radiation). Except for a few details, gas and electric stoves are very similar in construction and operation.
Gas for the oven and broiler travels • • • • • through this small pipe.
The controls forthe burners and the oven are both mechanical and electronic on a gas oven. When you turn on a burner, the control sends electric current to make a spark, and at the same time it adjusts a screw valve to regulate the flow of gas and thus the power of the burner. The operation of the oven hi controlled electronically in response to Kit internal temperature sensor and the setting on the control dial. When you turn the oven off, the flow of gas to the heating element is completely shut off for safety.
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Gas for each burner is supplied through one of these large pipes, the gas is mixed with air at the beginning of the pipe to ensure complete combustion.
The broiler unit in this oven is a screen that « • * • • • « • • diffuses burning gas across a wide area of the oven ceiling for even cooking. It is similar in design to an outdoor propane heater. In an electric oven, the broiler element is made of resistive wire Inside a metal lube that glows red hot as current passes through it.
The oven door contains multiple layers of glass and over* lapping panels of insulation ID prevent as much heat loss as possible. But the seal is never perfect, so the front of the oven is always cooler than the back-not only due to heat loss but also because the oven window does not absorb and reradiate heat as efficiently as the metal walls do.
The coolest parts of the oven ere the bottom comers next to the door.
The main heating element of the oven is at the bottom. « As with the burners on the range, a spark of electricity gets the flame going. In gas ovens, the own burner sits beneath • protective shield that diffuses the heat of the flame evenly, much as the artificial rocks or metal plates of a gas grill do. In electric ovens, the oven element often sits directly on (he oven floor.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
m
An electric spark ignites the flow of gas when you turn the burner on Hie flow of gas.
The burners on this professional-style range are more powerful than those on a typical home stove top. This model sends 15;000 BTU per hour/4.4 IcW to each burner, throwing off nearly as much power as the burners on restaurant ranges do (20,000-40,000 BTU per hour). Typical home ranges have much weaker burners that draw 5,0007,000 BTU an hour.
Exhaust leaves the oven through this duetto a vent behind the range. On all stoves, this vent provides an outlet for steam and smoke that otherwise would build up inside the oven. On gas stoves, this vent also exhausts combusted gas. It's best to also run an external exhaust fan when cooking, especially if using gas, which produces carbon monoxide when it burns.
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The temperature sensor is usually located in the hottest part of the oven: at the back, near the top. The opposite corners; at the bottom by the door, are where the oven is the coolest. •., -.ig
Broiler gas is supplied through this small pipe.
A convection fan, increasingly common on home ovens, circulates the hot air inside. That improves the consistency of cooking by making the temperature throughout the oven more even. It also increases cooking efficiency by accelerating heat transfer from the air to the food. w;*£
• Oven insulation is thickest at the top to retain as much heat as possible. The sides of the oven are also well insulated so that they radiate much of the heat that they absorb inward toward the food, rather than outward to the room. The bottom of a gas oven requires less insulation because the heat rises from the flames.
Oven gas is supplied through this small pipe;
C O N V E N T I O N A L C O O K I N G GEAR
COMBI OVENS The combi oven is the most versatile kitchen tool we know. It can do just about anything a conventional oven, convection oven, steamer, or sous vide water bath can do: steaming, proofing, incubating, dehydrating, and baking. Combi ovens can supply moisture directly, by injecting water in its vapor form—steam—into the oven chamber. A setting for humidity lets cooks set the wet-bulb temperature we mentioned on page 34 by controlling how much steam gets mixed in with hot, dry air. That ability makes combi ovens the ideal tool for steaming poultry, meats, and all manner of plant foods. Just set the oven to steam mode with humidity at 100%, and set the temperature anywhere from 30-100 °C / 85-212 °F. In their convection mode, combi ovens can dehydrate, brown, and bake food with more precision than conventional tools offer. Set the humidity to 0% and the temperature to 30-90 °C / 85-195 °F to quickly dehydrate food without cooking it. For browning, increase the temperature
Combi ovens were once only accessible to professional chefs, but manufacturers such as Electrolux, Gaggenau, and others now make home models that are a fraction of the size and cost.
to 175-225 °C / 350-440 °F. The higher the temperature, the faster the surface of the food desiccates and browns. Combi ovens are not as adept as we'd like, however, at holding temperatures below 60 °C / 140 °F. We have used them to cook fish, which we most often prefer steamed to about 45 °C /113 °F, and to prepare steaks, which we like rare to medium rare (50-55 °C /122-131 °F). But the temperature in a combi oven varies by 2-5 °C / 4 - 9 °F at temperatures this low, whereas a water bath can hold low temperatures within 1-2 °C / 2-3 "F. As when using a water bath to cook sous vide (see page 60), the usual approach to combi oven cooking is to set the oven temperature 1 °C / 2 °F above the target core temperature you want the food to reach. Some combi ovens are selfcleaning, and certain models are programmable as well. You can, for example, program one of these ovens to first sear a roast, and then cook it for many hours at low temperature, and finally to hold it warm until serving time. The result easily matches or even exceeds the quality obtained by slow-cooking sous vide. Roast chicken comes out with extremely crispy skin and a succulent interior; fried eggs come out with both the yolk and white cooked perfectly. For decades, combi ovens were available only as extremely expensive commercial appliances. But now manufacturers have started making versions for the home kitchen. Consumer-grade combi ovens differ from their professional counterparts in a few ways: they are less precise and powerful, and they have narrower temperature ranges, so they can't do high-temperature roasting or oven frying. But these modern ovens still vastly outperform conventional ovens in both accuracy and versatility. We predict that they will eventually become quite common as they become increasingly affordable.
Best for: fish (40-55 *C /105-131T); eggs such at steamed omelets, fried eggs, and custards (65-82 *C/ 150-180 T); vegetables (85-100 "C185-212 C'F). For egg recipes, see pages 146 and 152.
38
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
WAYS TO USE A COMBI OVEN Combi ovens excel at a wider range of cooking techniques than any other appliance. But a water bath produces better
results when cooking sous vide for long periods of time at temperatures below about 60 "C/140 °F.
Baking
Roasting
Best for: breads, pizza; can inject steam as desired to keep dough moist until you want a crust to form
Best for: meats, poultry, root vegetables
Two-Step Cooking
Dehydrating
Best for: creating contrasting textures and cooking each component of a whole at its best temperature
Best for: jerky, fruit and vegetable leathers (for a recipe, see page 129)
Cooking Sous Vide Best for: cooking larger volumes of food than a water bath allows
I
MICROWAVE OVENS The microwave oven was invented by Percy Spencer in 1945, when he was working as an engineer at Raytheon on a radar system. Spencer got the idea for the oven when he noticed that a chocolate bar in his pocket began to melt shortly after the radar was turned on.
Inexpensive microwave ovens achieve their power levels by turning the microwave generator on and off several times asecond. A power level of 50% (or level five on a 10-level oven), for example, generates microwaves during only half of the cooking time. Newer microwave ovens use.inverter technology to control the strength of the microwaves directly. In most cooking situations, it's hard to detect a difference between the two kinds of power control.
The microwave has a poor reputation as a secondclass appliance not appropriate for "real" cooking. That criticism is undeserved: microwave ovens do an excellent job for many cooking tasks. Black cod turns out beautifully, for example, as does steamed bok choy. If you seal vegetables with a little liquid in a plastic bag or in a container covered by taut plastic wrap, the microwave creates enough steam to counteract its tendency to cook unevenly. And, perhaps surprisingly, microwave ovens are the best tools we know for making beef jerky or fried herbs for garnishes. The secret to successful microwaving is the Goldilocks principle: choose food that is not too small and not too big. Because of the physics of microwaves (see page 42), they heat small objects less quickly than larger ones—just the opposite of what happens in a conventional oven. The microwaves deposit energy a couple of centimeters deep into the food, not just at the surface. So volume matters more than surface area, at least up to a point. In fact, pieces of food
Popcorn was one of the first foods cooked in a microwave oven and remains one of the most popular.
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M O D E R N I S T CUISINE AT HOME
that are much smaller than the 12 cm / 5 in wavelength of microwave radiation may sit on the turntable for quite a while, all but unaffected by the rays bouncing everywhere around them. Put a single kernel of popcorn in a microwave oven set on high, for example, and it may take minutes to pop. But when a bagful of kernels are all crowded together into one mass, the microwave heats up that larger target rapidly, and the first kernels pop in less than a minute. This phenomenon explains, incidentally, why the last few kernels in the bag are so recalcitrant to pop— they are small and isolated, so they absorb the energy slowly. Like conventional ovens, each microwave oven has its own idiosyncrasies. Through experimentation, you can determine the best cooking settings for various dishes. Hybrid devices incorporate a broiler element for browning; some include a convection oven as well. Whichever type of microwave oven you have, experiment with its many applications.
WAYS TO USE A MICROWAVE OVEN There's more to microwaving than just making popcorn and reheating leftovers. Chapter 22 on Dishes for the Microwave
(see page 342) presents a variety of recipes that illustrate the strengths of this tool.
Cooking
Defrosting or Melting
Dehydrating
High power best for: steaming vegetables (see Sichuan Bok Choy, page 346, and Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, page 344); quickly softening dense vegetables that are high in water content, such as artichokes, potatoes, and onions Low and moderate power best for: seafood (see Microwaved Black Cod with Scallions and Ginger, page 348); tender meats
Low power best for: thawing frozen food; melting butter and other fat-rich foods, such as chocolate
Moderate power best for: drying fruit and vegetable leathers; making jerky (see Microwaved Beef Jerky, page 350, and Crispy Beef Strands, page 352)
Frying
Warming
Puffing
Moderate power best for: crisping herbs (see Microwave-Fried Parsley, page 354) and tender greens, such as carrot tops
Low and moderate power best for: reheating previously cooked foods to serving temperature
High power best for: puffing snacks, such as tapioca puffs or Indian papodum; puffing grains, such as barley or popcorn
C O N V E N T I O N A L C O O K I N G GEAR
41
MAKING WAVES The microwave oven is an offshoot of military radar technologyttiatBritish engineers developed during the Second World War to detect enemy planes and ships. The device uses a magnetron to produce electromagnetic waves at around 2.45 gigahertz, a frequency that causes water and otf^nolecules to vibrate and heattip.It works best«Hlhin foods that «*e nether too small nor too large. Putlhefoodin the center of Afetiven, and master the power level button. You might be surprised by the e«ellei««fi$fce5llc»n turn oufc^see chapter 22 on page 342forexamples.
Radiation isn't reaching you. • the glass door has a perforated metal shield t hat a 11 ows you to see inside but prevents microwaves from leaving the oven.
Dishes and containers can stay cool because microwaves heat mainly water and oil. So when you microwave vegetables in plastic bags, the water-1 ad en food heats up, but the dry plastic doesn't. If you use a ceramic dish containing met a I, ho we ve r, it will get hotperhaps hot enough to break. Use microwave-safe browning dishes instead.
Microwaves penetrate only • * a couple of centimeters into food. That s why f roze n food becomes piping hot in tome places while remaining frozen in others. As cooking progresses, diffusion of heat within the food helps to even eat Mich temperature differences. When food is sealed, however, steam accumulates in the bag and cooks the food evenly and efficiently. As with popcorn, steam emerges when you open the bag, so take care.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
A fan Stirs" the microwaves, bouncing them around to better distribute them. Without it, the waves would travel in a single beam, blazing a hot trail straight through any food in their way and leaving the surrounding food raw.
•
f
I
Larger foods absorb microwaves best. Small items may hardly cook at all. The microwaves themselves have a wavelength of 122 m m / 4 . 8 in. The secret trick to successful microwaving: use the power level button. If you're used to "nuked" leftovers, oatmeal that overflows with a moment's inattention, splattered soups, and liquefied butter, experiment with lowering the power.
The magnetron generates the microwaves used to cook the food.
Thick items won't cook quickly. Whole chickens, roasts, and other very thick items won't heat any faster than they would in a conventional oven or on a stove top. For the heat to reach the center of the food, it must move by the slow process of thermal conduction.
You can crisp food in a microwave oven with little fear of burning it. Dry foods that are naturally high in fat will brown because fat wi 11 not evaporate the way water does, so it keeps on heating the food after the water is gone. In some cases, you can brown food in a microwave by first rubbing oil on its surface.
C O N V E N T I O N A L C O O K I N G GEAR
GRILLS As old as humanity itself, grilling was the cooking technique that set our primate ancestors on the evolutionary path to becoming civilized humans. The ability to control fire distinguished Homo erectus from other animals and allowed the most basic level of nutritional and culinary refinement. Little wonder, then, that our craving for the flavor of food charred over an open flame is practically universal. Now you're grilling with gas Gas grills are a great substitute for charcoal grills. They tend to heat more evenly. You get the same grilled flavor because drips of fat still hit a hot surface (typically artificial rocks or metal plates) and flare up in puffs of flavorful smoke. Gas grills offer more control over the intensity of heat than coals do— but because we use the grill only for fast searing, our grill is always turned to high.
The secret to the flavor of grilled food is the dribbles of juice, laden with natural sugars, proteins, and oils, that fall onto the hot coals and burst into smoke and flame. By catalyzing myriad chemical reactions, the intense heat forges these charred juices into molecules that convey the aromas of grilling food. These new molecules literally go up in smoke, coating the food with the unmistakable flavor of grilled food. This is the reason that meats have a pronounced grilled flavor, and vegetables, devoid of natural fat, don't. As much as people love grilling, grills are hard to control. Hot coals cool slowly, so you must adjust the draft well before you want the
44
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
temperature to drop. The imprecise temperatures and uneven heat distribution make it difficult to grill food to the right level of doneness. The approach we prefer is to cook our food sous vide or by some other method that is easy to control, and to then use the grill only for a final searing that imparts a great flavor and crust. We have an unusual way of creating the intense heat that we want for a 30-second sear. Watch a master griller stoke a fire, and you'll see him rake coals around or perhaps adjust a vent under the grill. Rarely will you see him add more coals. Instead, he's making the fire hotter by increasing the amount of oxygen. We accomplish the same goal by aiming a hair dryer or fan at our coals. A hair dryer can help get the fire going, too. Regardless of how you start the fire—kindling, a little chimney, a blowtorch—the coals are not ready for grilling until they are uniformly covered by gray ash. The entire surface of the coals should be burning, and once the corners are hot, the added airflow of a blower will cause the rest of the coals to burn much more quickly.
W H I C H IS BETTER
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Briquettes or Hardwood? Two distinct groups of people swear by charcoal grills: briquette devotees and those who favor hardwood or lump charcoal. Advocates of briquettes cite their ease of use and consistent, steady heat. Grilling purists, on the other hand, point out that honest-to-goodness chunks of hardwood charcoal burn hotter, faster, and cleaner. These are all fair points. 5$ Some evangelists for hardwood fuels also claim that charcoal made from mesquite, or other fragrant-burning
woods, imparts flavor that is the secret to grilling nirvana. But once the flames of ignition have died and the coals are glowing hot, neither briquettes nor hardwood charcoals have any flavor left to impart. Carbon is carbon. Any aromatic compounds the fuel once harbored were vaporized and destroyed long before the food was laid on the grill. The fact is that the conditions of combustion—how much air gets to the coals and how they are distributed—make a much larger difference than the source of the charcoal.
BAKING ON THE BARBECUE If you're grilling large or thick foods, consider turning your grill into an oven. After a quick sear over the coals, shift the food to one side, push the coals to the other side, and cover the grill with a lid. This technique is called indirect grilling or banked grilling. But really it is not grilling at all—it's baking. Banking the coals prevents th£intense heat of direct grilling from, burning the surface of the food before the interior is fully cooked. Instead, the food bakes at a lower temperature. A grill-turned-oven can't compete with a good gas or electric oven, let alone a combi oven or water bath. But this approach has its place when grilling is your only option.
in a cooler—see page 198. For recipes using such techniques, see pages 200-202). Food cooked indirectly on a banked grill can lack that mouth-watering grilled flavor because drippings don't fall on the hot coals. To compensate, leave a few meat trimmings above the coals to drizzle juices onto the embers. The flavorful smoke then permeates the food baking on the other side of the grill. Alternatively, toss a few dry wood chips onto the coals to add a very slight smoke flavor to the food. (But note that the effect is a far cry from what you get by smoking meat in a smoker for hours.) :jk*
(But there is a tailgate version of the water bath, too: cooking
A tight-fitting lid traps hot air that bakes the food. The lid also cuts off the supply of fresh air, starves the fire, and thus lowers the cooking temperature. r||i Sear the food first, and set it on a bed of onions, aluminum foil, or some other buffer against the intense radiant heat of the coals. Place the food on the far side of die grill from the coals so that the heat doesn't burn the exterior before the interior cooks. V-V^c:
T&mkthe coals to one side.. Use a small pile that is just larger . . . than the food; you want low heat. £$?
A tray of ice under the food humidifies the circulating hot air, which both accelerates heat transfer and slows the evaporation of juices from the food. The food both cooks faster and retains more of its succulence.
C O N V E N T I O N A L C O O K I N G GEAR
TIPS FOR
Grilling Get that grilled flavor Classic grilled foods-steaks, hamburgers, sausage, chicken-contain plenty of fat to drip onto the coals, which is what gives food a grilled flavor. Leaner meats, sudb as flank and skirt steak, «ftdfoodsWithout fat, such as vegetables, benefit from being basted with tendered fat (see page 1239; melted, clarified butter (see page 119); or neutral frying oil (see page xxii). We just squirt some onto the food or coals with a spray bottle. There's afinefine,however, betweert^e flare-ups that impart grilled flavor and licking flames that burn your food. Flare-ups are stWtt bursts of flame from drips of fat burning. If the flames rise so high that they touch the food, tamp dowWthe pile of coals, close the vent, or remove some coals. §EJ •
Keep food from sticking Brush a thin layer of oil on the food, unless it has areadysource of fat that will be rendered by the heat, as do steaks, hamburgers, and sausages. Curefishbefore grilling it by soaking it in a solution that's 3.5% salt (3.5 g of salt for every 100 g offish),2.5% sugar, and 0.2% lemon zest. Refrigerate the curedfishfor45 minutes, rinse it, and then grill if.
Cook more evsenly Reflective walls bounce the heat back toward the food, a trick that can extend the sweet spot of your grill to cover about 90% ofthegrill.lt is u nfor tunate that many gri I Is are pai nted black on the inside and are thus almost completely nonreflective. But the solution is easy: surround the periphery of the grill with a tad ring of reflective aluminum.
A squirt bottle filled with rendered fat, clarified butter, or neutral frying oil lets you baste the food on the grill from a safe distance. The sprayed fat droplets change when they hit the coals into aromatic smoke that intensifies the grilled flavor of the food.
Pat the food dry before you grill it so that the heat goes right into the food and not into the work of boiling surface moisture.
Searing cooks only the exterior Of the food, so you 'II need to cook tile interior some other way. If you're cooking the food in a water bath or combi oven, sear it afterward so that the crust doesn't
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HOT AS HELL We set out to create a grill so hot that it sears within seconds. The goal is to add a great crust to the surface of food that we have already fully cooked sous vide, while overcooking as little of the interior as possible. Our first thought was that more oxygen equals more heat. So what would happen if we set up a hair dryer or fan beneath NI
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was a time when only the best cooks appreciated that fact. Now the entire food world, it seems, is putting a major emphasis on ingredients. Several distinct movements are going strong. The organic movement focuses on growing food without using chemicals. In the farm-to-table movement, restaurants operate their own gardens or farms to supply their kitchens. The local food movement emphasizes eating food grown.. nearby as a way to support local economies. Excellent goals, all of them. But they come with caveats. Some large companies have cheapened "organic" into a marketing buzzword by lobbying for loopholes in government regulations. Cooks must actively seek out small, artisanal producers growing heirloom varieties -; to benefit from the original intent. The local movement suggests that food grown nearby, not shipped across the country, is better for the planet. Sometimes that's true. But in other cases, local production of certain crops is actually more energy-intensive than efficient production in another region, even when you add in the effects of transportation. Fortunately, we have access to enough information these days to be able to make well-informed choices. What you do with it is a personal decision. We're strong believers in using every available tool and ingredient to make eating a richer, more diverse, and more stimulating experience. So we love that a cook in the Midwest can easily find chocolates from Ecuador, bananas from Brazil, or rice candies from China. That's amazing. At the same time, it's wonderful to see people embracing local ingredients. There's a whole other category of ingredients that we think chefs could add to their pantry. Modern ingredients, such as xanthan gum
powders), allow the creative cook to achieve certain results that were previously unobtainable. Take, for example, our Mac and Cheese recipe on page 310. Normally when you melt cheese, ft separates into greasy clumps. Cooks typically add a lot of flour or cornstarch to keep the cheese smooth as it melts, but that just creates a gluey texture and dulls the flavor. We use sodium citrate instead. With that small change, the dish takes on the cleanest, brightest ffieese flavbTi; of any mac and cheese we've ever had. It has proved to be one of the most popular recipes from Modernist Cuisine. There's nothing alien about sodium citrate: it is simply a salt made with citric acid from citrus fruit. Most Modernist ingredients have natural origins, as illustrated on the next page. They are produced in much the same way as traditional refined ingredients, such as flour, yeast, sugar, and baking soda. ^255 2y§« If some ingredients in this book seem weird, it's just because you're not used to them—yet. The goal of this chapter is to make you more familiar and comfortable with a wider set of ingredients. That includes fresh produce from your local farmers' market, unfamiliar ingredients from international markets, specialty items available for order online, and Modernist ingredients that allow you to prepare dishes you couldn't make any other way.
Another movement in food gravitates toward 'authentic" foods that come only from a specific region. The Copenhagen restaurant Noma, for example, is famous for using ingredients only from Scandinavia (which requires great creativity in the middle of winter). The concept is admirable—except thai, broadly speaking, few foods are truly authentic to just one location. Case in point: the best wheat in the world for making pasta thrives in places that have cold winters.^2 Most Italian pasta is thus made from Canadian wheat. Does that mean it's not authentic Italian food? And in* any regional cuisine, many of the ingredients and dishes were borrowed long ago from somewhere else. The Chinese ate noodles at least 3,000 years before the Italians did. Today you can find geoduck on the menus of manyfinerestaurants in Asia, but this unusually large variety of clam has been harvested for centuries by Native Americans in the Pacific Northwest. -
FURTHER READING IN MODERNIST CUISINE
•
The origin and history of Modernist ingredients: seepages 1-2S0-2S8 How to handle food safely like a pro: seepages L16S-19S Guides to using flavor enhancers, acidifiers, alcohols, essences, and extracts: see pages 2 312,314,317,324-326 ||| The properties and uses of thickening and getting agents: see pages 4-28-30,42-47
UNUSUAL INGREDIENTS Modernist chefs have added a growing number of foods to their pantries, and these new ingredients are enabling amazing creativity in the kitchen. But some people feel suspicious of ingredients with unfamiliar names, such as agar and xanthan gum. We are frequently
N-Zorbit
Whey Protein Isolate
What itis: tapioca mal to dextrin Derived from: tapioca Used to: turn fats into powders Where to buy: online Cost: $7 for 50 g Try it in: Fish Spice Mix (see page 137), other spice blends
Whatitis:milk protein Derived from: cow's milk Used to: odd texture when foaming liquids Where to buy: grocery and health-food stores Cofb $6 for 50 g Try it in: Clams in Chowder Sauce (see page 292), Ultrafrothy Milk Shake (see page 213)
asked, "AftSn't your dishes chock-full of chemicals?" Well, yes-all foods, including the most natural and organic, are composed tif chemicals. But nearly all of these chemicals are derived froth natural ingredients or processes, and many have been used for decades. They are no more harmful than table salt (also known as sodium chloride). Agar, for example, is a white powder much like gelatin, but agar has a higher melting point and is extracted from seaweed rather than from pig hides or fish bones. Which is the weirder one! Although dozens of Modernist ingredients like those shown
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here are now available, we selected only a handful for the recipes
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in this book. A few of these ingredients are available at supermarkets, health-food stores, or brewing-supply stores. Others are most easily purchased online: see Scientific Ingredients, page XXII, for a selection of vendors.
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Xanthan Gum
What it is: powdered wheat protein Derived from: wheat Used to: add structure to yeast bread Where to buy: online or in grocery stores Cost: $7 for 624 g Try it in: Neapolitan Pizza Dough (see page 296), Fresh Egg Noodles (see page 26B)
What it is: a naturally occurring carbohydrate Derived from: ferment at ion of sugars Used to: thicken liquids and stabilize emulsions Where to buy: grocery stores Cost:$15for45()g Try it in: Pistachio Pesto (see page 102), Pistachio Geiato (see page 370), Tomato
Leather (see page 129)
Wondra What It is: a precooked flour De rived fro m: Wheat Used to: thicken without adding flavor Where to buy: grocery stores Cost: $2 for 397 g Try it in: Creamed Spinach (see page 199), Stilton Cheese Slice (see variation on page 319), Crispy Chicken Wings, Korean-
Style (see page 252), Tsukune (see page 263)
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Monosodium Gfutamate
Insta Cure #1
Diastatic Malt Powder (not shown)
What I t is: a silt of an amino acid
W h a t it is: a blend of salt and sodium
What it is: malted grain containing active
Derived from: fermentation of beets,
nitrite, plus safety coloring
enzymes
sugar cane, or other sugar-rich foods
Derived f r o m : salt, soda ash, or other
Derived from: grains
Used to: add umami flavoring
sources of nitrogen
Used to: convert starches to sugars; rising
W h e r e t o buy: grocery stores
Used to: cure meats, add pink color
agent for doughs
Cost: $2 for 57 g
W h e r e to buy: butcher or sausage-
Where to buy: online
Try it in: Aromatic Chicken Broth
making supply stores
Cost: $2 for 4 5 0 g
(see page 266)
Cost: $6 for 4 5 0 g
Try it in: Modernist Vichyssoise
Try it in: Pork Belly B.L.T. (see page 232)
(see page 162)
| Some people strongly believe that the.y react badiy to MSG, but so far no scientific study has ever linked MSG consumption to health problems.
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Albumin Powder W h a t it is: powdered egg white Derived f r o m : eggs Used to: make flavorful gels and foams
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W h e r e to buy: grocery and kitchen-supply stores GOLDEN CONS —
Cost: $7 for 142 g
Agar Agar Powder
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Try it in: Striped Mushroom Omelet (see page 148),
Agar
Ultrafrothy Milk Shake (see page 213)
What it is: a naturafly occurring polysaccharide
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Derived from: red seaweed.
Dessert
Used to: thicken and gel liquids W h e r e t o buy: online and in grocery stores Cost: $15 for 450 g Try it in: Onion Fluid Gel (see page 100), Vegetarian Panna Cotta (see variation on page 366) Net Wt T^di Net 4 o:l I70|)
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Derived from: fruits Used to: add extreme tartness; often
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Try it in: Fruit Minestrone (see page 158), Vacuum-Infused b*4SoW»*CM**b*i|
Celery (see page 131), PressureCaramelized Ketchup (see page 110)
Liquid Soy Lecithin
Sodium Citrate
What it is: a naturally occurring phospholipid
W h a t it is: a salt of citric acid
Derived from: soybeans
Derived f r o m : citrus fruits
Used to: emulsify liquids
Used to: keep cheese from separating
Where to buy: health-food stores
Where to buy: online or in health-food stores
Cost: $15 for 567 g
Cost: $6 for 5 0 g Try it in: Mac and Cheese (see pages 310-313)
Try it in: Home jus Cras (see page 93), Modernist Vinaigrette (see page 117)
INGREDIENTS
Some health-food stores and pharmacies sell malic acid nutritional supplements; these are not the same as malic acid powder and will not work in recipes.
NOT YOUR PARENTS' SUPERMARKET Since the invention of the self-service grocery store in 1916
supermarkets. But if you're interested in adding diversity to
by a small shop in Memphis that grew to become the Piggly
your cooking and your palate, venture outside that aisle shop-
Wiggly chain, most people have bought their groceries at
ping and wander into other kinds of f o o d purveyors.
Farmers' Markets
Nearly every community now has a farmers' market. In the Seattle area, where we live, the Pike Place Market has been going strong for generations. But we go less frequently than we used to because small farmers
now also gather for a weekly market closer to us in Bellevue, Washington, a city of less than 125,000 people. If you're not aware of a market in your area, ask around—there probably is one.
Warehouse Stores
Sustainable Aquaculture Farms
Surprisingly, shopping clubs such as Costco, Sam's Club, and PriceSmart often offer unique seasonal ingredients in bulk quantities at a fraction of the usual cost. We've seen green chickpeas and wild salmon here in Seattle; New Yorkers might find beautiful scallops.
Marine wildlife is dwindling at an alarming pace, and conventional fish farms have developed a reputation for causing ecological harm. But sustainable forms of aquaculture are now in operation. You can buy sustainably farmedfishand shellfish online and at specialty retailers (see page XIX for sources).
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Internet Vendors Sometimes the cheapest'—or only—way to buy specialty items is to get them online. Shipping is a small percentage of the cost for small, light items such as spices (see page XIX for sources). Websites for professional chefs, such as chefrubber.com and le-sanciuaire.com, are good sources of modern gelling agents and thickeners, as well as exotic baking ingredients. Check the reviews on food forums, such as egullet.org, to find out which products work the best.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
V-.'vialty Markets
Shop owners who specialize offer higher-quality products, hard-to-find ingredients, and more knowledgeable service. At specialty shops, you can find intriguing imports, such as complex olive oils from Liguria, Italy, potent
fruit vinegars from the southwest of France, aged cheeses from all over the world, and artisan-cured meats, such as the Iberico ham shown above. The shops are often an outlet for boutique food producers from the local area.
Local Butchers
Food scientists, chefs, and ethicists all agree that the best-quality meat comes from animals that are raised healthy and slaughtered humanely. The scientific reason is that stress causes animals to release hormones
that negatively affect the texture and taste of the resulting meat. Local and artisanal butchers make an effort to find the best suppliers. Some online sources allow you to buy directly from the farmer (see page XIX).
Crowing Your Own Food Millions of people are rediscovering something we've known for a long time: if you grow your own food, you can eat it at the peak of its perfection. That is why there are probably more chefs running farms now than at any point in history. You can start small—all you really need is a burlap sack, soil, and seeds.
Where can you find the best ingredients? Good local restaurants are an excellent source of knowledge. The Internet can also help you find things in your own community as well as on the other side of the world.
INGREDIENTS
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73
TAKE A WALK ON THE WILD SIDE Globalization has caused an explosion of culinary diversity in cities and towns of all sizes. Taco stands and sushi bars are now ubiquitous, and people are also increasingly aware of regional culinary nuances, such as the differences among Thai, Vietnamese, and Malaysian foods.
outside of your comfort zone and try ingredients that are unfamiliar. No matter what your food tradition, there are plenty of others to sample.
Immigrants who carried their culinary traditions with them have created a demand for specialty markets that serve the needs of particular ethnic communities. But these markets also provide wonderful opportunities for locals to experience new foods and taste other cultures. We encourage you to step
Accept at the outset that you won't like everything you try. That's okay. Learning to enjoy strong tastes, strong odors, or unfamiliar textures takes a certain amount of practice. If you are open to experimentation, and you taste without expectation, you will discover new flavors you love, but never knew existed. We use some of the ingredients listed below m the recipes in this book; the others are simply among our favorites.
Japanese Markets
Indian Markets
A good source for: white soy sauce, matcha (powdered green tea), genmaicha (green tea with toasted brown rice), aged rice vinegar, sake, miso, natto (fermented soybeans), preserved cherry blossoms, black sesame paste, Kewpie brand mayonnaise, shichimi (chili spice mix), dried baby sardines and crabs, bonito flakes, kombu and nori (dried seaweed), fresh wasabi, kinome (prickly ash) leaves, myoga (ginger bud), maitake and enoki mushrooms, satsuma-imo and Okinawan sweet potatoes, kabocha squash,/t//w and hachiya persimmons, yuzu (Japanese citrus), short-grain rice varieties, quail eggs, sea urchin, sashimi-quality seafood
A good source for: mustard oil; ghee; whole spices such as Ceylon cinnamon, nutmeg, ajowan, cardamom, coriander, cumin, mace, and mustard seeds; black salt; saffron; orange blossom water and rose water; fresh and dried chilies; amchoor (dried sour mango); anardano (dried pomegranate); alubukhara (dried sour plums); preserved black lime; raw cashews; fresh turmeric, chickpeas, and coconut; curry and fenugreek leaves; snake beans; Indian eggplants; red bananas; tamarind; various pickles; long-grain rice varieties; black and yellow lentils; breads such as papadums and parotha; flours and mixes for dosa, chapati, and idU
Chinese Markets A good source for: dried fermented black beans, toasted-sesame oil, Shaoxing and michiu wines, dried lily buds and orange peel, Sichuan pepper and chilies, black fungus, cassia, licorice root, chrysanthemum leaves, lotus root, taro root, peavines, lychees, longan fruit, red dates, bitter and winter melons, daikon radishes, Chinese eggplant, freshwater chestnuts, river potatoes, garlic chives, fresh bamboo shoots, saltpreserved duck eggs, lap cheong (Chinese sausage), fresh duck, offal, tofu
74
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Southeast Asian M a r k e t s
Latin American Markets
A good source for: fish sauce, shrimp paste, dried shrimp, chili sauces and spice pastes, preserved turnips, palm sugar, coconut cream, star anise, galangal root, mangosteen and durian fruit, lemongrass, Thai eggplant, betel and Makrud lime leaves, straw mushrooms, baby corn, ngo om (rice paddy herb), fresh coconut, roasted rice flour, tapioca starch
A good source for: fresh masa harina; crema; Cotija cheese and queso fresco; fresh banana leaves; tomatillos; nopales (cactus paddles); epazote (herb); avocado leaves; Mexican oregano; fresh and dried chilies such as poblano,pt//a, and guajillo; dried corn husks and chamomile; hot sauces; chicharrones; fresh lard; pork skin; beef tongue
Korean Markets
Middle Eastern and African Markets
A good source for: ssamjang (spice condiment), gochujang (fermented chili paste), kimchi and other fermented vegetables, black garlic, preserved seaweed, dried ferns and seafood, duk (soft rice cakes), chili threads, bean sprouts, negi (giant scallions), fragrant pears, taro, mung bean flour, monosodium glutamate (MSG), oxtails, fresh pork belly
A good source for: palm oil; harissa (chili sauce); grains such as teff, fonio, millet, bulgur, and sorghum; egusi (gourd), baobab, and ogbono (bush mango) seeds; kola, cashew, and palm nuts; dates; green bananas; cassava; taro; okra; guava; injera flatbread; ouarka pastry sheets; couscous; plantain;mahlab (cherrystonespice); preserved lemons; dried roses; bush mint; grains of paradise; fresh goat
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FORAGED FOODS: AUTUMN AND SPRING Modernist chefs such as Marc Veyrat, Rene Redzepi, and David Kinch have helped create a burgeoning movement of cooking with obscure wild ingredients. Now cooks at all levels have been discovering that foraging for wild ingredients presents a whole new realm of possibilities. Each season brings an array of wild edibles. Here in the Pacific Northwest, autumn is the season of mushrooms: porcinis, black trumpets, matsutake, hedgehogs, lobster mushrooms, and many others (pictured above). Winter is a slow time for foraging, but wild mushrooms are still available in some areas. Oxalis (wood sorrel), morels, stinging nettles, and ficldlehead ferns sprout in (D pine ® black truffle (3) fried chicken mushroom 0 sea bean (f) maitake mushroom
© wild currants
(D black trumpets
78
M O D E R N I S T CUISINE AT HOME
® yellow foot chanterelle (D @ © @
stinging nettles golden chanterelles lichen cauliflower mushroom
® matsutake mushroom (pine mushroom)
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the spring (pictured above), as do ramps (wild leeks), garlic, and asparagus. Summer brings chanterelles, purslane, miner's lettuce, and wild berries ripe for the picking. Each region offers its own menu of native wild foods. Before you go on your own foraging excursions, pick up a good guide, such as Bradford Angier's Field Guide to Edible Wild Plants, to steer you toward the delicacies and away from the dangers. Some mushrooms, in particular, can be quite toxic, so be sure to check with a knowledgeable expert before making a mushroom omelet after a hike!
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© garlic shoots
® wild licorice ® miner's lettuce © stinging nettles
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© chickweed © hedgehog mushrooms
INGREDIENTS
morels fiddlehead Lady ferns gray chanterelles wild watercress purple asparagus
79
THE RECIPES
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295
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308
204
Risotto and Paella
320
217
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Braised Short Ribs
226
Dishes for the Microwave
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Custards and Pies
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BASICS Virtually all good cooking rests on a core set of basics— those fundamental prepared ingredients you routinely keep on hand in your pantry and refrigerator. There are, after all, only so many ways to cook meats, vegetables, and grains. It is through the stocks and sauces, the infused oils and emulsions, the gravies and glazes that you express your creativity and make a dish your own. That little extra flavor or a novel aroma can turn an ordinary meal into something special. As you make recipes in other parts of this book, you'll find that they often incorporate the building blocks collected in this chapter. The recipes steer you back here because we consider these basic elements to be intrinsic parts of the flavor and refinement of those dishes. It is, admittedly, more time-consuming to make a recipe when some of the ingredients involve recipes of their own. When you don't have time, you can always use water instead of stock, or store-bought ketchup in place of homemade. But it is worth the effort to make your own once in a while. We have, wherever possible, suggested methods that are fast, such as pressure-cooking, or that can be left mostly unattended, such as cooking sous vide. You can also make large batches and freeze them so that they are handy when time is short. The best thing about these basics is their versatility. When you pressure-render chicken fat for Home Jus Gras (see page 93) or make a carotene butter for Caramelized Carrot Soup (see page 178), taste the result by itself and
imagine other applications. Also try combining techniques from throughout the book. If you make a cream infused with cinnamon and vanilla, as described in the Custards and Pies chapter (see page 358), you can pop it in a whipping siphon, store it in the fridge, and use it on your morning pancakes. Each recipe in this chapter may, along the way, also teach you something about cooking. Take pesto, for example. A conventional pesto eventually separates into coarse solids floating on watery liquid, with a big slick of oil on top. But if you add a small amount of xanthan gum, the liquid stays creamy and cohesive. Just one pinch of powder produces a beautifully homogenized pesto (seepage 102). Or consider hollandaise, that unctuous mixture of warm egg yolks and butter. The sauce is so fragile because butter congeals and separates as soon as it cools. But we show you how to avoid that problem by putting the sauce in a whipping siphon; you no longer have to make hollandaise at the last minute while pulling together all the other parts of a meal. The stock recipes contain useful insights, too. A pressure cooker is the best tool for the job because it concentrates all the aromas released by the delicate ingredients. You don't smell them while you're cooking because they stay in the food instead of vaporizing into the air. These are just a few examples of the dozens of foundational recipes in this chapter that are not only approachable and versatile but very tasty, too.
H
Stocks, seepage 84
Spice Mixes, see page 135 Condiments, see page 124
M
•*
VARIATION: Brown Fish Stock After step 3, panfry the fish bones in 30 g / 3 0 mL/2 Tbsp of neutral frying oil until they brown, 4-6 minutes. Cool the bones completely, and then continue with step 4.
Use only the freshest leanfishfor stock.
STOCKS
87
PRESSURE-COOKED CRUSTACEAN STOCK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:
J J kg/4V2 cups lVz hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 1 hour unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker; shells of lobsters, crabs, or shrimp (or whole shrimp with heads on) Forbidden Rice with Squid Ink and Sous Vide Clams (see variation on page 330), Shrimp and Grits (see page 338), Thai Soup (see variation on page 267)
Anytime you find yourself with crustacean shells left over from a seafood feast, save them! Collect them in the freezer until you have INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
Shells of lobsters, crabs, crayfish, shrimp, or prawns
650g/1.4lb from 2 lobsters of shells or or 2 large crabs 650g/1.4lb of whole shrimp
Clarified, unsalted butter 50 g or neutral-tasting oil
VOLUME
55mL/V4Cup
enough to make stock. If you don't have shells, use whole shrimp (with the heads on), which are relatively inexpensive and easy to find.
SCALING
PROCEDURE
65%
® Clean by discarding any organs, including the gills and eyes. (D Chop into pieces with a heavy knife or cleaver. Smaller pieces infuse more flavor into the stock. (D Place the pieces in a large (4 L/1 gal) zip-top bag. Partially seat the bag, cover it with a towel, and pound it with a mallet to crush the shells.
5%
see page 119
Saute the shells in the base of a pressure cooker over medium heat, stirring often, until golden brown, 6-8 minutes,
© Remove the shells from the pot, and reserve them for use in step 9. © Add to the pot, and panfry until the onions soften and start to brown, 3-4 minutes. Add more butter or oil as needed.
Carrots, thinly sliced
50 g
%cup
5%
Onion, thinly sliced
50 g
Vz cup
5%
Leeks, thinly sliced
20 g
yacup
2%
Fennel, thinly sliced
20 g
Vicup
2%
Button mushrooms, thinly sliced
20 g
44 cup
2%
Tomato paste (optional)
50 g
3Tbsp
5%
@ Stir in, and continue frying until a rich, cooked tomato aroma develops, about 3 minutes. Take care not to burn the mixture.
Water
lkg
1 L/4V4 cups
100%
® Deglaze the pot.
Dry vermouth
150 g
150 m L / % cup
15%
Italian parsley
2.5 g
1 sprig
0.3%
© Add, along with the sauteed shells, to the vegetable mixture, and stir.
Thyme
1g 2g 0.1 g
1-2 sprigs
0.1%
3-4 leaves
0.2%
® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 1 hour. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
5 seeds
0.01%
(y) Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurice it.
Fresh basil leaves Fennel seeds Saffron
2-3 threads
@ Strain the stock through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. © Use in warm or cold dishes. Safety tips far pressure-cooking: see page 33
88
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
,'..:
r
VEGETABLE STOCK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED I N :
$00 g/2 cups 344 hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 3 hours unattended keepsfor 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen f?;g easy %%M sous vide setup, vacuum sealer ^ ^ Vegetable Risotto (seepage 328), Farro with Chicken, Artichokes, and Black Olives (see variation on page 332), Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus (see variation on : page332) .'|f.' • -•••,*!»"-•• '$'-
ly to capture the subtle, Making stock sous vide is the best way specially if you have time to nuancedflavorsof the vegetables—especially infuse the liquid overnight in the refrigerator. When time is more pressing, however, we pressure-cook the stock (see the variation below), which produces a stronger flavor. jjre?
You can tailor dieflavorof this stock by selecting the varieties of vegetables you use. A stock made with sweet onions tastes different from one based on white onions,forexample. For a recipe for an all-allium (onion-family) vegetable jus, see page 182.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Ice
500 g
2 cups
100%
©. Preheat a water bath to 85 °C /185 °F.
Onion, thinly sliced
280 g f j PA cups
56%
(D Vacuum seal the ingredients together.
3
S4|*l| -\jM,
Carrots, thinly sliced
200 g
2 A cups
40%
(D Cook sous vide for 3 hours.
Celery, thinly sliced
100 g
V/i cups
Leeks, white parts only, thinly sliced
100 g
V/i cups .
20% 20%
® Plunge the sealed bag into an ice bath until it is fully chilled. Optionally, refrigerate the sealed ingredients for another 12 hours to. allow the flavors to infuse more fully into the stock. :j£& i'-fig*
Button m u sh rooms, thinly sliced ^
50g
%cup
10%
Tomato, chopped
50 g
Vi cup
10%
Chives, sliced
10g
Vicup
2%
Italian parsley, chopped
10g
3Tbsp
2%
Coriander seeds
1g
ltsp
0.2%
Black peppercorns Thyme
H
ltsp
0.2%
1-2 sprigs
Fresh bay leaf
lg 0.5 g
2 leaves
0.2% 0.1%
Star anise, crushed
0.5 g
Vipod m%
0.1%
|§).'-Strain. © Use the stock in warm or cold dishes.
Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 33
Pressure-Cooked Vegetable Stock Pressure-cooking the stock reduces the overall time to 1 hour, including 35 minutes of unattended cooking. Combine all of the ingredients in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 35 minutes; start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. Depressurize the cooker. Strain the stock, and use it warm or cold. 'r£f.-
Brown Vegetable Stock wk. v Preheat an oven to 220 "C/425 °F. Toss the vegetables in 4 0 g / 4 0 mL/ V> 3 Tbsp of neutral frying oil, and roast them in the preheated overt until they turn dark brown. Combine the roasted vegetables with the water and aromatics, and then continue at step 3 or with the pressure-cooking in the pressure-cooked variation at left.
STOCKS
TOASTED CORN STOCK YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:
7S0g/31A cups 1 hour overall, including IS minutes ofpreparation and 45 minutes unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker Pressure-Cooked Polenta (seepage 336), Pressure-Cooked Fresh-Corn Tamales (see page 340)
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
PROCEDURE
Fresh corn with husks
600-700 g
5 large ears
® Preheat the oven to 175 °C/350 °F. (D Shuck the com, reserving the husks. ® Scatter the husks on a baking sheet. Top with an inverted cooling rack. 0
Bake until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
© Cut the kernels from the cobs; reserve them for some other use. Cold water
1.2 kg
© Place the corncobs and toasted husks, but not the kernels, in a pressure cooker, add the water, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 30 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached.
1.2 L/5 cups
© Depressurize the cooker. © Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth, and use warm or cold. Safetytipsfor pressure-cooking: seepage 33
Preheat the oven to 175 "G/350 °F. *y
Shuck the corn, reserving the husks.
Bake the husks, tossing them occasionally until they all turn golden brown, 15-25 minutes. While the husks are baking, cut the kernels from the cobs. Reserve the kernels for another use. Place the corncobs, toasted husks, and water in a pressure cooker, and pressurecook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 30 minutes. Do not add the corn kernels. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
Scatter the corn husks on a baking sheet, and place an inverted cooling rack on top of them to hold them in place.
90
MODERNI
ME
8
Strain the corn stock through a sieve lined with cheesecloth. Use the stock in warm or cold dishes.
1 his recipe uses the husks and cobs of the com, but not the kernels. The kernels are good when cooked sous vide, and you can use them to make Corn Soup (see variation on page 181).
MUSHROOM JUS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:
S00g/2 cups SO minutes overall, including 20 minutes ofpreparation and 30 minutes unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker, white miso Cream ofMushroom Soup (see variation on page ISO), Barley with Wild Mushrooms and Red Wine (see variation on page 331)
This recipe makes an unseasoned mushroom stock if you follow it just through step 4; continue to step 8 to make a savory yet meatless jus that you can use as you would meat jus. We also serve the jus as a broth and use it to dress risotto (see page 328), poached eggs (see
page 142), and steak (see page 200). For an earthierflavorthat goes well with our barley risotto, add 15 g / 2 Tbsp of crumbled dry porcinis in step 1. For a more savory version, add 75 g/ 3A cup of thinly sliced smoked bacon at step 1.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Crimini mushrooms, thinly sliced
300 g
4 cups
75%
© Saute in the base of a pressure cooker over high heat until the mushrooms and shallots turn golden, about 12 minutes.
Shallots, thinly sliced
80 g
3
Clarified, unsalted butter or neutral-tasting oil
50 g
55mL/3V2Tbsp
13%
Water Fino sherry
400 g
400 mL/l 2 /3 cups
100%
80 g
80mL/V3Cup
20%
Dry white port or Chardonnay
80 g
80mL/V3Cup
20%
A cup
20%
see page 119
@ Combine with the cooked mushroom mixture, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 25 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. © Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. © Strain the stock through a fine sieve. Discard the solids. © Measure 500 g / 5 0 0 mL/2 cups of the mushroom stock.
White miso Soy sauce
28 g 4g
Salt
to taste
Sherry vinegar
to taste
2 Tbsp 3
3mL/ /4tsp
7%
© Blend into the measured stock, and allow to infuse for 4 minutes.
1%
© Strain. © Season the jus, and serve it warm. Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 33
STOCKS
BROWN CHICKEN JUS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:
500 g/2 cups 2Vi hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 2 hours unattended keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen easy pressure cooker, chicken feet (optional) Home Jus Gras (seepage 93), Shiitake Marmalade (seepage 151)
This jus furtherfortifiesan already intense stock with roasted chicken wings and feet, which add gelatin to produce a rich
mouthfeel. If chicken feet are unavailable, replace them with an equal weight of wings.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Chicken wings, chopped
450g/llb
3-4wings
45%
© Preheat the oven to 190 °C/375°F.
Chicken feet (optional)
80g/0.2lb
3-4 feet
8%
© Toss together.
Neutral frying oil
as needed
© Roast the chicken wing pieces and feel until brown, about 40 minutes.
see page xxii
100%
© Panfry over medium heat, stirring constantly, until brown, about 15 minutes.
1 L/4V4 cups
100%
200mL/?8Cup
20%
© Combine with the browned chicken parts and ground chicken in a pressure cooker, and pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 1 hour. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
Ground chicken
1 kg/2.2 lb
Neutral frying oil
as needed
Brown chicken stock see variation on page 85
1 kg
Fino sherry or dry white port
200 g
Shallots, thinly sliced
200 g
134 cups
20%
© Strain the jus into a pot. Discard the solids.
Thyme
lg
1-2 small sprigs
0.1%
© Simmer the jus over medium-high heat until it is reduced by half and becomes slightly syrupy, 20-25 minutes.
Salt
to taste
Lemon juice
to taste
© Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
© Season the jus, and serve it warm. Safetytips/orpressure-cooking: seepage 33
VARIATIONS Brown Beef Jus Substitute ground beef for the ground chicken, oxtail for the wings and feet, red wine for the fino sherry, and beef stock (see page 86) for the chicken stock. In step 5, increase the pressure-cooking time to 2 hours. Game Bird jus Substitute bones and ground meat of game birds, such as pheasant, duck, or grouse, for the chicken. You may want to replace the sherry or white port with a stronger-flavored alcohol, such as whiskey or red port.
92
M0DERI
SINE AT HOME
HOME JUS GRAS YIELD:
280 g/m cups
TIME ESTIMATE:
20 minutes serve the same day moderate Brown Chicken Jus (see the previous page), Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat (seepage 123), xanthan gum, liquid soy lecithin Roast Chicken (seepage 238), Turkey Confit (seepage 246)
STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
GOES WELL W I T H :
Many classic sauces are enriched with butter or oil, usually added at the last second in a step called "finishing" or "mounting." The reason for waiting until the last minute to add the fat is that the emulsion you form when you whisk it in is unstable when hot: the fat soon separates out. We solve that problem by adding lecithin, a heat-stable emulsifier found in egg yolks and soybeans. The resulting sauce is so stable that you can even make it in the afternoon, hold it at room
temperature, and then just warm it up at dinnertime. This sauce is also special in its use of rendered chicken fat rather than oil, butter, or cream. Especially if you use pressurerendered chicken fat, which has a strong roasted-chicken flavor, you'll taste the chicken much more than in traditional versions. For a delicious, smoky bacon taste instead, substitute bacon fat for the chicken fat.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Brown Chicken Jus
200 g
200mL/%cup
100%
® Blend in a pot by using an immersion blender until fully incorporated.
see the previous page
© Bring to a simmer.
Xanthan gum
0.8 g
Pressure-Rendered Chicken Fat
80 g
0.4% 95mL/ 3 /scup
40%
see page 123
Liquid soy lecithin (NOW brand)
1.6 g
Salt
to taste
Lemon juice
to taste
1
Place the brown chicken jus in a small pot, and use an immersion blenderto blend in the xanthan gum until it is fully incorporated. Xanthan gum is very potent, so weigh it carefully. If the liquid becomes very sticky, you added too much. Bring the jus to a simmer. Warm the fat in a second small pot over low heat, and then stir in the lecithin.
0.8%
® Warm the fat in a separate small pot over low heat, and stir in the lecithin. © Blend the warm fat slowly into the jus mixture until fully homogenized. Use an immersion blender. © Season the jus generously, and serve it warm.
Slowly pour the warm fat into the jus mixture while mixing with an immersion blender. Continue blending until the mixture is fully homogenized.
VARIATION: Ultrastable Butter Sauce Blend 100 g of a wine reduction, stock, juice, or other flavorful liquid with 0.4 g of xanthan gum. Melt 120 g / Vi cup of butter in a separate pot, and stir in 2.4 g of liquid soy lecithin. Blend the butter mixture into the thickened liquid. Season generously with salt and lemon juice.
STOCKS
Season the jus generously with salt and lemon juice, and serve it warm.
Liquid soy lecithin is not the same as soy lecithin powder. The powdered lecithin is deoiied and often used by Modernist chefs to make delicate foams. The liquid soy lecithin called for in these recipes is available from health-food stores. It is a powerful emulsifier and is very useful for making vinaigrettes and warm butter sauces. Always dissolve it in an oil or fat before combining it with other ingredients.
93
SAUCES A sauce is just a flavorful liquid that has been thickened enough to coat food. Fat, cornstarch, and flour are the thickeners most commonly used in traditional cooking. But each of these adds a lot of bulk to the sauce while muting the flavors of the primary ingredients. Modernist thickeners—such as the agar we use in our Onion Fluid Gel recipe on page 100 and the
94
xanthan gum in our Pressure-Cooked Drippings recipe on page 101—don't have these drawbacks. You use them in such small quantities that they have no perceptible impact on the flavor. Once you get the hang of using them, you can make a terrific sauce from almost any flavorful liquid that complements your dish.
MODERNIST CUISINE
HOUf
HOWTO Make Full-Flavored Pan Gravy Chefs often refer to the delicious brown residue that sticks to your pan when you saute or panfry food as "fond." It makes a wonderful basis for sauce, such as pan gravy. The trick is to deglaze the pan by adding
1
Saute meat or sliced vegetables until they turn brown.
a liquid to remove the fond at just the right time: it must be browned, but not black and bitter. Adding a little xanthan gum thickens the gravy; there is no need to boil off water, and with it many flavorful aromas.
While the pan is still hot, add just enough liquid to deglaze it. Use water to obtain a clear, pure flavor. Alternatively, add a flavored liquid such as chicken, meat, or vegetable stock—or even a fruit or vegetable juice—to produce a richer flavor. Don't add too much, or you will dilute the flavor of the gravy.
Heat the liquid in the pan while you use a spatula or a clean scrubber brush to loosen the fond and dissolve the scrapings. Keep stirring to dissolve the fond as the liquid comes to a simmer. Simmer for 2-3 minutes. Strain the sauce into a saucepan.
Adjust the seasoning of the sauce, which will still be fairly thin. The goal at this point is a potent, balanced flavor; you can thicken it later, if needed. You can reduce the liquid slightly if the flavor is weak, but the flavor molecules evaporate along with the water, so don't overcook it. Once the flavor is correct, serve the gravy as is, or continue with the next steps to refine the texture. To make the gravy smoother, process it in an immersion blender, countertop blender, orfood processor.
To add body to the sauce, use an immersion blender to thoroughly mix in a little xanthan gum. For a thin sauce, use 0.1-0.15 g of xanthan gum for every 100 g of liquid. Use 0.2-0.3 g per 100 g for a sauce closer in thickness to salad dressing or ketchup.
Finish the sauce by whisking in cream, butter, olive oil, flavored oil, or rendered fats (including drippings), if desired. Adjust the seasoning once more by adding salt and acid, such as lemon juice or vinegar, as needed.
VARIATION: Thickening w i t h W o n d r a Sauces in classical French cooking are thickened by adding roux, a cooked mixture of butter and flour. The Nouvelle cuisine movement in the 1970s largely rejected roux-based sauces, but Modernist chefs are rediscovering starch-thickened sauces— this time using modern starches, such as Wondra. After following steps 1-5 above, dust Wondra over the flavorful liquid; use 4-5 g of Wondra for every 100 g of liquid. Whisk to distribute the starch evenly (do not blend, as that can produce a gummy, consistency). Bring the liquid to a simmer, and then remove it from the heat. Continue with step 7.
SAUCES
95
REDEYE GRAVY YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:
200 g/1 cup 45 minutes overall keeps for 5 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen after step 6; continue with step when reheating easy Brown Pork Stock (see variation on page 86), smoked salt Shrimp and Grits (seepage 338) VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
3
16%
30 g
30mL/2Tbsp
6%
(7) Saute in a skillet over medium heat until the onions become Bolder and tender, about 15 minutes.
Star anise
0.2 g
1 pod
0.04%
(D Add, reduce heat to medium-low, and continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the onions turn dark amber and the star anise is fragrant, 10-12 minutes.
Brown Pork Stock see variation on page 86
500 g
500 mL/2 cups
100%
(D Deglaze the pan with the stock, add the syrup, and simmer until the liquid thickens and reduces by two-thirds, about 10 minutes.
Maple syrup (grade B preferred)
15 g
lTbsp
3%
© Remove the pan from the heat.
Whole coffee beans (French roast)
25 g
yicup
5%
d) Stir in, cover the pan, and allow to infuse for 5 minutes.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
Sweet onion, thinly sliced 80 g Rendered pork fat or bacon fat
A cup
see page 123
@ Strain the gravy into a small pot. Discard the solids. ® Warm the gravy over low heat.
Unsalted butter, cubed
35 g
Smoked salt
to taste
2V4Tbsp
7%
® Whisk into the warm gravy to thicken it. Do not boil. © Season the gravy, and serve it warm.
I
When making a glaze such as this one, choose a syrah, a big zinfandel. or some other strong, fruity red wine that has a lowtannincontent. It doesn't need to be expensive, just flavorful.
RED WINE GLAZE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED I N : INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
Lean ground beef
1.3 kg/2.8 lb
Neutral frying oil
75 g
lOOg/Yscup 4 hours overall, including 2 hours unattended keeps for S days when refrigerated or up to 6 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker, beef knucklebones Braised Short Ribs (seepage 229) VOLUME 80mL/V3Cup
SCALING
PROCEDURE
100%
© Fry the meat in a large skillet over high heat until it turns dark brown, about 8 minutes. Do not overcrowd the pan; work in batches.
6%
see page xxii
© Drain the browned meat in a colander placed over a bowl. Measure 4 0 g / 4 0 mL/V4 cup of the drained oil, and set the beef aside.
Sweet onion, thinly sliced 500 g
5VA cups
40%
Carrots, thinly sliced
7 cups
40%
500 g
3
® Combine with the reserved oil in the base of a pressure cooker, and saute uncovered over medium heat, stirring often, until the vegetables become completely soft and brown, 30-35 minutes.
Leeks, thinly sliced
250 g
3 /4 cups
20%
Garlic, thinly sliced
25 g
Vi cup
2%
Tomato paste
50 g
3Tbsp
4%
© Stir into the vegetable mixture, and cook, stirring often, until brown, about 10 minutes.
Red wine
750 g
750 mL/1 bottle
60%
© Pour in, and cook over high heat, stirring often, until the wine reduces to a syrup, 10-12 minutes.
Beef knucklebones
1.3 kg/2.8 lb
100%
© Add to the pressure cooker, and stir to combine.
Water
1 kg 5g
1 L/4VA cups 5 medium sprigs
80%
3g
3-4 sprigs
0.6 g
3 leaves 10-12 peppercorns
0.2% 0.04%
® Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 2 hours. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. © Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water overthe rim, to depressurize it. ® Strain the broth into a large pot through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth. Discard the solids. ® Cook the broth over high heat, skimming off the fat frequently, until reduced to a syrupy glaze, 45-60 minutes.
Italian parsley, bruised Thyme Fresh bay leaves Black peppercorns
0.5 g
Balsamic vinegar
to taste
Dark soy sauce
to taste
0.4%
0.03%
© Season the glaze, and serve it warm. Safety tips for pressure-cooking: see page 33
SAUCES
97
HOW TO Make Gels and Fluid Gels Gels are hardly new to cooking: cooked eggs are gels; so are cheeses, custards, and yogurts. But modern gelling agents have opened up a fantastic range of new culinary applications. You can use them to add body to a broth, mold a sauce into an attractive shape, or even solidify a liquid such as onion milk into a block, and then shear it back into a fluid (see page 100). The basic process is the same in each case. First, you dispense the gelling agent evenly throughout the liquid. Sometimes, you must heat the mixture to activate the gelling agent. The molecules of the agent link up to form a mesh that traps water and other molecules
1
Use an accurate gram scale (see page 7) to measure the right amount of agar. Use 0.25 g of agar for every 100 g of liquid when making a thin broth; 0.4-0.5 g per 100 g for a moderately thick sauce; or 0.9-1.1 g per 100 g for a thickness like that of a puree.
A
like fish in a net. As the mesh tightens, the liquid sets into a semisolid gel. You can puree certain gels after they have set to make a sauce that is thick on a spoon but thins to a pleasant texture as you eat it. Fluid gels, as these sauces are called, often have a creamier mouthfeel than you can get from a comparable sauce thickened with starch or xanthan gum. Agar is the most useful gelling agent for making fluid gels, but it does require heat to activate-not ideal if you are making a raw vegetable sauce or a cold soup such as gazpacho. Agar is derived from seaweed and has been used for centuries in Asian cooking.
Place the liquid in a saucepan—any cold, flavorful liquid works, including stock, pan juices, or dissolved fond—and sprinkle the agar into the liquid while blending with an immersion blender. Alternatively, mix the powder into the liquid in a countertop blender, and then transfer the mixture to a pan.
To make a semisolid gel, pour the mixture into a mold or bowl, and allow it to cool until it sets. To make a fluid gel, allow the gel to set, and then puree it in a blender until it is smooth.
Quick-set fluid gel: Place the hot mixture in a bowl, set the bowl in an ice-water bath, and then use an immersion blender to blend the mixture as it cools to below 30 *C / 86 *f and sets into a fluid gel.
98
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Bring the mixture to a boil, and stir until the agar dissolves completely.
Solutions to Common Problems When Thickening and Gelling Modern gelling agents and thickeners, such as gelatin, agar, xanthan gum, and Wondra, are incredibly versatile and practical. But it does take a bit of practice to build an intuition for how these ingredients work.
The table below lists the telltale signs that something has gone wrong, as well as the most likely causes of these occasional problems,
Problem
Possible Causes
Solutions
Clear lumps that look like fish eyes appeared in the liquid.
The thickener or gelling agent was dispersed unevenly.
Dust the agent evenly over the surface of the liquid while blending. Mix the agent with a dry bulking agent, such as sugar, or disperse it in a small amount of oil before adding to the liquid.
Steam caused the agent to clump together before it was fully distributed, or it was blended into a hot liquid.
Keep the powder away from steam, and keep the liquid to be thickened or gelled cool until the agent is fully dispersed.
Too little gelling agent or starch was used.
Check the recipe, and weigh the ingredient carefully on an accurate scale. If a greater concentration of gelling agent is needed, increase the quantity very gradually.
The liquid contains an enzyme that prevents gelation. Fresh kiwi, pineapple, and papaya juices, for example, contain enzymes that inhibit gelatin from setting.
Cook fresh juice, and then cool it before adding the gelling agent, or substitute canned or frozen fruit.
The gel was frozen and later thawed. The freezing process destroys the protein matrix of gelatin.
Refrigerate a gelatin mixture for at least 4 hours to set it, but do not let it freeze.
The gelling agent did not come up to the right temperature.
Monitor the liquid after dispersing the agent to check that it remains at the recommended activation temperature for the amount of time indicated. Most gelling agents activate when simmered for 2-3 minutes.
The alcohol concentration was too high.
Use an alcohol-tolerant gelling agent, such as agar. Gelatin will gel a liquid containing up to 36% alcohol, but the gels taste best when the concentration is 10% or less.
Another ingredient interfered with the action of the gelling agent.
Some gelling agents cannot tolerate high levels of salt, acid, or certain minerals.
Wondra was blended rather than whisked into the liquid, it was whisked for too long, or too much was added.
Always sift modified starches before adding them to a liquid to avoid having to overwork them. Use a hand whisk rather than a blender.
The liquid did not gel or thicken, even though the granules of powder swelled up.
The granules of powder did not swell in size or dissolve, and the liquid did not set.
The liquid became gummy after thickening it with Wondra.
SAUCES
99
ONION FLUID GEL YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
500 g/2 cups 2 hours overall including 30 minutes ofpreparation and IV2 hours unattended keepsfor 5 days when refrigerated either before or after pureeing in step 10 moderate sous vide setup, agar powder
This recipe is adapted from Heston Blumenthals update of the classic Escoffier sauce soubise, a Bechamel sauceflavoredwith onion puree. Making the sauce as afluidgel (see page 98) results in a
cleanerflavorand much greater stability. The sauce won't separate, even when reheating it after several days in the refrigerator. Unlike gelatin, agar gels can tolerate moderate heat (up to 85 °C /185 °F).
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Sweet onion, thinly sliced 635 g
6 cups
127%
® Preheat a water bath to 88 °C/190°F.
Shallots, thinly sliced
155 g
WB cups
31%
Neutral-tasting oil
100 g
110mL/!/2Cup
20%
© Sweat the onions and shallots in oil in a large skillet over low heat until translucent and dry, but not brown, 20-30 minutes.
Whole milk
500 g
520 mL/2Va cups
100%
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
(D Combine with the onions in a large (4 L/1 gal) zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag (see page 58), and seal it. © Cook sous vide f o r i hour. © Sieve, pressing the onions firmly to extract as much milk as possible. © Measure 500 g of the onion milk, and chill It.
Agar powder
3.5 g
0.7%
© Sprinkle over the cold onion milk, and then whisk or use an immersion blender to blend the agar completely. © Boil until fully dissolved and hydrated, 1-2 minutes. ® Pour into a tray or bowl, and chill until completely set, 15-20 minutes. ® Puree until smooth and fluid.
Salt
© Season, and serve warm or cold.
to taste
To make the onion milk on the stove top rather than sous vide, simmer the cooked onions and shallots with the milk over low heat for 10 minutes. You can grind flaked agar in a coffee grinder to make agar powder.
VARIATION: Egg-Yolk Fluid Gel Vacuum seal 150 g/10 Tbsp of egg yolks (about 10 yolks), and then cook them sous vide In a 80*C/176'F bath for 35 minutes. Blend the cooked yolks with 150 g/150 mL/V« cup of flavored cream or stock, and season to taste. Add lemon juice or more liquid if needed to thin the sauce.
100
Quick-set method: After step 8, place the hot, hydrated mixture in a tall container, and set it in an Ice-water bath. Use an immersion blender to puree the gel as it cools. Stop blending when the fluid gel is cold. Season and serve.
MODERN!
ISINE AT
PRESSURE-COOKED DRIPPINGS YIELD:
200g/I
TIME ESTIMATE:
PA hours overall, including IS minutes ofpreparation and 1 hour unattended keeps refrigerated for 5 days or up to 6 months when frozen moderate pressure cooker, three S00 mL/16 oz canning jars, xanthangum
STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
cup
Why scrape the drippings from the pan to make gravy? Just pressurecook ground chicken to extract the delicious juices without scorching or scraping. If you prefer a brighter or more complex flavor to the gravy, add some good vinegar or citrus juice, ground spices, and
fresh herbs. To make a thinner jus, omit the xanthan gum. You can substitute a few cubes of cold butter for the xanthan gum. The emulsion can be further stabilized by adding 1-2 g of liquid soy lecithin (see page 93).
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
Chicken wings, chopped
450g/llb
3-4 wings
100%
® Mix thoroughly.
Boneless, skinless chicken 4 5 0 g / l l b thighs, ground
from 3 thighs
100%
© Divide evenly into three 500 mL/16 oz canning jars. Tighten the lids fully, and then unscrew them one-quarter turn.
Soy sauce
8mL/lV2tsp
2%
® Place the filled jars on a rack or trivet in the base of a pressure cooker, and add 2.5 cm/1 in of water.
9g
Honey
9g
3
l /4tsp
2%
PROCEDURE
© Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 1 hour. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached. © Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it. Let the jar contents cool slightly before opening. © Strain, reserving the juices and fat. Discard the solids. Xanthan gum (Bob's Red Mill brand)
© Weigh the reserved drippings, and measure the xanthan gum equal to 0.15% of the weight. For example, if the drippings weigh 200 g, measure 0.3 g of xanthan gum.
as needed
® Blend the xanthan gum into the warm drippings until thickened. Salt
© Season the gravy, and serve it warm.
as needed
Safety tips for pressure-cooking: seepage 33
s*>
\J@M
fftj fg
K.
^
IP«
VARIATION: Caramelized O n i o n Gravy To make a thicker gravy without adding more starch or fat, blend in 30 g / 2 Tbsp of PressureCaramelized Onions (see page 127) and 10 g / 2lA tsp of Pressure-Cooked Garlic Confit (see page 126) before step 9.
If you have a potatoricer,you can line it with cheesecloth to strain as much juice as possible from the cooked chicken at step 6. As you blend in the xanthan gum in step 8, adjust the texture to your taste by adding melted butter.
SAUCES
101
^B^E^K
Chervil, Thyme, and
Sauce Verte
Green Onion and Sorrel Pesto
Scallion Pesto
PISTACHIO PESTO YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED I N :
3S0 g/m cups PA hours overall, including IS minutes of preparation and 1 hour unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 3 months when frozen easy roasted pistachio oil, xanthangum (optional) Quinoa with Pistachio Pesto and Asparagus (see variation on page 332), Genovese Pizza (see variation on page 306), Pesto Chicken Thighs (see variation on page 262), Barley Noodles (see variation on page 271), Pistachio Clam Chowder (see variation on page 292), Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Conft and Basil (see variation on page 318)
Pesto, which simply means paste in Italian, is most often associated with the Genovese version that combines pine nuts, basil, Parmesan, and olive oil. But this reinterpretation that replaces pine nuts with pistachios has become one of our favorites. You can find recipes on the next page for the variations pictured above.
The function of the xanthan gum, which is optional, is to thicken natural juices that otherwise tend to separate from the greens. Toss the pesto with pasta, mix it into a warm potato salad, slather it over salmon before baking, or serve it as a dipforcrusty grilled bread.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Basil leaves Chives
40 g 35 g
2% cups
80%
® Bring a pot of water to a boil. Arrange an ice-water bath alongside.
1 cup
70%
Cilantro leaves 35 g Scallion, green parts only, 35 g cut into 5 cm / 2 in pieces Baby spinach 15 g
2 cups
70%
16 cup
70%
(D Combine, and blanch in the boiling water until just cooked, about 1 minute. Use a skimmer or slotted spoon to lift the greens out, and plunge them immediately into the ice bath.
1 cup
30%
Garlic cloves
»8
2-3 cloves
16%
© Boil until tender, about 2 minutes.
Parmigiano-Reggiano, finely grated
50 g
VA
cup
100%
;
86^C/187°F
90 ^094"^
rigid
rigid rubbery dry; greening increases
solid brittle and rubbery
solid very brittle and rubbery
powdery; more greening
very powdery; a lot of greening;
very firm slightly dry; greening begins
B R E A K F A S T . EGGS
FRENCH SCRAMBLED EGGS YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: GOES WELL W I T H :
four to six servings (380 g) 45 minutes overall, including 10 minutes ofpreparation and 35 minutes unattended serve immediately after dispensingfrom the siphon easy sous vide setup, S00 mL whipping siphon, two cartridges of nitrous oxide Steamed Herb Omelet (seepage 146), Sous Vide Steak (seepage 194)
This ultrarich dish is one of our favorites. We create a texture as smooth as custard, having no lumps whatsoever, by using an immersion blender. Then we aerate the eggs in a whipping siphon to make them foamy and light. We also love the pudding-like texture of
nonaerated eggs; see the variation below. Serve the eggs as a breakfast entree, as a filling for omelets, or as a side dish for the ultimate steak and eggs.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Eggs
200 g
4 large
100%
© Preheat a water bath to 72 °C/162°F.
Egg yolks
60 g
3-4 yolks
30%
Unsalted butter, melted
60 g
65mL/4#Tbsp
30%
® Mix all ingredients, and blend until smooth by using a whisk or immersion blender.
Whole milk
60 g
60mL/'/4cup
30%
Salt
4g
1 tsp
2%
(D Place the mixture in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 58), and seal it. 0
Cook sous vide until just set, about 35 minutes.
© Transfer to a bowl, and puree until smooth using an immersion blender. © Pour into a whipping siphon, charge with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and dispense.
TO MAKE A H E A D After step 5, place cooked eggs in a bag or siphon, and hold in a 55 "C/131 °F water bath for up to 1 hour. Continue with step 6 to serve.
VARIATIONS Scrambled Egg Pudding Prefer a velvety, pudding-like texture that's not aerated? Increase the temperature in step 1 to 74°c/165 °F, and decrease the cooking time in step 4 to about 30 minutes. This yields a firmer texture. After step 5, spoon the pureed eggs from the bowl, and serve immediately.
144
Olive O i l Scrambled Eggs Increase the egg yolks to a total of 80 g / 5-6 yolks, and replace the butter with extra-virgin olive oil. We use this as a filling in our Espagnoie omelet (see variation on the next page).
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Mini Egg Cups rill the bottom of warm ramekins with Shiitake Marmalade (see page 151). Top with the scrambled-egg foam. Garnish with grated cheddar or Gruyere. This makes a terrific amuse-bouche or snack for special guests.
mrxH
OMELET FILLINGS Eggs pair well with so manyflavorsthat the variety of tasty filling combinations for omelets is almost infinite. The classic combinations below have stood the test of time. They are still among our favorites. Try these fillings, or others you develop, in place of the French Scrambled Eggs and chives in the Steamed Herb Omelet recipe on the next page. The Raviolo filling can be served open-faced or sandwiched between two omelet sheets. Quantities shown below yieldfourservings.
Florentine Omelet Fining Creamed Spinach see page 199
140 g
Yz cup
Ricotta cheese
80 g
5Tbsp
Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
16 g
4Tbsp
Lemon zest, grated
1.6 g
Vitsp
>C* Alsatian Omelet Filling Pressure-Caramelized Onions see page 127
140 g
Vt cup
MuensterorCamembert 8 0 g cheese, rind removed and cut into a long strip
2 cups
Black Forest ham, julienned
48 g
V4 cup
Thyme leaves
1.6 g
Vitsp
Espagnole Omelet Filling Tomato Sofrito 140 g see variation on page 112 Olive Oil Scrambled Eggs 80 g see variation on the previous page Chives, minced, or seasoned herbs
8
V2 CUp
#cup
2Tbsp
Raviolo Omelet Filling Eggs, cooked sous vide, Whites removed see steps 1-3, page 152 Bacon lardons, crispy
5A.
Chives, minced ^;' Pecorino cheese, grated Black pepper, coarsely ground
^
4 eggs
32g 5g 16 g 1.6 g
V*cup 2Tbsp 4Tbsp Vitsp
STEAMED HERB OMELET YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
four appetizer-size omelets (40 g each plusfilling) 40 minutes overall omelet sheets keep for 2 days when refrigerated; serve assembled omelets immediately moderate nonstick frying pan (20 cm/8 in) with metal lid or oven-safe glass lid
We think this is the perfect omelet: it is tender and delicate, with a pure, fresh egg flavor. Our goal here is to steam the omelet at a precise temperature. A combi oven or water-vapor oven is made to do exactly that, but you can achieve similar results in a home oven. The trick is to heat the omelet evenly while avoiding evaporation and
browning. The best way we've found to do that is to cook it in a skillet topped with a hot, metal lid on an oven rack that is perfectly level. Although this omelet recipe is made only with eggs and cream, modern versions almost always contain a filling of some kind; some of our favorite combinations are listed on the previous page.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Eggs, blended
150 g
3-4 eggs
100%
Heavy cream
15 g
15 mL/1 Tbsp
10%
Egg yolk
12g
lyolk
8%
© Preheat the oven to 175 "C/350 °F. Once the oven is hot, place the ovensafe lid to a nonstick, 20 c m / 8 in frying pan in the oven to preheat for about 15 minutes.
Salt
2g
\h tsp
1.3%
Cooking spray
as needed
® Blend thoroughly by using a whisk or immersion blender. Allow any foam to dissipate, or use a spoon to skim it from the surface.
© © ©
Spray the bottom of the frying pan with a thin film of cooking spray. Pour one quarter of the egg mixture into the frying pan. Place the hot lid on the pan, and put it in the oven. Cook until the eggs set, about 6 minutes.
©
While the eggs cook, line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and spray it with cooking spray.
©
Slide the cooked omelet onto the baking sheet. Leave the lid in the oven while you prepare the next omelet.
®
Repeat steps 3-7 three times with the remaining egg mixture. After the first one, the omelets will cook in the warm pan in about 3 minutes. Cover the omelets on the baking sheet with another sheet of sprayed parchment, and place them in the oven for lVi-2% minutes to reheat
Scrambled Egg Pudding, warm (optional) see variation on page 144
200 g
Chives, minced
5g
1
Vfecup
133%
Divide the warm scrambled eggs evenly among the omelet sheets. Fold the edges of each omelet carefully over the filling.
2 Tbsp
3%
— © Sprinkle with the chives, and serve immediately.
Preheat the oven to 175 "C/350 °F. When the oven reaches its set temperature, put the lid of a nonstick, 20 c m / 8 in frying pan into the oven to preheat for about 15 minutes. Choose a lid that is oven-safe and fits snugly on the pan.
Blend the whole eggs, cream, yolks, and salt thoroughly by using a whisk or immersion blender. If a foam rises on the surface, allow it to dissipate, or skim it off with a spoon.
Cover the pan with the hot net. ano put the covered pan into the oven. Cook the eggs until they set, about 6 minutes. The pan should sit level on the oven rack. Use pieces of folded Aluminum foil as shims if needed to ensure aflat, evenly cooked omelet.
Coat the bottom of the pan with a thin film of cooking spray. Pour one quarter of the egg mixture into the frying pan. It will spread into a thin layer.
146
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
While the eggs are baking, line a baking sheet with parchment paper, and spray the paper with a light coating of cooking spray.
Divide the warm scrambled eggs, if using, evenly among the omelet sheets. You can add or substitute any other filling at this point. Sprinkle the filling with the chives.
Slide the cooked omelet from the pan onto the baking sheet. Return the lid to the oven while you prepare the next omelet.
8
Repeat steps 3-7 three times with the remaining egg mixture. Once the pan is warm from cooking the first omelet, the remaining omelets will require just 3 minutes or so each to cook.
Cover the omelets on the baking sheet with another sheet of parchment paper coated with cooking spray, and place them into the oven to reheat for V/i-lVi minutes.
11
Use a thin-edged spatula to fold the edges of each omelet carefully over its filling.
12
Sprinkle with the chives, and serve the omelets immediately.
TO MAKE AHEAD After step 8, coverthe baking sheet with oilrubbed plastic wrap, and store it in the refrigerator for up to 2 days. When you're ready to serve the omelets, preheat the oven to 175 °C/ 350 °F. Remove the plastic wrap from the baking sheet, and reheat the omelets forVA-2Vi minutes. Continue with step 10. ENTREE-SIZE OMELET We serve these omelets as an appetizer, which is how we get away with using so few eggs to feed four people. To make an omelet large enough to serve as an entree, use all of the egg mixture in one 30 cm/12 in pan. Cook 3-4 minutes longer, until just set. IF YOU HAVE A C O M B I OVEN If you have access to a professional or home combi oven, set the oven to full steam at 82 °C / 180 °F. Follow steps 2-4, cover the frying pan with plastic wrap, and then cook the omelet for 10 minutes. Continue with step 10.
BREAKFAST
EGGS
147
STRIPED MUSHROOM OMELET four appetizer-size
YIELD:
omelets (140 g each)
TIME ESTIMATE:
1 hour overall
STORAGE NOTES:
omelet sheets keep for 2 days when refrigerated} serve assembled omelets
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
advanced
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
two silicone discs, IS cm/6
(level of effort) in across, cut from a larger mat; 20 cm/8
with metal lid or oven-safe glass lid; pastry comb with 3 mm/Win (powdered
immediately
in nonstick frying
teeth; albumin
pan
powder
egg whites)
Once you get the hang of making these omelets, you won't want to serve your special guests anything else. T h e result is both beautiful and delicious; we promise it is worth the effort. T h e silicone disc
must He flat and seal tightly in the base of your nonstick frying pan. Make sure the mat is silicone only; do not cut mats that contain fiberglass, such as Silpat brand mats.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Eggs, blended Heavy cream Egg yolk, blended Salt
150 g
3-4 eggs
100%
15 g
15 mL/1 Tbsp
10%
12 g
1 yolk
8%
2g
Vitsp
1.3%
© Preheat the oven to 175 °C/350 'F. Once the oven is hot, place the ovensafe lid of a 20 cm / 8 in nonstick frying pan in the oven to preheat for about 15 minutes. (D Line a baking sheet with parchment, and spray it with cooking spray. © Blend thoroughly by using a whisk or immersion blender. Allow any foam that appears to dissipate, or use a spoon to skim it from the surface.
100 g
3
/a cup
67%
40 g lOg 8.8 g 2g as needed
3 yolks
27%
10mL/2tsp
7%
5tsp
5.8%
y2 tsp
1.3%
Mushroom Puree see page 150 Egg yolks Heavy cream Albumin powder Salt
Neutral-tasting oil or cooking spray
© Whisk together thoroughly to create the mushroom base. © Spread one quarter of the mushroom base onto a round silicone mat in a layer 2 mm/Vie in thick. © Pull a pastry comb through the mushroom base to create even tines across the mat. 0 © © (§) © © @
French Scrambled Eggs,
200 g
2 cups
133%
warmed see page 144
Shiitake Marmalade,
as neeoe
warmed
see page 151 Clarified, unsalted butter as needed see page 119 ——
1
• . •• -
,
•
,,
,,
Coat the pan with a thin layer of oil. and carefully place the mushroomstriped silicone disc into the pan. Pour one quarter of the omelet base over the back of a spatula or large spoon and onto the lines of mushroom base. Place the hot lid on the pan, and bake the omelet sheet in the oven until the egg sets, about 6 minutes. While one sheet is baking, repeat steps 5 and 6 to prepare strips of mushroom base on a second, cool silicone disc. Remove the pan from the oven, lift out the silicone disc and cool the cooked omelet sheet slightly. Peel the omelet sheet carefully from the silicone, and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat steps 7-12 three times with the remaining ingredients: skip step 10 the last time. After the first omelet sheet, the remaining omelet sheets will cook in the warm pan in about 3 minutes.
(£) Top the omelet sheets with a second piece of sprayed parchment. Reheat in a 175 "0/350 °f oven for 1 '.> 2".- minutes. @ Lay the omelet sheets stripe-side down, and divide the French scrambled eggs and shiitake marmalade evenly among them. ® Fold the edges of the omelet sheets carefully over theirfillings,and brush the omelets with clarified butter. Serve immediately. —• • —
i* in
i -
i n . n a i l ' I. - —
Preheat the oven to 175 *C /350 *F. Once the oven reaches its set temperature, place the oven-safe lid of a 20 c m / 8 in nonstick frying pan into the oven to preheat for about 15 minutes.
Blend the whole eggs, cream, yolks, and salt thoroughly; use a whisk or immersion blender. If foam rises on the surface, allow it to dissipate, or use a spoon to skim it off. This is the omelet base.
Line a baking sheet with parchment pap< and spray it with cooking spray.
Whisk together the mushroom puree, yolks, cream, albumin powder, and salt thoroughly to make the mushroom base.
148
M O D E R N I S T C U I S I N E AT HOME
—
TO MAKE AHEAD After step 12, cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap, and refrigerate the omelet sheets for up to 2 days. To reheat, remove the plastic, and warm in a
Spread one quarter of the mushroom base onto a round silicone mat to form an even layer2 m m / 1 / ^ in thick. We use an offset spatula to do this.
8
Pour one quarter of the omelet base over the back of a spoon to flood gently over the mushroom base. The spoon helps prevent the flow from smearing the lines.
Pull a pastry comb having3 mm/Ve in teeth through the mushroom mixture to create straight, parallel lines across the mat. You may want to stabilize the silicone mat by using double-sided tape to stick it to the counter—just make sure to remove the tape before cooking. If the lines are not straight, simply scrape off the mushroom mixture, remake the layer, and try again.
Rub or spray a thin layer of oil onto the pan, and carefully place the silicone disc with the stripes of mushroom base into the pan. The oil should create an airtight seal between the silicone mat and the pan, thus preventing any egg from seeping under.
Coverthe pan with the hot lid, place it in the oven, and bake until the egg sets, about 6 minutes. The pan should sit level on the oven rack; use folded pieces of aluminum foil as shims, if needed, to ensure that the omelet is flat and cooks evenly.
10
While one sheet is baking, repeat steps 5 and 6 to prepare strips of mushroom base on a second, cool silicone disc.
11
Remove the pan from the oven, lift out the silicone disc, and cool the omelet sheet slightly.
B R E A K F A S T EGGS
12
Peel the omelet sheet from the mat, and transfer it to the prepared baking sheet.
13
Repeat steps 7-12 three times with the remaining ingredients; skip step 10 the last time. Do not stack the omelets. After the first omelet sheet has cooked, the remaining three omelet sheets will cook in the warm pan in about 3 minutes.
14
Top the omelet sheets with another piece of sprayed parchment. Place the baking sheet in the oven for 1J6-2V6 minutes to reheat all of the omelets at once.
15
Lay the omelet sheets stripe-side down, and divide the French scrambled eggs and shiitake marmalade among them.
16
Fold the edges of the omelet sheets over their fillings, flip them seam-side down, and brush them with clarified butter.
149
MUSHROOM PUREE 200g/7/acup 45 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen easy
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
This puree is versatile, having many uses in addition to making omelets. We like to serve it as a garnish for poached fish or chicken; you can also transform it into a simple, yet intense, cream of mushroom soup (see variation below). Shiitake and portobello mushrooms are generally easy to find
year-round, but we substitute other varieties as they come into season. Criminis, morels, chanterelles, and porcinis make flavorful substitutes for the shiitakes. Black trumpets are preferable to portobellos when you can find them. If you like the flavor of truffle oiladd a few drops at step 4.
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Shiitake mushroom caps, 250 g thinly sliced
4'/3 cups
100%
(T) Saute the mushrooms until golden brown, about 10 minutes.
Unsalted butter
30 g
3Tbsp
12%
Shallots, minced
50 g
% c u p / 2 shallots
20%
Portobello mushroom gills, spooned from the cap
20 g
from 1 large
8%
© Add, and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the shallots are very tender, about 20 minutes. The portobello gills will darken the mixture.
Mushroom Jus or water see page 91
165 g
165mL/ 3 /i cup
66%
(D Stir in, increase to medium heat, and simmer for 1 minute.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
© Puree in a blender until smooth. © Pass through a fine sieve.
Salt
1.2%
@ Season the puree, and serve it warm.
V A R I A T I O N : Cream o f M u s h r o o m Soup Mushroom Puree
200 g
% cup
165 g
165 m L / ^ i cup
Heavy cream
100 g
110 mL A * cup
W h i t e mi so
5g to taste
ltsp
from recipe above
Mushroom Jus see page 91
Salt Brioche croutons, cut into small cubes, and fried in bacon fat
as needed
Stir together the puree, jus, cream, and miso in a pot, and bring to a simmer. Season with salt, and garnish with brioche croutons or sauteed mushrooms.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
SHIITAKE MARMALADE 300g/lcup 40 minutes overall keeps for 3 days when refrigerated or up to 1 month when frozen easy
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
This condiment transforms the intense umami flavor of caramelized shiitake mushrooms into an unctuous marmalade. Fold in some grain mustard, and serve it with steak, or spread the marmalade on toast topped with grilled sweet onions. When they are available,
substitute seasonal mushrooms such as criminis, morels, chanterelles, and porcinis. For a differentflavor,replace the soy sauce with our rich Brown Chicken Jus (see page 92).
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Shiitake mushroom caps
300 g
5V8 cups
100%
® Pulse the mushrooms in a food processor until they are minced but not pureed.
Unsalted butter
60 g
4 Tbsp
20%
® Melt in a frying pan, and add the mushrooms. (D Cook over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned and dry, 15-18 minutes.
Shallots, minced
60 g
V3 CUp
20%
© Stir into the mushroom mixture, and cook until tender, 8-10 minutes.
Water
lOOg
100mL/ 3 /acup
33%
(D Add to the pan, and stir to combine.
Soy sauce
36 g
30mL/2Tbsp
12%
© Simmer until thick but still fluid, about 1 minute.
Honey
4g
ltsp
1.3%
Chives, thinly sliced
lOg
VA
cup
3.3%
Tarragon, minced
5g
§ Tbsp
1.7%
Salt
to taste
The mushrooms should be processed just until they are minced. Use the pulse feature to ensure that the mushrooms do not become a paste or puree.
® Fold in just before serving. ® Season the marmalade, and serve it warm.
When the mushrooms are brown and the shallots are tender but not brown, it is time to add the water, soy sauce, and honey.
Savory m a r m a l a d e s The concept of a savory marmalade may seem odd at first, but marmalade is an excellent form for a flavorful warm condiment. Try making one with just minced onions and shallots seasoned generously with thyme and black pepper. You can make a marmalade of minced bacon and apple by adding a bit of reduced apple juice or maple syrup to serve as a binder.
EGGS SUNNY-SIDE UP YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
four servings (400 g/4 eggs) VA hours overall, including IS minutes ofpreparation and SO minutes unattended egg whites keep for 1 day when refrigerated moderate sous vide setup, four small nonstickfrying pans (10-12 cm/4-S in), foil coverscut to fitfrying pans
Cooking an egg sunny-side up to perfection poses an inherent problem: the yolk and the white reach their ideal textures at different temperatures. Our solution is to cook the yolk separately from the white and to then reassemble the two parts just before serving. That way, the yolk is like jam and the white is still buttery.
We love the pudding-like consistency of a yolk cooked at 67 *C, 153 °F. For a more traditional runny yolk, cook it instead at 62 °C, 144 °F, but cook an extra egg or two, because yolks are very fragile at this temperature, and you might lose one. Raise the temperature to 70 °C / 1 5 8 °F to make a perfectly spherical yolk having a fudge-like consistency. It's up to you.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Eggs
200 g
4-5 large
67%
Neutral-tasting oil or clarified, unsalted butter (optional) see page 119
150 g
160 mL/s/a cup
© Preheat a water bath to 67 "C/153 °F, and preheat the oven to!6G*C/ 320 °F. Cut four foil lids just slightly larger in diameter than the rims of four 10-12 cm/4-5 in nonstick frying pans. © Cook the whole eggs sous vide for 40 minutes. ® Shell the eggs, and carefully clean off the whites to isolate the yolks. © Keep the egg yolks warm for up to 1 hour, if needed, by holding them in a rigid container that isfilledwith oil or butter and then placed in a 60 'C/140 °F water bath.
Egg white
300 g
l'/bcups/ 10 whites
100%
© Blend by using a whisk or immersion blender, and then strain. Allow any surface foam to dissipate, or skim it from the surface.
Heavy cream
90 g
lOOmL/yscup
30%
Salt
3g
3
Cooking spray
as needed
Brown butter, warm see page 119
30 g
/i tsp
1%
® © © (?)
Coat the four pans with a thinfilmof cooking spray. Place one quarter of the egg white mixture into each of the pans. Cover the pans with the foil lids. Place the pans in the oven, and bake until the egg whites are just set, about 12 minutes. (§) Slide the cooked egg whites gently onto individual plates. © Scoop a small divot out of each egg white to hold the yolk, •
30mL/2Tbsp
10%
•
• ii • -*•••
i .
i i i > HI
@ Place an egg yolk in each divot. © Drizzle the brown but ter over the eggs, and sJ rve them immediately. •
Preheat a water bath to 67 "C/153 "F, and preheat the oven to 160 °C/ 1 320 °r. Cut four foil lids just slightly larger in diameter than the rims of
'
I ' i l ' t W .
I I
'
m
i
l
l
*T| Cook the whole eggs sous vide for 40 minutes.
four 10-12 cm /4-5 in nonstick frying pans. TO MAKE AHEAD
The egg whites can be made up to 24 hours in advance. As the egg whites bake in step 9, lay a piece of parchment paper in a baking sheet, and spray it with cooking oil. Arrange the cooked whites on It, and cover them with another sheet of sprayed parchment paper. Cover the baking sheet with plastic wrap, and refrigerate it. To reheat the egg whites, remove the plastic and warm them in a 135 ''C/275 °F oven for5-6 minutes. Time the cooking of the yolks accordingly.
Shell each egg, and clean off the whites to isolate the perfectly cooked yolk. Dip or rinse the yolk in water to clean it. Be very gentle with the yolk: if you puncture the membrane, it will burst.
M O D E R N I S T C U I S I N E AT H O M E
VARIATION: Deviled Eggs For a modern take on deviled eggs, whip the egg whites with vinegar, oil, mustard, and herbs to make a vinaigrette. Serve it as a dressing for the cooked whole yolks.
Keep the egg yolks warm for up to 1 hour, if needed, by holding them in a rigid container that is filled with neutral-tasting oil or clarified butter and then placed in a 60 °C/ 140 °F water bath. This technique prevents a skin from forming over the yolk. Blend the egg whites, cream, and salt, and then strain the mixture. Skim off any foam that forms on the surface, or allow it to dissipate on its own. Spray a thin coat of cooking spray over the bottom of the four pans. Pour one quarter of the egg white mixture into each of the pans.
8
Coverthe pans with the foil lids. Don't let the foil wrap under the bottom.
Place the pans in the oven, and bake until the eggs are just set, about 12 minutes. The pans should be level on the oven rack. Use folded pieces of aluminum foil as shims, if needed, so that the white is even in thickness.
10
Slide the cooked egg whites carefully onto individual plates.
Use a ring cutter or a spoon to scoop a small divot from each egg white.
12
Place one drained, warm egg yolk in each divot.
13
Drizzle warm brown butter over the eggs, and serve them immediately.
B R E A K F A S T EGGS
153
SALADS AND COLD SOUPS A salad can be so much more than the stereotypical pile of greens that some chefs deride as "rabbit food." Look at a salad as an opportunity to create appealing textural contrasts and flavor combinations. Putting together a balanced salad that avoids soggy homogeneity takes thought and practice. This chapter can help. The salad recipes presented here illustrate a wide range of attractive options: a green salad mixed with a creamy, tart dressing of lettuce puree: a chickpea salad with tuna con fit and no greens at all; and the delicate grain quinoa tossed with cauliflower and apple to make a kind of Modernist tabbouleh.
to Spain, was based on grapes, almonds, garlic, and bread. We like to reinterpret the dish to include seasonal fruits such as peaches, cherries, strawberries, or (as in the recipe here) raspberries. Vichyssoise—a simple soup of potatoes, leeks, and cream—is challenging because it's so minimal. The cream is often added too heavily, to mask the graininess of the potato. We wanted more of the potato flavor to shine through, so we borrowed a trick from brewers: we use diastatic malt powder to transform the potato starch into sugars, thus removing the graininess.
Cold soups often get a bad rap, too. Americans in particular tend to idealize soup as hearty, heartwarming, and piping hot. But soups can be incredibly satisfying without being warm. Cold soups—robust, refreshing, and complex—are popular in Italy, Spain, France, Scandinavia, and Russia.
THE S C I E N C E OF H O W C O L D A N D FAT AFFECT FLAVOR
Gazpacho is probably the best-known example, although few are aware that it wasn't originally made with tomatoes. One of the oldest recipes for gazpacho, which the Moors likely brought
No matter how perfectly you cook and puree a potato, it seems grainy on the tongue unless you add butter or cream. The fat coats the natural starch granules of the potato to create that creamy mouthfeel. But, like cold, fat numbs flavor perception. For example, you don't perceive the true saltiness of ham—which has triple the salt content of most foods— because it's both cold and fatty. When making cold, creamy sauces or soups, you have to compensate for this phenomenon by adding more salt, sweetness, or acid than you would for warm foods.
HIGHLIGHTS
WL
ess a salad, put the dressi in the bottom of the bowl, and then toss in the greens to give them a thin, even coating. Lettuce can become oversaturated quickly if dressing is poured over the top.
Add crunch to a quinoa salad by mixing in shaved cauliflower tips, apple, and celery. see page 170
Try your hand at using Modernist ingredients and techniques to create vacuum-infused rhubarb and a beautifully plated Fruit Minestrone. seepage 1S8
FURTHER READING IN MODERNIST
You don't need tons of cream to create a silky smooth vichyssoise. We extract the essence of leeks, and then use that juice as the main liquid to give it an intense flavor. see page 162
seepage 166
CUISINE
Cookingfruits and vegetables sous vide for purees: seepage 3-290 A seasonal milange of cooked and raw fruits: seepages 3-294-295 A plated-dish recipe for Lentil Salad withfoiegras cherries: seepages S-267-271 A plated-dish recipe for Strawberry Gazpacho with sour rhubarb sorbet: seepages S-277-279
\S
RASPBERRY GAZPACHO four servings (450 g/ 2 cups) 1V4 hours overall, including IS minutes of preparation and 1 hour unattended (optional) keeps for 2 days when refrigerated; raspberry syrup keeps for up to 6 months when frozen
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
easy sous vide setup, piquillo peppers, xanthangum
Showcase the best fruit of the season with this refreshing twist on gazpacho. Ajo bianco, one of the original forms of gazpacho, was made from white bread, garlic, almonds, and grapes, rather than the tomatoes used most frequently today for the base. David Kinch, chef at Manresa in Los Gatos, California, gave us the idea to use strawberries in place of tomatoes. We have extended this idea to raspberries. Cherries, peaches, nectarines, and apples
make equally delicious gazpachos when those fruits are at their peak. The raspberry syrup made in the first four steps of this recipe is optional; you can use it to adjust the consistency and sweetness of the soup. The technique for extracting raspberry juice sous vide, however, works well with all berries. The resulting brightly colored, clear syrup can also be used to garnish a light dessert or stirred into sparkling white wine for a refreshing cocktail resembling a kirroyah.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Raspberries, rinsed (optional)
225 g
2 cups
80%
Sugar (optional)
25 g
2Tbsp
9%
® If making the optional raspberry syrup, preheat a water bath to 65 °C/ 149 °F. Otherwise, skip to step 5. © Toss together. Place in a zip-top bag, and use the water-displacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible. Seal the bag. (D Cook sous vide for 1 hour. © Strain without pressing to obtain the raspberry syrup. Measure 35 g for use in step 7.
Raspberries, rinsed
280 g
214 cups
100%
Cucumber, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced
70 g
V2 cup
25%
Piquillo peppers (canned) 57 g
Vicup
20%
Sweet onion, thinly sliced 57 g Extra-virgin olive oil 25 g
Vicup
20%
30mL/2Tbsp 3
10g
10mL/2 /fltsp
3.6%
Balsamicvinegar
5g
6 mL/lVa tsp
1.8%
Garlic clove, thinly sliced 2g Xanthan gum (optional) 0.7 g
!6tsp
0.7%
Raspberry syrup, from above (optional)
35 g
35mL/2Tbsp
Lime juice
to taste
Salt
to taste
Black pepper
to taste
156
© Combine in a blender, and puree until smooth. © Pass the puree through a sieve.
9%
White balsamic vinegar
0.25%
If you are making the raspberry syrup (which is optional), preheat a water bath to 65 "C/149 °F. If omitting the syrup, skip ahead to step 5.
I
(optional)
13%
@ Add the raspberry syrup (optional), season the soup, and serve it chilled.
Toss the raspberries in sugar, and then use the water-displacement method to seal them together in a zip-top bag while excluding as much air as possible.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Cook the raspherries sous vide for 1 hour.
Strain the cooked raspberries, without pressing, to make a clear, thin syrup. Measure 35 gfor use in step 7. Use any extra syrup as a topping for yogurt or pancakes, or freeze it for up to 6 months.
Combine the fresh raspberries, cucumber, peppers, onion, olive oil, vinegars, garlic, and xanthan gum (optional) in a blender, and puree until smooth.
Pass the puree through a sieve.
Season the soup with the raspberry syrup (optional), lime juice, salt, and pepper. Add more syrup to thin the puree or to sweeten a tart soup. Add the lime juice to brighten a sweet soup.
To serve the gazpacho, place several raspberries, a mint leaf, and finely julienned basil in each bowl, and pour the chilled soup at tableside. You can drizzle a little olive oH or almond oil on top.
SALADS A N D COLD SOUPS
157
FRUIT MINESTRONE four servings (400 g/2 cups) 4 hours overall, including 1 hour of preparation and 3 hours unattended
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE:
serve immediately advanced (complexity of timing and assembly) vacuum sealer with marinating attachment, juicer, malic acid
STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
can be made in advance and used in other ways. Serve the soup in chilled bowls, and pour the broth at the table. You can chill the minestrone even more by adding a scoop of a highquality, store-bought fruit sorbet such as lychee, raspberry, or passion fruit. If you don't have time to make the candied beans, use Chinese red beans cooked in syrup, which you can find at Asian markets or other specialty food stores.
Like any good minestrone, this fruity dessert soup is best when made with ingredients at their seasonal peak. At our cooking lab, we make a very fancy version from cucumber sorbet, vacuum-infused fruits, and shards of berries that we freeze in liquid nitrogen and then shatter. This recipe is less technically demanding, albeit one of the more complex in this book. Don't be intimidated by the number of steps; it's easier to assemble than it looks, and many of the components INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
1.5 kg
1.5 L/6V3 cups
300%
5VB cups
200%
® Combine in a large pot, stir to dissolve fully, and then slowly bring to a boil to make a syrup.
For the candied beans: Water
Sugar
1 kg «.tV-j) If|- r — ' " i , rtcr-f-
—
iig.,i:" 1,
200g Cannellini beans (canned), drained, rinsed, and cleaned of any skins or broken pieces
£ - 1 i g ifjrii»-r.-J-,|if.i
:
I
-
.
I
:
n
»
.
•
•
'
"
.«-'•• -.""T -
•
1
1 cup
40%
(D Place in a pot with 500 g of the syrup, and simmer over medium-low heatfor30 minutes. (D Pour off the syrup, replace with 500 g of fresh syrup, and simmer the beans for another 30 minutes. 0 Repeat step 3 twice more for a total simmering time of about 2 hours. The beans should turn translucent and become fudge-like. (D Cool the beans in the remaining syrup, and refrigerate them.
3 cups
100%
© Process through a juicer.
For the strawberry broth:
Strawberries, washed and hulled
500 g 1 —
Sugar
©Strain, - -— •- -
—
Lime juice
SO 8 to taste
For the infused rhubarb: Fresh red rhubarb
100 g
1 large stalk
20%
Sugar
100 g
Vicup
20%
Water
100 g
Malic acid
2g
For the cucumber rolls: English cucumber
...
...
IStirC © Season with the lime juice to make a broth, and refrigerate it.
;
100 m l . / 4 cup
20% 0.4%
• ••
® Peel the skin from the rhubarb, and reserve the peelings. ® Slice the peeled rhubarb into 6 mm/'/i in pieces. © Combine in a small pot, stir to dissolve, and bring to a boil over mediumhigh heal to make a syrup. @ Pour the warm syrup over the rhubarb slices and reserved rhubarb skins, and vacuum seal together in arigidcontainer (see page 53), ® Refrigerate until cold, at least I hour. Drain and discard the skins. The syrup may be saved for another use. I •'• Li, — —
150 g
To assemble: Cucumber rolls, from above Candied cannettini beans, from above Infused rhubarb slices, from above Kumquats, sliced Raspberries, halved 24 g Blueberries, halved 16 g Mint leaves 4g Strawberry broth, from above
- —I
250 g
1 large
30%
® Slice lengthwise, as thinly as possible, on a mandoline, to form evenly sized, rectangular sheets of cucumber. Stop when you reach the seeds. ® Roll up the sheets so that the green edges are exposed. Store the rolls, covered, in the refrigerator. •!
ows vide bag. The purpose of the bag is to capture the juice; it doesn't need to be sealed.
Mussel juices The natural juices that come out of mussels when they open are very flavorful. Chefs use mussel juice to add depth to butter sauces for fish and soups. Be sure to save any extra juices—or at least have some good bread and olive oil handy so that you don't waste any of this precious liquid.
290
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Steam the mussels for 2 minutes, plunge them immediately into the ice water, and then shuck them. Collect and strain the shucking juices (see steps 3-6 on page 286). The mussels should not be cooked through; this step simply makes them easier to shuck.
Place the strained juices and mussel meats in a zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible (see page 58), and seal the bag. Cook the mussel meats sous vide for 10 minutes.
Strain the mussels, and measure 70 g / 70 mL/ V% cup of the juices for use in step 10.
Combine the oil, shallots, and garlic in a saute pan, and cook over medium heat until the shallots and garlic are lightly browned and aromatic, about 5 minutes.
8
Add the chili flakes, and cook for a few seconds. Add the white wine, and continue cooking until the mixture turns syrupy, about 4 minutes.
10
Add the reserved mussel juice. Return the mixture to a simmer, and then remove the pan from the heat.
SHELLFISH
11
Stir in the Italian parsley, tarragon, and thyme, add the mussel meats, stir gently to coat, and then remove them from the pan to avoid overcooking them.
12
Season the dish with salt and lemon juice, and serve it immediately. Don't let the mussels sit in the hot juices for more than a few seconds, or else they will get too firm.
291
1
CLAMS IN CHOWDER SAUCE YIELD:
four servings (360 g/30-40
TIME ESTIMATE: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
1 hour overall, including 45 minutes of preparation and 15 minutes keepsfor 1 day when refrigerated moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
pressure cooker, aerolatte, whey protein isolate (optional)
STORAGE NOTES:
In this lighter take on the classic soup, clams are dressed in a warm, foamy sauce. For a more substantial dish that is closer to a typical chowder, add extra chowder broth, and stir in some caramelized onions (see page 127) and some microwave-steamed fingerling potatoes cut into bite-size pieces (see variation on page 126). VOLUME
SCALING
dams) unattended
Whey protein isolate, which we add to make the broth foamy, is a protein derived from milk. You can find it at health-food stores, but do not confuse it with sweet or flavored whey powders soldforprotein shake mixes. If you prefer more fully cooked clam meats, see the table on page 286 for sous vide time-and-temperature combinations. PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
Littleneck clams
750g/1.7lb 30-40 clams
100%
© Soak and scrub the clams as shown in steps 1-2 on page 287.
Dry white wine
150 g
150mL/#cup
20%
Shallots, thinly sliced
100 g
Icup
@ Bring a pot of water to a boil, and set a large steamer rack above the water. Arrange an ice bath alongside.
13%
© Place the clams, wine, and shallots in a heat-safe plastic bag. 0
Steam for 2 minutes, plunge the bag into the ice bath, and then shuck the clams. Collect and strain the juices (see steps 3-6 on page 287).
© Measure 240 g/245 mL/1 cup of dam juice for use in step 9. © Rinse the clam meats in cold water. Bacon, diced
36 g
Vtb prevent The starch particles an •emulsifiers, buj .the flavor ofth| dilute the cheesm Dnore pronouncedwhl We owe a 1916 patent* phosphat|| cheese is to find.
kfatand water™ e of flour, butter, JoS^rea^yslicfc hamel do act as >b. So either vou sacrifice h bechamel, or you
Chemistry to Jam^pFKraft, w h o i n . £an cheese slice. He showed thatstT Bplets mixed within the water \vl ft citrate has the same effect and 1
The cheese sauce is s m o o t h w i t h an m
You don't have to sacrifice the taste
A slight variation on the cr
intense cheese flavor, but it contains
n o make a low-calorie, nearly fat-free
recipe allows you to m a k e sandwicl
no starch. Instead, we use sodium
[mac a n d cheese. T h e secret is to p o t
slices from y o u r favorite cheeses.
citrate, an emulsifying salt, to produce
lithe cheese flavor i n t o t h e w a t e r that
see page 314
FURTHE R.'READING-iN/V/i
vwippastass&page 3-378 wo&tstable emulsions: see pages££06-213 dffl&MgMoaErnist emulsifiers: seepages 4-214-217 gjpngesesforfondue, raclette, and other uses: V2-22S
,h
I slices of.any cheese you want, the d o o r ^ y is open to fantastic grilled cheese • s a n d w i c h e s . We provide recipes for
see page 317
youuse to cook the pasta, J see pages 310 and 312
len you know howto make perfect
*
five different kinds, see page 318
W
MAC AND CHEESE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
five servings (800 g/S cups) 30 minutes overall serve pasta immediately; cheese sauce keeps for 1 week when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate sodium citrate
This recipe has been one of the most popular in Modernist Cuisine since that book appeared. Use it as a template to create your own version of a refined mac and cheese. There are so many potentially great cheese mixes and accompaniments that it was hard to pick just the six that we have space for here.
Elbow macaroni is the classic pasta for mac and cheese, but any kind of pasta works. Those varieties having a rough surface hold the sauce better. Although cheese lovers might be tempted to boost the sauce-to-pasta ratio, keep in mind that the sauce is very rich. A little goes a long way.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCAL ING
PROCEDURE
Water or milk
265 g
265 mL/lVa cups
93%
Sodium citrate
11 g 285 g
CD Combine in a pot, whisk to dissolve, and bring to a simmer over medium heat.
White cheddar c:heese, finely grated
4% 4 cups
Water
as needed fo r cooking the pasta
Dry macaroni
240 g
2 cups
100%
© Add into the simmering liquid gradually, blending each addition with an immersion blender until melted and completely smooth. (D Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
84%
© Boil until al dente according to the package directions, 5-6 minutes. (D Drain. Do not rinse the pasta. © Stir in the warm cheese sauce, and fold in any accompaniments you wist to add (see the variations below).
Salt
© Season the mac and cheese, and serve it immediately.
to taste
VARIATIONS In the variations below, substitute the cheeses listed for the white cheddar cheese at step 2, and fold in the additions listed at step 6. Mac w i t h Jack and Stilton Cheeses: 200 g / 3 cups of jack and 50 g / }A cup of Stilton Fold in: roasted bell peppers and wilted baby spinach Mac w i t h Sharp Cheddar a n d Swiss Cheeses: 200 g / 3 cups of sharp cheddar and 85 g/1 cup of Swiss Fold in: chunks of roasted apple and crispy bacon bits Mac w i t h Gorgonzola and Fontina Cheeses: 50 g / V6 cup of Gorgonzola and 235 g / 3 cups of young Fontina Fold in: walnuts and sauteed mushrooms Mac and Gruyere Cheeses: 285 g / 4 cups of Gruyere Fold in: roasted cauliflower and roasted tomatoes Mac w i t h Goat Gouda and Cheddar Cheeses: 142 g / 2 cups of goat Gouda and 142 g / 2 cups of goat cheddar Fold in: Pressure-Caramelized Onions (see page 127) and black olives
WHILE YOU'RE AT IT Broccoli w i t h Cheese Sauce Make a delicious side dish by substituting steamed broccoli for the pasta. We cut the broccoli into bite-size pieces so that i he florets are enveloped by the cheese sauce, just as pasta would be. Also try substituting cauliflower, steamed fingerling potatoes, green beans, shelled edamame, sauteed button mushrooms, baby bok choy, or Brussels sprouts.
310
Fondue At step I, substitute 2 0 0 g / 2 0 0 mL/ffccup of water and 118 g/120 m l / X A cup of dry white wine for the water. At step 2, whisk in the cheese rather than using a blender so that the fondue is appropriately stringy. For a classic Swiss interpretation, w>* tmmental cheese, and add a dash of kirsch.
M O D E R N I S T CUISINE AT HOME
1
Whisk the sodium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until fully dissolved, and then bring to a simmer.
Add the finely grated cheese, one spoonful at a time, to the simmering liquid on the stove top. Use an immersion blender to blend in each spoonful of cheese until the cheese has melted and becomes completely smooth. Set the cheese sauce aside while you cook the macaroni, or refrigerate it until you are ready to reheat it. Bring a large pot of water to a boil.
TROUBLESHOOTING TIP: If You See This, Stop If the fat and liquid start to separate (in other words, the emulsion breaks), bring the mixture to a full boil, and then continue processing with the immersion blender. The mixture should pull together. If this fails, add a spoonful of heavy cream, and try again.
Boil the macaroni until it is al dente, as instructed by the package directions, or for 5-6 minutes. Drain the pasta. Do not rinse it.
6
Stir the warm cheese sauce into the pasta. Fold in any flavor accompaniments (see the variations on the previous page for ideas). Season the mac and cheese with salt to taste. Serve it immediately.
BAKED MAC AND CHEESE YIELD:
five servings (900 g/S
cups)
TIME ESTIMATE:
45 minutes overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 15 minutes
STORAGE NOTES:
keeps for 3 days when refrigerated before baking
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
moderate
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
sodium citrate, Cheese Crumble (seepage 316)
The key to excellent baked mac and cheese is to parcook (partially cook) the macaroni just long enough to ensure that it becomes tender rather than mushy during baking. The threshold between SCALING
VOLUME
unattended
undercooking and overcooking is incredibly fine. You can substitute any of the cheese combinations from the variations on page 310 for the cheese mixture here. PROCEDURE
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
Water
as needed for cooking the pasta
Dry macaroni
200 g
V/z cups
44%
© Parcook for 2Vi minutes. © Drain. Do not rinse the pasta. © Spread the macaroni immediately into a single layer on the cold baking sheet. Cool for 5 minutes, uncovered, and then measure 450 g/3!i cups for use in step 11.
Water or milk Sodium citrate
185 g
185 mL/3/4 cup
41%
© Combine in a pot, whisk until dissolved, and then bring to a simmer over medium heat.
© Place a metal baking sheet in the freezerfor at least 30 minutes. © Preheat the oven to 260 ' C / 5 0 0 °F. ® Bring a large pot of waterto a boil.
3%
13 g 1
Vx cup
44% 19% 14%
© Gradually add to the simmering liquid, using an immersion blender to blend each addition until it has melted and is completely smooth. ® Cool slightly; the cheese should remain fluid. Measure 450 g / 2 cups of the cheese mixture for use in the next step.
450 g
2 cups
100%
@ Combine.
Dry mustard powder
0.5 g
pinch
0.1%
Cayenne pepper (optional)
to taste
Parcooked macaroni, from above
450 g
31/» cups
100%
Salt
to taste
© Fold the reserved macaroni into the warm cheese mixture, and season it to taste. ® Divide the mixture evenly into five ramekins., or pour it into one large baking dish.
Cheese Crumble see page 316
100 g
V/t cups
22%
© Sprinkle generously over the mac and cheese. © Bake until golden brown and bubbly, 13-15 minutes. Serve hot.
Gruyere cheese, grated
200 g
3 /3 cups
Cream cheese
85 g
!/3 cup
Sharp cheddar cheese, grated
65 g
Cheese mixture, from above
TO MAKE A H E A D
After cooling the macaroni in step 6, toss it in enough neutral-tasting oil to lightly coat the pasta, and refrigerate it until ready to use. The cheese sauce will keep for 1 week when refrigerated and for up to 2 months when frozen. The mac and cheese can be prepared through step 11, and then refrigerated for up to 3 days. Keep in mind that the pasta will continue to absorb moisture, so it will soften overtime. Do not top with the cheese crumble until just before baking. Baking the mac and cheese from the refrigerator will require an additional 10-12 minutes.
1
.
—
Place a metal baking sheet in the freezer to chill for at least 30 minutes. Preheat the oven to 260 "C/500 °F. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Parboil the macaroni for 2'/i minutes. Although the surface of the pasta will be cooked, the interior will still be raw and crunchy. The macaroni will finish cooking in the oven.
Drain the cooked pasta, but do not rinse it Proceed immediately to the next step.
312
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Spread the pasta into a single layer on the chilled baking sheet, and allow it to cool, uncovered, for 5 minutes. This technique efficiently cools the macaroni, but doesn't rinse any of the starch from its surface. When it has cooled, measure 450 g/3!£ cups of the pasta for use in step 11.
Whisk the sodium citrate into the water or milk in a pot until it has dissolved, and then bring the liquid to a simmer over medium heat.
P^rfJ
8
Add the cheeses into the liquid, one spoonful at a time, while the mixture simmers on the stove. Use an immersion blender to blend each spoonful until it has melted and becomes completely smooth.
.
(13 i
P ^ Cool the cheese slightly—it should remain fluid—and then measure 450 g / 2 cups for use in the next step.
10
Combine the spices with the measured cheese mixture.
ii 12
Fold the measured macaroni into the warm cheese mixture, and season it with salt to taste. Divide the mac and cheese evenly into five ramekins, or pour it into one large baking dish.
13
Sprinkle the cheese crumble generously over the top of each serving.
14
Bake until the cheese turns golden brown and bubbly, 13-15 minutes. Place the dish in a baking pan to catch any bubbling sauce and prevent burning. Serve hot.
FAT-FREE" MAC AND CHEESE five servings (750 g/4 cups) PA hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and PA hours unattended serve immediately; cheese water keeps for 5 days when refrigerated orfor up to 6 months when frozen moderate sous vide setup
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE:
STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
The flavor compounds in cheese, much like those in tea leaves and coffee beans, dissolve in water. We take advantage of that fact by cooking pasta in cheese water, a technique that transfers flavor to the macaroni and allows us to make a delicate, refined dish that contains little fat yet retains much of the robust flavor of traditional mac and cheese.
We also add pureed cauliflower, which mimics the rich mouthfeel and color of cheese sauce but doesn't weigh it down. It is easy to make cheese water, and once you've tasted it, you will probably want to make extra to keep on hand. It freezes well and makes a wonderful soup base. You can also use it as a broth for glazed spring vegetables or braised winter greens.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Water Cauliflower, thinly sliced
150 g 100 g
150 mL/H cup V/z cups
30% 20%
© Combine the cauliflower and water in a pot, and simmer until very tender, about 30 minutes. (t> Drain.
Water
500 g
Jack cheese,finelygrated 275 g Gruyere cheese, finely 275 g grated
500 mL/2V& cups 4 cups 4 cups
100% 55% 55%
Sugar
2g
Vitsp
0.4%
Dry macaroni
180 g
VA cups
36%
Salt
to taste
VARIATIONS Mac and Fontina Cheese: 550 g / 6 cups of young Fontina, finely grated Fold in: Pressure-Caramelized Onions (see page 127) or 75 g of Mushroom Puree (see page 150)
Mac and Parmesan Cheese: 550 g/9 cups of Parmesan,finelygrated Fold in: Creamed Spinach (see page 199) or thinly sliced sun-dried tomatoes
(D Puree until smooth. © Sieve, and measure 75 g/'4 cup of the cauliflower puree for use in step 12. (D Preheat a water bath to 80 0C/176°F. ® Combine together in a large (4 L/1 gal) zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag (see page 58), and seal it. © Cook sous vide for 30 minutes. ® Cool for 15 minutes at room temperature. © Strain through a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth to collect the liquid. Measure 500 g/500 mL/2V& cups of the cheese water for use in the next step. (See note on the next page on uses for cheese solids.) ® Combine with the cheese water in a medium pot, stir to dissolve, and bring to a boil over high heat. ® Stir into the boiling cheese water, and reduce the heat to medium. @ Cook until most of the cheese water has been absorbed and the macaroni is just al dente, about 7 minutes. Fold the reserved cauliflower puree into the mac and cheese. © Season the mac and cheese, and serve it warm.
Mac and Cheddar Cheese: 550 g / 8 cups of sharp cheddar,finelygrated Fold in: broccoli puree or cubes of roasted apples
1
Combine the cauliflower and water in a pot. and simmer until the cauliflower becomes very tender, about 30 minutes.
*y Drain the cauliflower. O
Blend the cauliflower into a smooth puree.
Pass the puree through a sieve, and measure 75 g/14 cup of it for use in step 12. Preheat a water bath to 80 "C/176 °F.
Combine the cheeses and the water in a large (4 L / l gal) zip-top bag. Use the waterdisplacement method (see page 58) to remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.
Cook the cheeses sous vide for 30 minutes. The end result should look a bit like curdled milk.
V
/ i^HF
. _
P &^L *^& lljI'Pf 1
f!^4 p
A
8
Remove the bag from the bath, and let it cool for 15 minutes at room temperature.
11
Stir the dry macaroni into the cheese water, and reduce the heat to medium.
12
Cook the pasta until it has absorbed most of the cheese water and is just al dente, about 7 minutes. Fold the reserved cauliflower puree into the mac and cheese.
Place a fine sieve lined with cheesecloth over a bowl, and strain the cheese-water mixture, collecting the cheese water in the bowl. Reserve 500 g / 5 0 0 mL/2V8 cups of the cheese water for use in the next step. Store the remaining cheese water in the refrigerator or freezer for another use, and see the note below for suggested ways to use the remaining cheese solids.
10
Combine the reserved cheese water and the sugar in a medium pot. Stir until the sugar dissolves, and then bring the mixture to a boil over high heat. A lot of the natural sweetness of the cheese was left behind in the cheese solids, so the pinch of sugar helps to round out the flavor.
WHILE YOU'RE AT IT: Cheese Crisps The cheese solids left over after straining the cheese water in step 9 have lost some of their flavor, but they are very tasty when dried. Spread them on a baking sheet, and bake them at 175 "C/350 °F until they turn golden, about 45 minutes. Then break them up, and use them as a garnish for baked potatoes or green salads, as part of a savory cracker, or as a substitute for the cheese crumbs in step 9 of our recipe for Cheese Crumble (see next page).
13
Season the mac and cheese with salt to taste, and serve it warm.
M A C A N D CHEESE
315
CHEESE CRUMBLE 250 g/2Vi cups VA hours overall, including 25 minutes ofpreparation and 50 minutes unattended keepsfor 2-3 days when refrigerated moderate food processor (optional), sodium citrate, tapioca starch Baked Mac and Cheese (seepage 312)
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN: INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Water
60 g 2.5 g
60mL/V4Cup
30% 1.25%
® Preheat the oven to 175 "C/350 °F.
200 g
3 cups
100%
© Add gradually to the simmering liquid. Use an immersion blender to blend each addition until it is melted and completely smooth.
100 g
%cup
50%
© Add, one-third at a time. Stir well between additions to keep the mixture smooth and moist throughout. The mixture turns thick very quickly and resembles a dough when it is finished. © While the cheese mixture is still warm, scoop it onto a silicone mat, and use a rolling pin to roll it into a thin, even sheet. © Place the mat on a baking sheet, and bake until the cheese cracker is completely dry and golden brown, 45-50 minutes. © Cool the cheese cracker, and break it into pieces. ® Grind the cheese cracker in a food processor to make fine crumbs. Alternatively, place pieces in a zip-top bag, and crush them with a rolling pin or mallet.
Gruyere cheese, finely grated
40 g
y«cup
20%
® Combine with the ground or crushed cheese crumbs. ® Store refrigerated.
Panko bread crumbs
20 g
2Tbsp
10%
Sodium citrate
Gruyere cheese, finely grated Tapioca starch
•'.
?'•
CD Combine in a pot, whisk until dissolved, and bring to a simmer.
vuv-vy
Top any au gratin dish with this cheese crumble: it goes well on scalloped potato**, green bean casserole, and Apple i-eii\ Von can substitute other firmer rwatfcheese* such «Mft*ddar oi Parmesan, for the Gruyere.
i
ff
T O MAKE AHEAD
For extended storage, keep the ground cheese crumbles from step 8 in an airtight container. Mix them with the grated Gruyere and panko bread crumbs just before you use them.
f 316
MODERNIST CUISiNf. AT H 0 M I
WHIL
RE AT IT
PERFECTLY MELTING CHEESE SLICE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS: USED IN:
500 g / 1 2 - 1 4 slices 2V4 hours overall, including IS minutes ofpreparation and 2 hours unattended keeps for 10 days when refrigerated or up to 2 months when frozen moderate sodium citrate Modernist Cheeseburger (seepage 212), Grilled Cheese Sandwiches (see the next page)
By using sodium citrate, an emulsifying salt, you can make any cheese into slices that melt as perfectly as American-style sandwich cheese does. These slices are perfect for cheeseburgers, grilled
cheese sandwiches, vegetables, apple pie, or any other dish needing a melted cheese that doesn't separate. You can either form the cheese into a thin sheet, or mold it into a cylinder or block for slicing later.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Cold wheat beer (or water)
115 g
115mL/y2Cup
57.5%
© Preheat the oven to its lowest temperature.
Sodium citrate
14 g
7%
© Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat, or lightly oil the sheet, and place it in the oven to warm while you prepare the cheese.
see page 71
© Combine in a pot, stir until dissolved, and then bring to a simmer over medium heat.
Gruyere cheese, grated
200 g
3 cups
100%
Sharp cheddar cheese, grated
180 g
3 cups
90%
© Add gradually to the simmering liquid. Use an immersion blender to blend in each addition until it has melted and is completely smooth. © Pour the liquid cheese mixture onto the warm baking sheet. Tip the sheet as needed to form an even layer. Alternatively, pour the cheese into a mold coated with cooking spray. © Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until fully set, at least 2 hours. © Cut into rounds orsquares7.5cm/3 in across. Place plastic wrap or parchment paper between the slices to prevent them from sticking together, and store refrigerated or frozen.
We developed this cheese slice technique for the Mushroom Swiss Burger recipe in Modernist Cuisine. In that version, we added a lot of additional liquid (beer!). We wanted the cheese to flow well, so we also added carrageenan, a thickener extracted from seaweed, to adjust the viscosity of the cold cheese. Since then, however, we have discovered that the carrageenan isn't necessary if you add less liquid, as we do here. The sodium citrate, on the other hand, is indispensable for preventing the cheese from separating when it melts. SPECIAL SCALING FOR THE S O D I U M CITRATE If you are scaling the yield of this recipe up or down, you can calculate how much sodium citrate to use by weighing the liquid and the grated cheeses together, and multiplying by 2.8% of the total weight. For example, when making 750 g of cheese slices, use 21 g of sodium citrate.
MAC AND CHEESE
317
GRILLED CHEESE SANDWICHES To make a great grilled cheese sandwich, generously spread batter on the exterior of the bread, assemble the sandwich, and panfry it over medium heat until die bread is golden brown and the cheese is fully melted, 2-3 minutes per side. We use a cast-iron skillet, but a countertop sandwich grill (or panini press) works well, too. tile bread should not be so thick that it detracts from the filling, bat it also needs to hold the sandwichtogether;we slice oars 1-1.5 can / */•-% in thick. To make the cheese slice recipes
Jf
here, use the instructionsforthe Perfectly Melting Cheese Slice on the previous page with the ingredients and quantities given below. You'II notice that some combinations callforless H»*n half the water ofothers; it may seem counterintuitive, but crumbly cheeses tend to bind better with less water. If you needtofinish many sandwiches in one batch, toast the slices, assemble the sandwiches, and then bake them in the oven at 190 °C / 375 °F until the cheese melts. These recipes makefoursandwiches.
Aged White Cheddar on Sourdough with Apples Sourdough bread
8 slices
Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice
8 slices
Honeycrisp apple, thinly Sliced
8 slices
or Grilled Applesauce without mustard see page 114
120 g
Vicup
Jalapenos, thinly sliced
30 g
3Tbsp
"Aged White Cheddar Cheese Slice: Water
115g
Sod iu m citrate
14 g
Aged white cheddar cheese, grated
380 g
115 mL/Vicup 6cups
Camembert and Gruyere on Brioche with Ham and Mushrooms BrioctW
8 slices
Camembert and Gruyere Cheese Slice
8 slices
Black Forest ham
8 slices
Button mushrooms, sliced and sauteed
100 g
Vicup
Dijon mustard Fried eggs
40 g 40g
ftCUp 4 eggs ^ a / % » f t
Water Camembert cheese, rind cut off
H5gg 115 14 g 190 g
Gruyere cheese, grated
190 g a
Sodium citrate
115 ml./Vi cup 114 cups 3'/J cups
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
.
Feta on Potato Bread with Vegetable Confit Potato bread
8 slices
Feta Cheese Slice
8 slices
Mediterranean Vegetable Confit
120 g
Vicup
see variation on page 126
Basil
8-12 leaves Cheese Sli
Water
38 mL/ 2y2Tbsp
Sodium citrate Feta cheese, crumbled
" g 380 g
>
7 cups
Goat Cheese on Baguette with Tomato Confit and Basil Baguette, split in half and cut into segments 10 c m / 4 in long Goat Cheese Slice
4 segments
8 slices
Tomato Confit see page 128
120 g
Vicup
Pistachio Pesto see page 102
80g
V* cup
Basil leaves
8-12 leaves
Goat Cheese Slice: Water
38 g
Sodium citrate
11 g 380 g
Bucheron goat cheese, rind cut off, crumbled
38 mL/ 2V2Tbsp 3 cups
Stilton on Walnut Bread with Shallot Marmalade Walnut bread
8 slices
Stilton Cheese. Slice
8 slices 120 g
'/2CUp
40g
8 slices Vz cup
Water
38g
38mL/2V2Tbsp
Wondra
26 g
f&Tbsp
Sodium citrate Stilton cheese, crumbled
"g 380 g
3 cups
Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade Pear, thinly sliced Celery, peeled and thinly sliced Stilton Cheese Slice:'-^'':
Shallot and Port Wine Marmalade.: Shallots, minced 200 g Olive oil 30 g Red port wine 130 g Thyme ^
~
«
| g
P/acups 35mL/2Tbsp 130 mL/ yi cup 1 sprig
Sweat the shallots in olive oil. Add the port and thyme, and then simmer over medium-low heat until tender and jam-like, about 20 minutes. Season with salt to taste.
MAC A N D CHEESE
RISOTTO AND PAELLA The time and attention necessary to make a good traditional paella or risotto can sometimes seem prohibitive. These are certainly not dishes that home cooks whip up any night for dinner. But what if we told you that you can cook paella or risotto from scratch in seven minutes flat? Or that you can parcook either one of these dishes up to three days in advance, and then finish the dish in four minutes? If you have a pressure cooker, there's no reason not to enjoy these wonderful one-pot meals more often. Both risotto and paella get their body from short-grain rice, which releases starch during cooking to produce a thick and creamy texture. And both can be made using a variety of grains and flavors, from the classic Milanese version of risotto with white wine and saffron to more exotic concoctions, such as sea urchin, cocoa, and grapefruit. Our favorite grain and flavor combinations appear on pages 330-333. Risotto and paella grains are best cooked until just al dente, not completely soft. Traditionally, you add liquid a little at a time, and then you stir constantly to create the starch slurry and keep it evenly dispersed. We discovered, however, that it works just as well to use a pressure cooker and to add all the water at once; the pressure cooker eliminates the need to stir.
THE SCIENCE OF W H Y C O O K S STIR R I S O T T O Starch, released by short-grain rice during cooking, is what thickens dishes like paella and risotto. Natural starches are composed of two types of polymers, amylose (which is better at gelling) and amylopectin (which thickens by binding up water). Plants contain differing ratios of each, which is why short-grain rice works for these dishes, but longgrain rice doesn't. Inside a plant cell, starch is typically stored inside granules, which have a layered structure like an onion. During cooking, the starch granules absorb water, swell, and become sticky. But the rice doesn't thicken until the cells burst open and release the sticky granules. That is why we stir the rice as it cooks: to break open the cells and release the starch into the cooking liquid, thereby thickening it. Continued gentle stirring then prevents lumps from forming. To see the gelling power of starch in action, allow a risotto to cool—it gels into a solid mass. There is no need to stir rice when you cook it in a pressure cooker because the process forces so much water into the starch granules and plant cells that many more of the cells burst on their own.
The biggest disadvantage of the pressure cooker is that you can't just lift the lid and taste for doneness. So we aim to undercook the rice slightly, and then we put it on the stove top for a couple of minutes to perfect the texture.
Bomba Rice with Chorizo and Broccoli-Gruyere Puree, see variation on page 333
M I
320
HIGHLIGHTS
•
4. ^^
p L J-
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18-20
— • ii i — in 4
short-grain Japanese rice
22
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13-15
—
22-25
farro r
i
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—
i
i
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f
•
i
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pearl barley quinoa steel-cut oats, rinsed
-
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28-30
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12-15
——
rpressure rooking: seepage 33
M
HOW TO Parcook and Finish Risotto and Paella
tMM&Jfr*
1
While sauteing the aromatic ingredients as described in step 1 on the previous page, freeze a metal baking sheet (or several, if you are making a large batch) for use in step 5.
Add the rice, and toast it with the sauteed aromatics until it turns shiny, golden, and nearly translucent.
Working quickly, strain the liquid from the parcooked grain, and reserve it for use in step 6.
Transfer the drained rice to the frozen baking sheet, and spread it into a thin layer to cool. Cover, and refrigerate the rice until you are ready to serve it.
Parcooking Times You can parcook rice and grains, and then refrigerate them for up to 3 days before finishing and serving. Use the times in the table below for parcooking in a pressure cooker or on the stove stop. When you are ready to finish the dish, simmer it as described in step 6 above for 2-5 minutes as a rule of thumb. In a pressure cooker
On the stove top
(min)
(min)
bomba rice
4
8
forbidden rice
7
17
risotto rices (Arborio, Vialone Nano, camaroli)
3
6
short-grain Japanese rice
2V2
4
farro
10
20-22
pearl barley
12
25
quinoa
2
7
steel-cut oats, rinsed Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: seepage 33
Add liquid, and parcook for the time indicated in the table below, stirring frequently. Alternatively, parcook in a pressure cooker at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi, for the time indicated in the table, and then quickly depressurize the cooker by running tepid water over the rim.
Just before serving, finish cooking the grain by stirring in the reserved liquid and simmering it in a pot until it becomes al dente. You may need to add a little more liquid.
Fold in any additional flavorings, season, and serve. The additions can be as simple as a bit of grated cheese and butter or as complex as vegetable purees and braised meats.
ffl
PRESSURE-COOKED PAELLA DEL BOSCO YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
four servings (400 g/2 cups, excluding snails) 25 minutes overall serve immediately; cooked rice keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated easy pressure cooker, bomha rice, pimenton duke, piquillo peppers, Brown Chicken Stock (see variation on page 85), Sous Vide Braised Snails (optional, seepage 293)
Paella has gained a reputation as a dish for special occasions because it is so time-consuming to make. But it doesn't have to be: with little more than 25 minutes of total labor, you can use this recipe to make incrediblyflavorfuland creamy Valencia-style paella. We chose to add snails because they are historically an original garnish for paella.
Cooked chicken, shrimp, crabmeat, or duck breast can all be folded into the rice instead of, or along with, the snails. For an elegant touch,finelyshave some fresh porcini mushrooms, when they are in season, over the finished dish.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Olive oil
40 g
45mL/3Tbsp
27%
Piquillo peppers (store-bought), minced
50 g
Vi cup
33%
© Sweat the vegetables i n oil in the base of a pressure cooker over medii heat until tender and translucent, about 3 minutes.
Fennel, minced
25 g
1/4 cup
17%
Sweet onion, minced
25 g
3Tbsp
17%
Carrot, minced
20 g
2Tbsp
13%
Garlic, minced
7.5 g
1 Tbsp
5%
Bomba rice (or other short-grain paella rice)
150 g
3
100%
(D Stir into the vegetable mixture, and cook until the rice turns shiny and translucent, about 2 minutes.
Brown Chicken Stock see variation on page 85
300 g
300 m L / W cups
200%
@ Stir into the rice mixture.
Dry sherry
70 g
70mL/V3Cup
47%
A cup
Pressure-cook at a gauge pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 7 minutes. Start timing when full pressure is reached.
© Depressurize the cooker. © Check the rice for tenderness. It should be a I dente. If necessary, simme uncovered for a minute or two longer. Pimenton dulce (smoked, 7 g sweet paprika)
ITbsp
Thyme leaves
1 Tbsp
2g
Saffron threads (optional)
5 threads
Salt
to taste
Sous Vide Braised Snails (optional), cut in half and warmed see page 293
200 g
Lemon zest, finely grated
to taste
© Season. 24 snails
TO MAKE A H E A D Freeze a baking sheet for at least 30 minutes. Follow steps 1-5, but pressure-cook for just 4 minutes in step 4. Drain the rice, reserving the broth. Quickly cool the rice mixture by spreading it in a thin layer on the frozen baking sheet. Refrigerate the rice and cooking liquid in separate containers for up to 3 days. To finish, combine the rice mixture and broth in a pot, and simmer until al dente, about 4 minutes. Then continue with step 7.
326
© Stir into the rice, and let rest for 1 minute.
133?
• 11
• i ii . —- .. . ,, — — Safety tipsfor pressure-cooking: seepage 33
(
i
•.
(D Fold into the paella, and serve it immediately.
DOfl '^^
M H I.
3 leaves
1%
/ Vi cup of egg whites (from about 3 eggs), and then stirring them in after step 5. Yet another option is to grind freeze-dried corn to a powder, and then roll the batter in it to yield an extremely crunchy crust and an extra burst of corn flavor. For deep-frying safety tips, see page 26.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
'•
1
Soak the dried corn husks in warm water until they become pliable, at least 30 minutes. Shake them dry. Whip the lard or butter in a stand mixer, scraping the sides of the bowl frequently, until it turns light and airy.
Add the masa harina and corn stock or water to the mixer gradually, alternating additions of the two ingredients. Mix until fully blended to make the masa batter. When the batter is properly whipped, a dollop will float in a glass of water.
Combine the fresh corn kernels, melted butter, sour cream, sugar, and salt in a food processor, and blend until evenly combined into a corn puree. The puree doesn't have to be perfectly smooth; the chopped corn kernels lend a nice texture to the tamales.
E? Fold the corn puree into the masa batter * ^ to make the tamale batter.
Place a dollop (about 70 g / 5 Tbsp) of the tamale batter in each corn husk, and wrap each one firmly. One side of each corn husk naturally forms a cup shape. Place the batter in this cup, use the natural curl of the corn husk to enclose the batter, and then fold the top of the husk down to seal the package. Tie it closed with a narrow strip of corn husk or a piece of string, if necessary.
™7 Stack the tamales, seam-side down, on a trivet or rack in a pressure cooker. Pour inwatertoadepthof2.5cm/l in. Let the cooker cool, or run tepid water over the rim, to depressurize it.
O Pressure-cook the tamales at a gauge *"* pressure of 1 bar/15 psi for 20 minutes. Start timing as soon as full pressure has been reached.
C0RNMEAL
10
Cool the tamales completely, about 2 hours, to give the starches time to gel.
11
Reheat the tamales by steaming them over boiling water for 15-20 minutes. Alternatively, microwave them, a few at a time, on full power for 1-2 minutes. Serve them hot.
341
DISHES FORT m
HHH BRHB
most underappreciated tools in the home kitchen. People criticize it for cooking unevenly. But that problem has a straightforward solution: don't cook in open containers. Instead, enclose the food in a sous vide bag or put it on a plate and cover it loosely in microwave-safe plastic wrap. An envelope of hot, moist air and steam then forms around the food and cooks it evenly as well as quickly. | Speed is not the only reason to use a microwave oven. Some of
tion of the overall effort. But they all highlight the power of the microwave oven as a precision toolforsteaming end drying. Our recipe fir Microwaved Eggplant Parmesan, for example, exploits both aspects to guarantee a creamy, rather than rubbery, texture to the wjater-laden vegetable. We use the classic technique of salting the eggplant slices to draw out excess moisture, but then
342
very tender while continuing to draw out excess moisture. This is a simpler Way to make a healthier dish that traditionally relies on deep-frying to boil off moisture. THE SCIENCE OF COOKING WITH MICROWAVES Why does frozenfoodcooked in a microwave oven become piping hot In some places yet remain frozen in others? The microwaves have a wavelength of 122 mm / 4.8 in long, so although they bounce around tile cooking chamber, they heat some spots more than others (see bod, evening out temperature differences, but this takes time. So cooking well with a microwave oven often means adjusting the power level. We tested ail our recipes OH an oven that outputs 1,100 watts. Ifyou have a 1,350 W oven wild the recipe says to cook at 1,100 W, set the power level to 80% (or level 8 if it has 10 levels) because 1,100 is about 80% of1,350. You canfindthe power output in the oven manual or marked somewhere on the oven itself.
HIGHLIGHTS
pis^^n
Dense leafy greens contain a lot of moisture, so they lend themselves well to microwave cooking. You can use your microwave oven to make Sichuan bok choy that is perfect—and fast.
The microwave is such an efficient dehydrator that you can dry beef jerky in four minutes rather than 12-24 hours.
Fancy up your fried fish and other crispy dishes with perfectly flat, fried herbs. see page 354
see page 350 ;jm^
No need to heat the #hole oven to bake a sponge cakejjjust aerate the batter with a whipping siphon, and then dispense it intcfa paper cup. see page 356
see page 346 FURTHER READING IN MODERNIST
CUISINE
The physics of cooking with microwaves: see pages 2-192-184 Myths about microwave cooking, and how not to do Responsible things with a microwave: seepage 2-190 How to use a microwave oven to make puffed snacks: seepage 4-302
MICROWAVED EGGPLANT PARMESAN four servings (850 g) 45 minutes overall keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated or up to 6 months whenfrozen moderate
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
50 g
jfccup
15%
© Preheat the oven to 175 °C/350°F.
Parmigiano-Reggiano, grated
50 g
3
15%
© Toss together, spread evenly on a baking sheet, and toast until the cheese and bread crumbs turn golden, about 10 minutes. Reserve the crumbs for use in step 12.
Italian eggplant, peeled and sliced 6 mm/!/4 in thick
330 g
12 slices (from 1 eggplant)
100%
© Arrange the eggplant slices in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate lined with paper towels, sprinkle with the salt, and cover with additional paper towels.
Salt
2g
Vitsp
0.6%
© Microwave at 1,100 W for 3 minutes. Work in batches if necessary.
Olive oil
50 g
55mL/!4cup
15%
© Brush the eggplant slices with olive oil on both sides, place them on a clean plate, and seal them with microwave-safe plasticwrap.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
Panko bread crumbs
Acup
© Microwave at 1,100 W until fully tender, about 4 minutes. Marinara sauce see page 112 Full-fat ricotta cheese
400 g
iy« cu|
121%
©
Spread a generous spoonful of marinara sauce across the bottom of a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 c m / 5 in square.
150 g
ye cup
45%
Lay four slices of the cooked eggplant over the sauce.
Fresh mozzarella, thinly sliced
150 g
1 cup
45%
© ©
Basil leaves, torn
10 g
Vicup
3%
Salt
to taste
® ®
Top the eggplant with one-third of the basil and cheeses. Lightly salt if desired. Top with another generous spoonful of marinara sauce. Repeat steps 8-10 twice more, and top with remaining marinara sauce.
@ Sprinkle the toasted bread and cheese crumbs over the assembled dish.
©
1
Preheat the oven to 175 " c / 3 5 0 *F. Toss the bread crumbs and cheese together, spread them on a baking sheet, and toast them until they turn golden, about 10 minutes. Set the cheesy bread crumbs aside for use in step 12.
344
Microwave at 1,100 W until hot in the center and bubbly on the sides, 5-6 minutes. Serve immediately.
Arrange the slices of eggplant in a single layer on a microwave-safe plate lined with paper towels. Sprinkle them with the salt, and then cover them with additional paper towels. Microwave the eggplant at 1,100 W for 3 minutes; add more time if your oven is less powerful than this. The paper towels absorb steam, so the eggplant doesn't get soggy. Work in batches if necessary; do not stack slices on top of one another.
M O D E R N I S T CUISINE AT HOME
Brush the cooked slices with olive oil on both sides, place them on a dean microwave-safe plate, and seal them tightly with plasticwrap, which traps the steam produced during cooking. Use only plastic wrap specifically rated for microwaving. Microwave the slices at 1,100 W until they are tender all the way through, about 4 minute*. If they are still slightly rubbery, cook for up to 2 minutes more. Spread a generous spoonful of marinara sauce evenly across the bottom of a microwave-safe dish that is 12.7 c m / 5 in square and 5 c m / 2 In deep.
8
Arrange four slices of cooked eggplant on the sauce in a single layer.
13
Top the eggplant with one-third of the ricotta, sliced mozzarella, and basil. Add a little salt to taste, but it may already be quite salty. You can use scissors to snip the basil.
10
Spread another generous spoonful of marinara sauce over the top.
11
Repeat steps 8-10 two more times to build three layers. Spread any extra marinara sauce over the top.
12
Sprinkle the cheesy bread crumbs generously on top.
Microwave again at 1,100 W until the food is hot in the center and bubbly on the sides, 5-6 minutes. The sauce may bubble over, so it's a good idea to place a plate underneath the dish.
"
DISHES FOR THE MICROWAVE
«
*
3 45
SICHUAN BOKCHOY
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
four servings (350 g/four 10 minutes overall serve immediately easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
black bean and chili paste, Shaoxing wine, Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil (seepage 118)
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES:
heads ofbok choy)
This is such a practical and fast way to cook vegetables perfectly. Sealing the produce in a plastic bag captures steam to help the microwave do the cooking. If you can't find black bean and chili paste, replace it with a combination of garlic black bean sauce and
sambal ulek, a salt-cured chili sauce (use a 2:1 ratio by weight). Alternatively, use our Korean Wing Sauce (see page 260) or 100 got our Pressure-Caramelized Peanut Sauce with some extra minced lemongrass (see page 111) to obtain a different set of flavors.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Hoisin sauce (Lee Kum Kee brand)
20 g
20mL/4tsp
7%
© Combine in a pot, and bring to a simmer.
Fermented black bean and chili paste (Lee Kum Kee brand)
15 g
ITbsp
5%
Shaoxing wine
8g
9 m L / 2 tsp
Soy sauce
5g
4mL/%tsp
Toasted-sesame oil
1g
lmL/Wtsp
2.6% 1.7% 0.3%
Baby bok choy, cleaned and halved
300 g
4 medium heads
100%
© Place in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it.
Water
50 g
50mL/Vicup
17%
© Microwave it at 1,100 W for 2 minutes, and then let it rest for 2 minutes in the bag.
® Set aside to cool slightly.
© Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake off any excess water, and arrange it on plates. Sous Vide Spiced Chili Oil 10 g see page 118 Salt to taste
10mL/2V4tsp
3.3%
© Season the bok choy with the spicy sauce, chili oil, and salt. Serve it hot
VARIATIONS Bok Choy Medley Baby bok choy, halved
A u t u m n Flavors Bok Choy 300 g
4 medium heads
Baby bok choy, halved
Pressure-Cooked Barley, warmed 60 g see page 184
4Tbsp
Broccoli-Gruyere Puree see variation on page 181
Iberico ham, sliced paperthln
40 g
8 pieces
24 e
Cauliflower florets
32 g
8 florets
Romanesco cauliflower florets
32 g
8 florets
Pickled Honeycrisp apple, finely diced see page 130
Brussels sprout leaves
12 g
12-16 leaves
Comte cheese, grated
8g
4tsp
Spinach Butter, warm see variation on page 121
ITbsp
Hazelnut oil
4 g
12g
-1 ml 1 tsp
Meyer lemon zest, grated
1g
1 tsp
Follow steps 3-5 above to cook the bok choy. Spoon the warm broccoli puree onto the plate, and garnish with the pickled apple. Sprinkle the grated cheese and hazelnut oil over the top.
Deep-fry both kinds of cauliflower florets in 175 °C/350 'T neutral frying oil until golden, about 10 minutes. Blanch the Brussels sprout leaves for 60 seconds In boiling water, and then immediately plunge them into an ice-water bath. Follow steps 3-5 above to cook the bok choy. Take apart the cooked bok choy leaves. Arrange the bok choy leaves, ham, barley, and vegetables artfully on plates. Drizzle the spinach butter over the top, garnish with the lemon zest, and season with salt.
300 g 60 g
4 medium heads V-i' cup
Tb5
M i c r o w a v e d Potato Saiad Small fingerling potatoes
400 g
'...lips
Water
IS 8 55 g
ITbsp
Red onion, minced Bacon Mayonnaise see variation on page 108
55g
Dijon mustard
L5g to taste
Salt
tytitp 1
i cup
DtTbsp
Place the potatoes and water in a zip-top bag, and microwave at 1,100 watts until tender, about 4 minutes. Allow to cool, and slice into coins 1 in thick. Combine with the onion, mayonnaise, and mustard. Season with salt to taste. Garnish with Pressure-Cooked Pickled Mustard Seeds (see page 125) and crispy bacon bits.
1
Combine the hoisin sauce, black bean and
Remove the sauce from the heat, and allow
Place the cleaned bok choy halves and the
chili paste, wine, soy sauce, and sesame oil
it to cool slightly.
water in a zip-top bag. Remove as much
in a pot, and bring the mixture to a simmer.
air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Alternatively, arrange the bok choy on a microwave-safe plate, add water, and then tightly cover the plate w i t h microwave-safe plastic wrap.
Remove the bok choy from the bag, shake Microwave the bok choy at 1,100 W f o r 2 minutes (or at full power for a bit longer, if your oven is less powerful than this), and then let it rest for 2 minutes in the bag or plastic wrap. If you're using
off any excess water from it, and arrange it on plates.
a microwave-safe dish, cooking may take an extra minute. Microwave ovens vary widely in their power output, so check the power of yours before cooking, and adjust the power level or cooking
Season the bok choy with the spicy sauce,
time accordingly.
chili oil, and salt. Serve it hot.
Best Bets for Cooking Vegetables in the Microwave Oven All of the recipes in this chapter were tested by using a 1,100 w a t t m i c r o wave oven at full power, unless indicated otherwise. The t i m e required t o cook vegetables in a microwave depends o n the thickness t o w h i c h you
cut t h e m , as well as on their density and water c o n t e n t Drier vegetables cook more evenly if you seal the vegetables in a bag or under microwavesafe plastic wrap on a plate w i t h a little water. Time (min)
Technique
Ingredients
Preparation
Procedure
cooking root vegetables
beets, carrots, celery root, potatoes, turnips
w hole
vacuum seal, or arrange on a plate and seal with microwave-safe plastic wrap; cook medium beets for 6 minutes, and rub off the skin
3-7
cooking leafy greens
bok choy, broccoli, cabbage
whole
place in a zip-top bag with 50 m L / V* cup of water; alternatively, arrange in a microwave-safe dish with 2 m m / Vw in of water, and cover w i t h microwave-safe plastic wrap
2-5
cooking bulbs and fibrous vegetables
artichokes, cardoon, celery, fennel, leeks, onions
w hole
vacuum seal
2-5
D I S H E S FOR T H E M I C R O W A V E
347
MICROWAVED BLACK COD WITH SCALLIONS AND GINGER two servings (450 g) IS minutes overall serve immediately easy
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
This recipe was adapted from Margaret Lu, the mother ofJohnny Zhu, one of the development chefs at The Cooking Lab. Mrs. Lu originally made the dish with tilapia. Johnny adapted it to cod, but
you can substitute halibut fillets or small whole snapper, rockfish, trout, black sea bass, pomfret, or sole for the black cod. Fishes differ a bit in their densities, so you may need to adjust the cooking time.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Black cod, skin on
450g/llb
2 fillets
100%
® Place each fillet in a separate, microwave-safe zip-top bag, and th en place each one, skin-side down, on a microwave-safe plate.
Scallion, white parts only, 25 g julienned
5-6 scallions
5.6%
© Combine, and mound half on top of each fillet in the bag.
Ginger, peeled and cut into coins
10 g
2-3 coins
2.2%
Shaoxrngwine
5g
5mL/l]/4tsp
1%
Soysauce
25g
20 mL/4i/4 tsp
5.6%
© Pour half of the wine into each bag.
3
Toasted-sesame oil
2g
2mL/ /atsp
0.4%
Scallion, green parts only, finely julienned
10 g
3/i cup
2.2%
Ginger, peeled and finely julienned
3g
ITbsp
0.7%
Peanut oil
50 g
55 m L / 3 # Tbsp
11%
Microwave each fillet at 800 W until the fish becomes opaque and flakes easily, 3Vi-5 minutes, and then remove it from the bag, and scrape off the scallion and ginger. If your microwave oven is more powerful than 800 W, lower the power level accordingly.
© Combine, and pour half of the mixture evenly over each fish fillet.
© Garnish each cooked fillet.
© Heal in a small pan to 190 *C/374 t T. © Drizzle the hot peanut oil over the garnished fish. Serve immediately.
VARIATIONS M i c r o w a v e d Sea Bass, Tilapia, H a l i b u t , o r Sole To make this recipe with other kinds offish, use the cooking times given below.
Aromatic M i c r o w a v e d Cod For a more intensely aromatic dish, combine the Shaoxing wine with 10 g / 4 tsp of minced ginger and 25 g / 4 tsp of minced scallion, white parts only. Rub the mixture gently and evenly all over the surface of each fillet, and then place the fillets in bags as directed in step 1. Continue at step 3.
V
z*J l|N«M< i
366
'ttm
Vegetarian Panna Cotta Substitute a mixture of 0.8 g agar and 0.6S g xanthan gum for the gelatin. Alternatively, use a mixture of 0.65 g of iota carrageenan and 0.5 g of kappa carrageenan. These gelling agents are derived from seaweed or bacterial fermentation; whereas gelatin is made from animal sources, such as pig or fish skin. For more details on making gels, see page 98.
1
Sprinkle the gelatin over the cold milk.
O ~*
Let stand for 5-10 minutes to soften the gelatin.
Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium-low heat until the gelatin dissolves completely.
O
Blend together the cream, raspberry puree, sugar, and salt, and then mix with the softened gelatin
*^
and milk in a pot.
Strain the mixture through a fine sieve.
Cool the panna cotta to room temperature, and then divide it evenly into six small bowls, about 60 g per serving.
Cover the bowls, and refrigerate them unti the panna cotta is fully set, at least 5 hours. Setting for 8 hours is preferable. Garnish with fresh raspberries or other seasonal fruit.
C U S T A R D S A N D PIES
367
SOUS VIDE VANILLA CREME ANGLAISE YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
six to eight servings (775 g/3 cups) 1 hour overall, including IS minutes of preparation and 4S minutes unattended keeps for 3 days when refrigerated easy sous vide setup
Creme anglaise is a thin custard that has myriad uses: transform it into a rich milk shake, pour it overfreshberries, or churn it into unctuous ice cream. The classic stove-top method for making it is laborious; cook it sous vide instead, and you can do other things while it cooks. The custard turns out just as smooth.
We chose vanilla seeds to use in this recipe because of the intense flavor they lend to the custard. Vanilla lovers may even want to double the amount of seeds used. But you can substitute many other kinds of flavorings for the vanilla- Try foaming creme anglaise in a whipping siphon to make an ethereal garnish to fresh fruit or apple pie.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Whole milk
500 g
520 mL/2Vfe cups
100%
© Preheat a water bath to 83 "C/18TT.
Egg yolks, blended
150 g
5
/e c u p / 8-10 yolks
30%
(D Whisk together, and spoon off any foam.
Heavy cream
63 g
70mL/5Tbsp
13%
Sugar
63 g
5 Tbsp
13%
® Pour into a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 58). and seat it.
Vanilla seeds
1.8 g
from 1-2 pods
0.36%
© Cook sous vide for 45 minutes.
- ^
© Remove the bag from the water bath, and immerse it in ice water until the mixture has cooled completely. © Puree the mixture until smooth by using an immersion blender. © Pass the creme through a fine sieve, and serve it warm or cold.
*
Vanilla and its extract Vanilla is the oily residue that coats the tiny seeds of a tropical orchid grown in Tahiti, Madagascar, the Seychelles, and Mexico. For the best flavor, the seedpods should be plump and a bit moist inside. Vanilla extract is made by Infusing the seedpods in alcohol. You can substitute vanilla extract for the vanilla seeds in this recipe, but we find that the flavor is not as good as when using the seeds.
368
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
\ ^ _ ^ _
1
Preheat a water bath to 83 "C/181 °F.
Whisk the milk, egg yolks, cream, sugar, and vanilla seeds together. Try not to create bubbles; if foam appears on the surface, spoon it off.
Pour the custard into a zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 58), and seal it.
Cook sous vide for 45 minutes.
Pass the creme through a fine sieve, and serve it warm or cold. The vanilla seeds tend to settle over time, so stir or blend as needed before serving.
Remove the bag from the water bath, and immerse it in ice water until the mixture has cooled completely.
VARIATION: Sabayon In Italian cuisine, a light foam stabilized by an egg yolk custard is called a zabaglione and often contains marsala wine or another alcohol. In France, it is called sabayon and is made without alcohol. To make it, pour 150 g/^a cup of blended egg yolks (about 10 yolks) into a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag, and seal it. Cook sous vide in a 70 °C/158 °F water bath for 35 minutes. Blend the cooked yolks while they are still warm with 50 g/Vi cup ofsugarandl75g/180 m L / % cup of milk, water, or fruit juice. Cool, and then pour into a whipping siphon. Charge with three cartridges of nitrous oxide, and shake. Dispense the foam immediately, or refrigerate it in the siphon.
CUSTARDS A N D PIES
L
Puree the mixture until smooth by using an immersion blender.
369
PISTACHIO GILATO YIELD: TIME ESTlflpTE: STORAGE NOTtS: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUflttMENTS:
eight servings (i kg/4 cups) 5 hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 4Vi hours unattended best when served within 24 hours', keepsfair up tut 1 week when frozen moderate tee-cream machine, tapioca starch, xanthan gum, pistachio butter, pistachio oil
This gelato has become a signature dish from Modernist Cuisine-, we serve it at most of our events. Vegans particularly enjoy it because His as smooth and intense as the best gelato, but contains no eggs or dairy. A side benefit of thatfeatureis that the gelato can be melted and safely rechurned if it freezes too hard. You may find that you need to warm the gelatofor10 minutes before serving it if it has been in the freezerfor24 hours or more. JttGJtDIEN* Cold water
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
680 g
680 ffll/29h cups
100%
Sugar
155 g
3
Tapioca starch
25g
Salt Xanthan gum , (Bob's Red Mill brand) Pistachio butter, pure (Brpnte Sicilian, PreCel brand) Pistachio oil (Castelmuro brand)
7g 0.3 g
PROCEDURE
•
• •
© M e a s u r e into a pot. CD Combine.
A cup Vicup
(D Blend into the cold water gradually by using an i i m m s i m bhtraki.
3
1 /4tSp
0.04% 3
210 g
tlie recipe works with any kind of nut butter, whether you buy it commercially or make your own by using a powerful Mender, such as a Vitamix. The variations listed below are just a starting point; cashew and almond butters also make delicious gelati. Use the h ighest-quality nut butter you canfind.For pistachio gelato, it is crucial to use 100% pistachio butter that has no coloring or other additives.
/4cup
Bring to a boil while blending constantly.
(D Remove the pot from the heat. © Blend into the mixture until thoroughly combined. ® Chill the mixture over an ice bath.
102 g
110mL/!/2Cup
15%
® Chum the mixture in an ice-cream machine until it freezes and t h ickens, about 30 m i n u tes. © Cover the tup of t he gelato with plastic wrap, and freeze It in a seal container until firm, at least 4 hours.
VARIATIONS Hazelnut Gelato Substitute hazelnut butter and hazelnut oil for the pistachio butter and p l H t l i l u oil. Because of its high fat content, hazelnut gelato does not look at smooth as pistachio gelato does, but its mouthfeel is just as creamy.
Strawberry Macadamia Gelato Substitute fresh strawberry juice for the water, Wld substitute raw macada m ia batter and raw macadamia ON for the pistachio butter and pistachio oil. It is important to use raw nut butter in this case because the flavor of roasted nut butter dashes with that of the strawberry j u ice.
Measure the Water into a pot Combine the sugar, tapioca starch) salt,
and xanthan gum. Dryblending the flrtcV ening agents helps to ensure that they are distributed evenly in the next step. Blend the dry ingredients into the water by using an immersion blender. I
Bring the mixture to a boil while blending constantly. Remove the pot from the heat.
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
P. B.& J. Gelato Substitute peanut butter and roasted pear oil for the pistachio butter and pistachio oil, and substitute either fresh strawberry juice or fresh Concord grape Juke far the water. Reduce the amount of sugar used to125g/ s /flCup.
Blend the pistachio butter and pistachio oil gradually into the pot until thoroughly combined. Use an immersion blender.
Chill the mixture over an ice bath. Whisk the mixture occasionally to help it cool evenly.
1 f
\
^
k Transfer the mixture to an ice-cream machine, and churn it until it thickens and freezes.
i
Hy^&^t
Transfer the gelato to a container, press plastic wrap onto the surface of the gelato, and seal the container. Then place it in the freezer until the gelato is firm, at least 4 hours. The plastic wrap prevents a skin from forming on the gelato. You may need to temper the gelato at room temperature slightly before serving it.
Jf
C U S T A R D S A N D PTES
*:"
fc*
MA
FLAKY PIE CRUST YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE: STORAGE NOTES: LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY: SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
475 g of crust (enough for one 30 cm/12 in pie orfour 11 cm/4Vi in tarts) 2Vi hours overall, including 30 minutes of preparation and 2 hours unattended keeps for up to 3 days when refrigerated and 3 months when vacuum sealed and frozen moderate sous vide setup, food processor, almond flour
We tested more than 40 versions of sweet pastry crust (pdte sucree) and tart crust {pate sablee). This recipe combines the advantages of both kinds of dough and was the best by far. It includes a little almond flour and yields a sweet, delicate, and buttery crust that SCALING
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
Egg yolks, blended
50 g
3'/2Tbsp/3-4yolks 25%
goes well with any tart or pie—although it pairs especially well with velvety custard fillings (see page 375). The recipe is easily adapted to create excitingflavorvariations; we've included some of our favorites below. PROCEDURE © Preheat a water bath to 67 "C/153 °F. (D Place the yolks in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 58), and seal it. ® Cook the yolks sous vide for 45 minutes.
All-purpose flour
200 g
V/i cups
100%
3
83%
Acup
© Combine in a food processor, and pulse until blended to the texture of corn meal.
Unsalted butter, very cold, diced
165 g
Powdered sugar
80 g
% cup
40%
© Continue processing in pulses until the dough begins to cohere.
Almond flour (Bob's Red Mill brand)
30 g
3
15%
© Shape the dough into a thick disk, wrap it with plastic, and refrigerate it for at least 1 hour.
Salt
4g
ltsp
2%
© Preheat the oven to 190 °C/375°F.
Baking powder
2g
Vz tsp
1%
© Roll the dough into a circle about 5 c m / 2 in wider than the diameter \ of the pie pan. If making smaller tarts, divide the dough into four equal pieces, and roll out each one separately.
© Add the cooked egg yolks gradually while processing. /B cup
® Line the pan with the dough; allow excess dough to hang over the edges © Prick the dough all over with a fork, and then cover it with parchment paper, and fill it with baking beads or dried beans. © Bake until golden brown, about 12 minutes for a single piecrust or 8-9 minutes forfour smaller tart crusts. © Remove the beans and parchment. Bake 2-3 minutes more if needed. ® Cool to room temperature, and then trim excess crust from the edges.
VARIATIONS D o u b l e A l m o n d Crust At step 5, add 2.5 g / % tsp of almond extract. Brown Butter Crust At step 4, substitute frozen chunks of brown butter (see page 119) for half of the unsalted butter. Gingerbread Crust At step 4, add 53 g/G'/t Tbsp of Autumn Spice Mix (see page 138). Peanut Crust At step 4, substitute finely ground, roasted peanuts for the almond flour, and add 40 g / 3 Tbsp of smooth peanut butter.
Carrot Crust Increase the amount of egg yolks to 63 g / X A cup (about 4 yolks). Add 70 g/?« cup of freeze-dried carrot powder at step 4. Cheese Crust At step 4, add 60 g / 7M cup of shredded Parmesan cheese, and reduce the amount of powdered sugar to 20 g / 3 Tbsp. Coconut Crust Increase the amount of blended egg yolks to 6 3 g / ' / i cup, and add 70 g/7« cup of coconut cream powder at step 4.
Raspberry Crust Increase the amount of blended egg yolks to 63 g / V* cup (about 4 yolks). Add 70 g j'fi cup of Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder {see page 377) at step 4. Chocolate Crust Increase the amount of blended egg yolks to 6 8 g / ^ $ T b s p (4-5 yolks). At step % add 18614 I'-, cups olfinely chopped dark chocolate, 80 g / 8 Tbsp of granulated sugar, 34 g / $i cup of Outch-processed cocoa powder, and 2%/yk tsp of vanilla extract Substitute baking soda for the baking powder. Alstep 12, add 1-2 minutes to the baking time, Take extra care when removing the parchment paper in step 13.
To keep a pie shell crisp, brush a thin coat of melted cocoa butter onto the interior of the piecrust, and allow the fat to solidify at room temperature before you fill the shell with pastry cream. The layer of cocoa fat forms a moisture barrier that prevents the piecrust from getting soggy.
1
Preheat a water bath to 67 °C/153 °F.
Place the egg yolks in a zip-top bag. Remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement m e t h o d (see page 58), and seal it. You can skip this step and the next, but using raw yolks w i l l cause the crust to shrink and tighten more as it bakes.
Cook the egg yolks sous vide for 45 minutes.
Combine the flours, diced butter, p o w dered sugar, salt, and baking powder in a
Drizzle in the egg yolks while pulsing the
Continue processing in pulses until the
food processor, and pulse until the mixture
f o o d processor.
dough starts to bind. Although it looks
takes on the texture of cornmeal.
very dry, it will eventually cohere.
JGWEF
8
10
Form the dough into a ball, flatten it to a
Roll the dough into a circle 3 m m / V a i n
thick disk, and wrap it tightly with plastic
thick and about 5 c m / 2 in larger than the
wrap. Refrigerate it for at least 1 hour t o
pie pan. If making smallertart crusts, divide
edges of the pan. Press the dough firmly
allow the gluten to rest and the butter
the dough into four equal parts, and roll
into the interior edges of the pan. If you
to harden.
out each one separately. If the dough sticks,
will not be baking the crust immediately,
roll it out between t w o sheets of plastic or
store it in the refrigerator.
Preheat the oven to 190 °C/375 °F.
Prick the dough all over with a fork. Press a protective layer of parchment paper over it. Fill the pan with baking beads or dry beans, and press them against the walls so that the dough doesn't droop while baking.
Line the pan with the dough. Do not trim any excess dough; let it drape over the
parchment, or chill briefly in the refrigerator.
12
Place the tart pan on a baking sheet,
13
Remove the beans and parchment carefully. If the crust still looks slightly wet, bake it for an additional 2-3 minutes.
and bake the crust until it turns golden brown, about 12 minutes for a single piecrust or 8-9 minutes for four smaller tart crusts. Rotate the pie a half-turn midway through baking.
C U S T A R D S A N D PtES
L_
»«Ay re
14
Cool the crust to room temperature, and then trim any excess crust from the margins o f the pan.
373
SOUS VIDE VANILLA-CINNAMON PASTRY CREAM
STORAGE NOTES:
500 g/2 cups;fillsone 23 cm/9 inpiecrustorfour 11 cm/4V2 in tart shells; half-fills one 30 cm/12 in piecrust 23A hours overall, including IS minutes ofpreparation and 2Vi hours unattended keeps for up to 2 days when refrigerated
LEVEL OF DIFFICULTY:
easy
SPECIAL REQUIREMENTS:
sous vide setup
YIELD: TIME ESTIMATE:
Pastry cream, or crime pdtissiere, is the workhorse of custards. Traditional recipes for it are heavy on starch, which stabilizes the egg yolk emulsion but dilutes the taste and coarsens the texture. This recipe dodges those problems by cooking the egg yolks sous
vide before they are blended into a cream infused with cinnamon and vanilla. Our approach eliminates the risk of curdling the custard and also opens up a virtually endless variety offlavorand texture combinations, some of which are presented on the next page.
INGREDIENT
WEIGHT
VOLUME
SCALING
PROCEDURE
Heavy cream
100 g
HOmL/Vacup
100%
® Preheat a water bath to 80 °C/176 °F.
3
Whole milk
lOOg
100mL/ /ocup
100%
Sugar
64 g
5Tbsp
64%
(D Combine in a pot, and whisk over medium-low heat until the sugar and salt dissolve completely.
Cinnamon stick
3g
1 stick
3%
® Refrigerate for 2 hours.
Vanilla seeds, scraped from the bean
lg
VA tsp/from 1 bean
Salt
0.3 g
pinch
0.3%
Egg yolks, blended and strained
200 g
y4 cup/11-12 yolks
200%
1%
Remove and discard the cinnamon stick.
(D Place in a zip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the water-displacement method (see page 58), and seal it. © Cook sous vide for 35 minutes. © Puree immediately in a blender. ® Add the infused milk and cream gradually while blending.
Unsalted butter, softened 50 g
1
!4cup
Preheat a water bath to 80 *C /176 °F. Combine the cream, milk, sugar, cinnamon stick, vanilla seeds, and salt in a pot, and whisk over medium-low heat until the sugar and salt dissolve completely.
50%
® Increase the blender speed to high, add the softened butter, and blend until smooth and creamy. ® Serve the custard warm or cold.
Remove and discard the cinnamon stick. Optionally, sieve the liquid to remove the vanilla seeds.
Refrigerate the mixture for 2 hours to infuse it with the cinnamon and vanilla.
374
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Place the blended and strained egg yolks into a rip-top bag, remove as much air as possible from the bag by using the waterdisplacement method (see page 58), and seal it.
Puree the yolks immediately at low speed in a blender. If you cannot puree the yolks immediately, be sure to keep them warm, or else the pastry cream will become slightly grainy.
Cook the egg yolks sous vide for 35 minutes. The yolks will be firm and fully set after cooking.
8
Add the mixture of infused milk and cream to the blender gradually as it continues to run at low speed.
Increase the blender speed to high, and add the softened butter. Scrape down the sides of the blender if necessary. Continue blending until the mixture becomes smooth and creamy. You can optionally sieve the custard after blending it.
10
The custard can be served warm or cold. It will thicken as it cools. To prevent a skin from forming, press plastic wrap directly onto the custard before storing it.
VARIATIONS Amaretto Pastry Cream Omit the cinnamon stick and vanilla seeds. At step 8, add 5 g / 6 mL/V4 tsp of amaretto liqueur. Lemon Pastry Cream Substitute 7.5 g/2V2Tbsp of grated lemon zest (from 2 lemons) for the cinnamon stick and vanilla seeds. At step 8, add 4 g of citric acid. Coconut Pastry Cream Substitute unsweetened coconut cream or coconut milk for the heavy cream and milk, increase the amount of sugar to 80 g / V i cup, and omit the cinnamon stick and vanilla seeds. At step 9, usejust20g/2Tbspofsoft, unsalted butter. Ginger Pastry Cream At step 2, omit the cinnamon stick and vanilla seeds, reduce the amount of sugar to 57 g / 5!£ Tbsp, and add 100 g / ty cup of minced candied ginger, 0.5 g / Vi tsp of ground ginger powder, and 0.1 g/Vhtsp of freshly ground black pepper. At step 4, sieve the infused milk and cream mixture before adding it to the blender. Cheese Pastry Cream This savory variation makes an excellent cheese dip or unsweetened filling for cream puffs. At step 2, omit the sugar, cinnamon stick, and vanilla seeds, and use an immersion blender to gradually blend 200 g / 2 cups of shredded Gruyere cheese into the hot milk and cream until it is smooth and completely melted. Cool the cheese mixture just to room temperature; it will solidify if refrigerated. Continue at step 5.
Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream Pourl50g/165 m L / % cup of heavy cream and 150 g/150 ml_/2/3 cup of whole milk into a whipping siphon, and add 120 g/TVs cups of whole, dark-roast coffee beans. Charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and then refrigerate it for 4 hours. Release the pressure on the siphon slowly; do not dispense the cream. Strain the coffee-infused cream into a saucepan, and then continue with step 1, omitting the cinnamon stick and vanilla seeds. If you do not have a siphon, simply refrigerate the coffee beans in the cold liquid for 12 hours, strain, and then continue at step 1. Chocolate Pastry Cream Omit the cinnamon stick, vanilla seeds, and butter. At step 2, combine the milk, sugar, and salt (but not the cream) with 100 g/^s cup of finely chopped dark chocolate and 24 g / V% cup of Dutch-processed cocoa powder in the top of a double boiler. Whisk the mixture over medium heat until smooth and completely melted. Cool the mixture to room temperature. Continue at step 5. At step 8, blend the chocolate mixture gradually into the cooked egg yolks, and then gradually add the heavy cream. Add additional cream as needed to adjust the consistency of the custard.
Add the gelatin to the milk or cream while the liquid is cold, and then melt it over medium heat. For more information, see Working with Gelatin, page 366.
CUSTARDS A N D PIES
L
Firm Pastry Cream You can make a firmer custard by adding gelatin. Use 1 g of Knox brand powdered gelatin for every 500 g of pastry cream; the recipe above, for example, yields 500 g, so would require 0.9 g of gelatin. To soften the gelatin, mix it into an additional 20 g / 2 0 mL/lV^Tbsp of cold cream or milk, and then warm the mixture over low heat until the gelatin melts completely. At step 9, add the melted gelatin mixture along with the butter. If using as a pie filling, pour the custard into the crust immediately after step 9, and then refrigerate the pie until fully set, at least 3 hours.
375
Coconut Cream Pie
PIE TOPPINGS O u r a p p r o a c h t o m a k i n g pies is s i m p l e b u t p o w e r f u l : w e m i x a n d m a t c h d i f f e r e n t bases a n d t o p p i n g s t o create m y r i a d d e l i cious c o m b i n a t i o n s . T h e s w e e t garnishes d e s c r i b e d b e l o w c a n be used t o accentuate t h e pies o n pages 3 7 8 - 3 7 9 o r any o f t h e o t h e r desserts in this chapter.
Passion Fruit Glaze
Apple Foam Granny Smith apple juice 200 g Powdered gelatin (Knox brand)
2.4 g
Fresh lime juice
to taste
Sugar
to taste
Salt
to taste
200 mL/Jfecup
Passion fruit puree (Perfect Puree of Napa Valley brand)
20 g
Xanthan gum
1.5 g
4 tsp
Blend together until thickened. You can also make the puree from scratch by passing fresh passion fruit pulp through a sieve.
Measure 20 g / 2 0 m L / 4 tsp of the cold apple juice in a small dish, and sprinkle the gelatin into it. Wait several minutes for the gelatin to soften, and then warm the mixture over low heat until the gelatin melts. Add the remaining apple juice (see photo), and season with fresh lime juice, sugar, and salt. The mixture Should be intensely flavored. Pour it into a whipping siphon, and charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide. For best results, refrigerate the mixture in the siphon for 4 hours before dispensing the foam. This recipe can be easily adapted to make a foam from virtually any flavorful fruit juice or other liquid.
Cocoa Nib a n d Cardamom Dust Pulse 20 g / y i cup of cardamom seeds in a coffee grinder until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal Add 20 g/2Vv> Tbsp of cocoa nibs. and continue pulsing until they are finely ground. Sift the mixture to remove any hulls or large pieces. This topping also makes a nice garnish for lattes and cappuccinos.
Apple Cream Pie
Chocolate Cream Pie
'M Banana Cream Pie
r
Almond and Cherry Cream Pie
Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas
Caramelized A l m o n d s
Banana, sliced on the bias 5 mm / V* in thick
120 g
1 large
Sugar
30 g
3Tbsp
Sliced almonds Sugar Egg white, blended
Arrange banana slices on a baking sheet, and freeze them until firm, about20 minutes. Sprinkle with one quarter of the sugar. Melt and caramelize the sugar by using a blowtorch (see page 15). Repeat three times to coat the banana in a layer of dark caramel, returning the bananas to the freezer as needed to prevent them from softening and starting to cook. Store frozen.
Salt
H
50 g
V2 cup
25 g lOg pinch
2V2Tbsp 2V2 tsp
Preheat the oven to 175 °C/350 °F. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper. Thoroughly combine all of the ingredients, and spread them in an even layer on the parchment. Bake until golden brown, about 6 minutes. Cool to room temperature, and then break into pieces. Store in an airtight container.
Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder Pulse freeze-dried raspberries to a powder in a coffee grinder, food processor, or blender. Sift to remove any seeds or large pieces.
Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie
Ginger Cream Pie
CREAM PIES The pie recipes here combine crust, filling, and topping variations from the preceding pages of this chapter, and then add a few extra flourishes to create stunning desserts that are suitable for virtually any menu. First, make the crust indicated; the recipes are on page 372. Next, prepare the filling, using the instructions on page 374. (Note that you'll need to double the quantities given there if you're making a large,
30 cm/12 in, pie.) Pour the pastry cream into the baked crust, and refrigerate the pie until it becomes firm, at least 1 hour. Top the pie with the topping indicated (instructions are on pages 376-377) or with whipped cream or fresh fruit. The topping instructions here assume that you are making four 11 cm /4Vfc in tarts, but they are easily adapted to make larger pies.
Almond and Cherry Cream Pie Crust: Double Almond Crust Filling: Amaretto Pastry Cream Topping: Top each tart with six fresh cherries, halved, and 15 g/1 Tbsp of crumbled Caramelized Almonds.
Ginger Cream Pie Crust: Gingerbread Crust Filling: Ginger Pastry Cream Topping: Top each tart with 15 g/1 Tbsp of candied ginger (store-bought), finely minced.
Coconut Cream Pie Crust: Coconut Crust Filling: Coconut Pastry Cream Topping: Smooth the surface of the pastry cream, and then spread 5 g/1 tsp of Passion Fruit Glaze in a thin layer over each tart. Scatter julienned young coconut over the glaze. For extra crunch, crumble toasted, shredded coconut over the tarts just before vorving.
7T\^T^
Chocolate Cream Pie Crust: Chocolate Crust Fitting: Chocolate Pastry Cream Topping: Combine 200 g / 220 mL/1 cup of whipping cream and 53 g / '/2 cup of whole, dark-roast coffee beans, and refrigerate for 12 hours to infuse. Strain, and pour the cream into a whipping siphon. Charge the siphon with two cartridges of nitrous oxide, and dispense the coffee whipped cream onto the tarts. Garnish with Cocoa Nib and Cardamom Oust.
378
MODERNIST CUISINE AT HOME
Banana Cream Pie Crust: Peanut Crust Filling: 65 g/V& cup of Pressure-Caramelized Banana Puree (see page 181), smoothed and then covered with Pressure-Infused Coffee Pastry Cream Topping: Top with frozen Blowtorch-Caramelized Bananas just before serving.
Apple Cream Pie Crust: Brown Butter Crust Filling: Sous Vide Vanilla-Cinnamon Pastry Cream Topping: Top with Apple Foam just before serving.
u$
Savory Cheese Pie Crust: Cheese Crust Filling: 50 g/14 cup of Pressure-Caramelized Onions (see page 127), smoothed and then covered with Cheese Pastry Cream Topping: Top each tart with 10 g / 2 # Tbsp of cheese bread crumbs (see page 316), Crispy Shallots (see variation on page 353), and chopped fresh thyme just before serving.
Raspberry Lemon Cream Pie Crust: Raspberry Crust Filling: Lemon Pastry Cream or Sous Vide Lemon Curd (see page 365) Topping: Dust with Freeze-Dried Raspberry Powder.
CUSTARDS A N D PIES
L.
379
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Ill
GLOSSARY OF COOKING TERMS
00 wheat floor—Italian -wheat flour milled from only the core of the wheat grain, yielding a flour with high-quality protein that makes it excellent for forming noodles and breads such as pizza and ciabatta. accuracy—how close an instrument's reading is to the true value of what is being measured. Note that accuracy is different from precision. achiote paste—red paste made from the pulp surrounding the seed of the achiote tree. It adds both color and a slight peppery flavor to food. active dry yeast—dry yeast granules available at most supermarkets. Dehydrating keeps the yeast alive but dormant. adductor muscle—muscle that pulls tissue closer to the middle of the body. The muscle that pulls the two sides of a bivalve closed. adobo—stewed meat with a vinegar-rich glaze. Considered the national dish of the Philippines. aerolatte—brand name of a battery-powered, handheld whipping tool often used to froth milk, agar—(agar agar) clear, tasteless gelling agent derived from seaweed. Can also be used as a thickener or stabilizer. Available from Asian markets or food ingredient companies. The latter sell agar powders, graded by gelling strength, that have more consistent performance, agave syrup—(agave nectar) sweetener made from agave, a desert shrub-like succulent with sword-shaped leaves. aioli—French term for a mayonnaise-like sauce boldly flavored with garlic. Traditional versions often contain potato or bread, ajowan—(ajwain) tiny, seed-like fruits of a variety of lovage with aflavorsimilar to thyme and caraway. Used in Indian foods. albumin powder—(albumen) dehydrated eggwhite protein. alkaline—having a pH value greater than 7. amchoor—(amchur) dried green mango powder; used as a seasoning to add a tangy flavor, amino acid—one of the chemical building blocks from which proteins are composed. Virtually all proteins are made from a repertoire of just 22 kinds of amino acids.
IV
amylopectin—type of polymer composed of glucose that makes natural starches. Binds up water and thickeners better than amylose. amylose—type of polymer composed of glucose that makes natural starches. Better for forming gels than amylopectin. anaerobic—living or occurring without oxygen. anaerobic bacterium—bacterium that does not require oxygen to survive. anardana—(dried pomegranate seeds) Indian spice of air-dried pomegranate seeds, or arils, often used as an acidic agent for chutneys and curries. Chiefly from tart, wild pomegranates. annatto seeds—red seeds from a tropical tree that are used as a food coloring and a mild, peppery spice. Used to make achiote powder and paste. antioxidant—any compound that inhibits oxidation reactions. Lemon juice or citric acid work as antioxidants on cut apple slices, aquaculture—cultivation of aquatic animals or plants. Arborio rice—starchy, short-grain rice; most often used in risotto and rice pudding. ascorbic acid—a form of vitamin C. Ashkenazl—one of the major groups of Jews. Ashkenazis generally speak Yiddish and live mainly in Eastern Europe. Asian fish sauce—(gartim, nam pi a, nunc mam, muria) clear, salty condiment or seasoning made from salted, fermented fish. Used widely in Southcast Asian cuisine. bacteria (singular bacterium)—large group of single-celled microorganisms that lack a nucleus or chlorophyll. bar—metric unit of measurement of barometric pressure. Standard atmospheric pressure at sea level is 1.013 bar (1,013 millibar). A gauge pressure of 1 bar, as in a pressure cooker, means that the interior pressure is 1 bar higher than the ambient air pressure of the surrounding atmosphere, bechamel—white sauce. A classic French "mother sauce" of roux-thickened, mildly flavored milk. b e a m blauc—French term for "white butter," a white wine and shallot-flavored, emulsified butter sauce.
beurre noir—French term for "blackbutter" made by heating butter to the point where the milk solids become very dark brown but not burnt beurre noisette—French term for "nut butter.* or brown butter, made by heating butter to the point where the milk solids become brown with a nutty aroma. biltong—South African term for dried, spiced meat similar to jerky. bird's eye chili—(Thai chili) fresh, tiny, very hot red and green chilies. Often used in Thai cooking but similar varieties are used internationally. bisque—thick, rich soup often made with crustacean stock that is thickened slightly with rice or pureed vegetables and finished with cream. black salt (kala namak)—Indian spice made from impure sodium chloride crystals. The salt is dark in color andflavorfrom other minerals such as iron sulfide and other sulfur compounds. blanch—to whiten or draw out, to briefly cook the exterior. To submerge food in boiling liquid briefly to loosen a peel, sanitize its surface, or to remove undesirable tastes or aromas. Bloom—measurement of the strength of a gelatin gel with a device created by Oscar Bloom, bomba rice—Spanish, short-grain white rice traditionally used for paella. bonito flakes—(katsuo bushl) shavings of cured and dried bonito, a variety offish from the mackerel family. A principal ingredient in dashi, and also used as a seasoning or garnish, braise—to slow-cook food (usually meat) in liquid or humid air in a closed vessel. brine—salt solution. Also, to imbue food with a salt solution, either by soaking or injection, in order to change itsflavorand texture. broccoli raab—(rabe, rapini) Italian* leafy green vegetable with tenderflowerbuds, bromelain—naturally forming enzyme found in pineapple that breaks down protein and is used as a meat tenderizer. Bronte Sicilian pistachio—very green pistachio with an intense, sharpflavorgrown in and around Bronte, Sicily, in the shadow of Mount Etna, brulee—French term for burn or brown, often used in reference to caramelized sugar in dishes such as creme brulee.
calcium chloride—mineral salt of calcium, used to firm up the skin of beans. Also used in making Modernist gels. calcium lactate—salt created by the interaction of lactic acid and calcium carbonate, used in baking powder. Also used as an alternative to calcium chloride to toughen the skins on beans and to add a crispness to pickles. Used commonly by Modernist chefs in making spherical gels. calibrate—to check the performance of a piece of equipment, such as a thermometer or oven, against a known standard so that it may be adjusted to conform to the standard or so that recipe steps may be altered to compensate for its inaccuracies. canning jar—heat-tolerant jar made of thick glass and having an airtight, resealable screw lid. capicola—(capicollo, coppa) Italian cured and rolled pork shoulder often served as salami. carbonation—the process of dissolving carbon dioxide gas into a substance. It is common in beverages and soft drinks, but solid foods can also be carbonated. carbonize—to char or burn. cardoon—European vegetable in the artichoke family with edible, fibrous stalks. Carnaroli rice—starchy Italian rice often used to make risotto. carnitas—Mexican dish of slow-cooked pork that is shredded and browned. carotene—fat-soluble pigments found in plants like carrots and squash that can transform into vitamin A. Beta-carotene is the most abundant of the carotenes. carrageenan—vegetarian gelling alternative to gelatin, extracted from a variety of red seaweed sometimes called Irish moss. Iota type makes soft, elastic gels. Kappa type makes firm, brittle gels. Lambda type thickens but does not gel. centrifugal force—the outward force exerted by a body as it revolves around an external axis. chaat—term used in India to refer to snacks, which are often savory dishes sold by street vendors. chaat masala—combination of spices used as a sprinkle on everyday foods and fruits in India. Blends vary by region and producer. chamber sealer—device used for vacuum sealing food in plastic bags. It includes a pump for evacuating air from the chamber, as well as one or more sealing bars that melt the open end of the bags closed once nearly all of the air has been removed. chanterelles—(girolle) wild, funnel-shaped mushrooms, valued for their golden color and nutty, buttery flavor. Black, white, and gray varieties are less common, chawanmushi—(chawan mushi) Japanese term for savory egg custard steamed in a bowl or cup, often made with seafood.
chervil—tender, parsley-like herb with a faint licorice taste; a traditional ingredient in the French fines herbes mix. chicharron—crispy fried pork skin. chicken forewing—segment of chicken wing that contains the ulna and radius bones, located between the pinion and the drummette. chickpeas—(garbanzo, cecibean, Bengal gram) high-protein legume. Available dried, canned, and occasionally fresh. chiffonade—thinly sliced, leafy greens or vegetables often used as a base or garnish, chimichurri—Argentinian condiment made of chopped herbs and aromatics in oil. Often used with grilled meats. Chinese sausage—(lap cheong, lop chong) slightly sweet, fatty pork sausage that is traditionally cured and air-dried. Also available flavored with liver. chorizo—highly spiced pork sausage. Spanish chorizo is often smoked or cured. Mexican chorizo is commonly sold fresh. clarified—made clear. Clarified fats are melted, skimmed, and decanted to make clarified fat. coagulate—to thicken or gel. coconut cream—thick creamy liquid made by grinding fresh coconut meat in water and then skimming the fatty "cream" from the top. coconut cream powder—dehydrated, powdered coconut cream available at Asian markets and specialty stores. coconut milk—liquid, usually clear or nearly clear, drained from the interior of a whole coconut. coddle—to cook gently in warm water; often referring to eggs. cohere—to stick together or bind as part of the same mass. collagen—fibrous proteins found in the skin, flesh, bones, and connective tissues that yield gelatin when cooked. combi oven—oven capable of cooking both by heated air distributed with a fan (as convection ovens do) and by steam injected into the cooking chamber. compound butter—butter that has been softened, blended with flavorings, and then chilled again. Often used as a sauce or condiment. Comte—aged French cow's milk cheese with a buttery, nutty flavor. Comte that does not meet the regional standard in flavor and production is often sold as French Gruyere. conduction—heat transfer that occurs through energy exchanged between particles, such as by the direct contact of surfaces.
confit—French term meaning "preserved." Meat confit has historically meant a preparation of salt-cured meat cooked and kept in fat to provide an airtight seal that helps preserve the food. For fruits, confit or confiture means preserves—as in jams and jellies. Confit has come to mean almost any food cooked slowly in oil or fat until tender. consomme—thin, flavorful, and very clear liquid. Traditionally made from meat broths; today, it's often prepared from vegetable and fruit juices as well. convection—heat transfer that occurs within a fluid because of the movement of particles within the fluid, such by hot air or water. convection current—moving stream of fluid created by convection. convection oven—oven that includes a fan to distribute heated air. cooking spray—neutral-tasting cooking oil in aerosol form. Some commercially available cooking sprays also contain lecithin. cook to a core temperature—phrase used to describe the technique of cooking an ingredient until the temperature in the center of the thickest part reaches a target value. core temperature—temperature at the very center of the food. Usually monitored by using a probe attached to a digital thermometer. Cotija—(queso anejo) dry, salty Mexican cow's milk cheese. creme fraiche—French term for thick and tangy cream; traditionally prepared by wild fermentation, but now prepared with a commercial culture. crown—cut of poultry that includes the breasts, rib cage, and wings. crustacean—class of aquatic invertebrate, such as lobster, crab, or shrimp, having a segmented, protective shell. curd—thickened milk gel that has been treated with a coagulant to make cheese. cure—to preserve food with salt. Often combined with smoking. Confusingly, a curing brine is sometimes called a "pickle," and sometimes foods pickled in an acidic solution are referred to as cured, although the underlying processes are different. curing—soaking meat in a chemical solution (or rubbing dry chemicals on it) to induce changes in texture, flavor, and color. curry leaves—(kari leaves) fresh, shiny, aromatic leaves used frequently in Indian and Sri Lankan cooking. In South India, the leaves are often fried in oil and used as a condiment or garnish. decant—to pour a liquid from one vessel to another, often in order to separate liquid from sediment. deglaze—to add liquid to a pan to dissolve the flavorful brown film and bits formed from dehydrated juices when many foods are cooked at a high temperature.
deionized water—water that has been purified by a process in which its mineral ions are entirely removed. Demerara—coarse,flavorfulbrown sugar crystals. The sugar originally came from the colony of Demerara, which is now part of Guyana. denaturing—the unfolding of a protein, which makes it nonfunctional. High and low temperatures, changing pH, high salt levels, and the addition of solvents such as alcohol can all denature proteins. desiccant—substance, such as silica gel, that readily absorbs moisture. Desiccants are used to keep dry food dry. desiccate—to dry out completely. diastatic malt powder—powder containing the enzyme diastase that converts starches into sugars. Made from malted grains. diffusion—natural process by which heat or a substance (such as a brine) moves from a region of high concentration to adjacent regions of lower concentration, until all areas in contact are at equilibrium. disperse—to distribute evenly, an important step when working with hydrocolioid thickeners and gelling agents, such as agar and xanthan gum. dosa—South Indian pancake made from a lightly fermented batter of beans (urad dal) and rice. dry-blend—to evenly combine dry ingredients before adding them to a recipe, an important step when combining various hydrocolioid thickeners or gelling agents. dry-bulb temperature-—temperature measurement of air. Unlike the wet-bulb temperature, humidity in the atmosphere is not a factor in the measurement. dry rub—sugar or seasonings rubbed into meat to improveflavorand retain water. edamame—Japanese name for green soybeans, often sold in the pod. efficiency—the amount of useful work a device produces during a time period, usually expressed as a fraction of the amount of energy required to operate it during that period. emulsifier—any compound, such as sodium citrate, that helps to stabilize a mixture of two otherwise immiscible liquids. emulsion—-mixture of two normally immiscible liquids, such as oil and water. energy—in physics, the capacity for doing work. enzyme—protein molecule that catalyzes chemical reactions of other substances but isn't destroyed or altered in the process. equilibrate—to gradually attain the same level as something else, such as when food equilibrates to the temperature of its environment, equilibrium—state in which no change occurs because of the balance between opposing forces or rates of reaction.
equilibrium cooking—cooking with a heat source (such as a water bath for sous vide) that is at or very close to the final desired food temperature. The food is allowed to equilibrate with that temperature. essential oil—concentration of volatile aromatic compounds in spices, herbs,flowers,and other botanicals. Collected oils are used widely in perfumery and are often of a grade suitable for food and cooking. evaporation—the change from the liquid state to the vapor (gaseous) state. extraction—the removal of material from a substance that contains it, such as by means of a solvent. farro—(emmer) ancient grain related to wheat with a dense, chewy texture, fat-soluble—molecules that dissolve in fat. fenugreek leaves—fresh greens from a plant in the pea family. Fenugreek seeds are used as a spice. The taste is bitter when raw but becomes sweeter when cooked. fermentation—the modification of a food by the deliberate growth of microorganisms in it, such as using yeast to make wine or bread. fermented black bean and chili paste— commercially available. fiddlehead ferns—tender, edible coiled sprouts of the fiddlehead fern. Collected in early spring. fines herbes—traditional French mix of herbs, including fresh parsley, chervil, chives, and tarragon; ubiquitous in French cuisine. Marjoram, cress, and lemon balm maybe added, fingerling potatoes—varieties of waxy, thinskinned, slightly sweet potatoes that grow in long, narrow oblongs resembling fingers. fino sherry—pale, dry Spanish fortified wine. fish eye-—lumps formed from incomplete dispersion of a starch or hydrocolioid gum in water. fish sauce—see Asian fish sauce. flageolet beans—French legume with a pale green color and a size similar to that of cannel I i n i or Great Northern beans. Prized for its nutty, buttery flavor and meaty texture. flaky salt—salt crystals that grow as broad, flat flakes. Maldon brand sea salt is a well-known example. flash—to expose food to extreme hot or cold temperatures, such as flash-freezing with liquid nitrogen or flash-frying with hot oil or in a hot p.m. fluid gel—gel in which the gel structure has been broken, enabling it to flow like a liquid. foam—the bubbles that compose a frothy mass. They are formed on a liquid s surface by agitating it or by subjecting it to a chemical process, foam stabilizer—substance used to prevent foam from dissipating. fond—French term for a dish's base or foundation, such as a stock or broth.
forbidden rice—especially nutritious strain of Chinese black rice once reserved for royalty. Consists of small, smooth grains that, when cooked, do not have the glutinous quality of many Asian rice varieties. forced convection—heat transfer that occurs when a fan or pump is used to move a hot fluid (such as air or water) across a food, french—butchers technique of cleaning and scraping away meat to expose the bone for a more elegant presentation. Lamb chops are commonly frenched. frequency—how often a periodic event repeats within a given interval of time. For electromagnetic waves, the number ofwave crests that pass a point in a second. fresh turmeric—small, bright orange rhizome of the turmeric plant available at Indian and some Asian markets. Peel, grate, and use in place of dried turmeric for a more vibrant color and pepperyflavor.A 2.5 cm / 1 in piece of fresh turmeric is equivalent to 10 g / 1 tsp of dried. friable—easily crumbled. fricassee—(fricassee) a white meat preparation, traditionally chicken, that is stewed in a white gravy. Various vegetables are often incorporated, and the gravy sometimes includes white wine. friction—the force resisting relative motion between two bodies in contact. fructose—sugar that is about 50% sweeter than sucrose (table sugar). Fructose is found in honey and many fruits. Granulated fructose is commercially available. galangal—variety of ginger rhizome (root). It tastes like ginger with a little more pepper and a light camphor aroma. Often used in Thai cooking, gauge pressure—the amount of pressure inside a pressure vessel that exceeds the ambient air pressure. This is the pressure reading indicated on the gauge of the vessel. gelatinize—to convert starch or collagen into gelatin or a jelly-like consistency, genus—species that are closely related, and thus considered a group. geoduck—(king clam) a Urge bivalve mollusk having a very long siphon, native to the Northwest coast of North America, ghee—slowly clarified unsalted butter. Used prominently in Indian cooking gigahertz —unit offrequency indicating billion cycles per second. gigante beans—very large, flat, white dried beans. Often served as a salad or starter in Greece, gluten - combination of proteins found in cereals, notably wheat, that gives dough its characteristic cohesiveness. gochnjang—(kochujang) salty Korean paste of ondi fermented soybeans and chiiie ed ment and flavoring.
granita—flavored ice similar to sorbet but with large ice crystals that form as a result of low sugar and dissolved solids content, green mango—tart, firm mango picked before it has ripened. Can be pickled or added fresh to South Asian dishes; dried, it makes the Indian seasoning amchoor. green papaya—unripe papaya, a popular salad ingredient in Southeast Asian cuisine. Sold whole or shredded. guar gum—thickener from the endosperm of guar seeds. Similar to locust bean gum. gum—polysaccharide derived from plants that swells when wet and can thicken or gel depending on various factors. Hainanese chicken rice—simple chicken preparation originating in Hainan, China, that is especially popular in Singapore and Malaysia. Poached chicken is served with savory rice, a spicy dipping sauce, and a bowl of the flavorful poaching broth used to cook the chicken. Often accompanied with sliced cucumbers and tomatoes. hard water—water containing particular dissolved ions, such as magnesium or calcium salts. heat—transfer of energy due to a difference in temperature. Helix snails—(Helix pomatia, Burgundy snail, vineyard snail) genus of large, edible land snail. Available canned. Often baked with garlic herb butter and served as escargot. hoisin sauce—(Peking sauce) sweet, spicy reddish-brown Chinese sauce made from soybeans, garlic, chili peppers, and spices. homogenized—mixed with sufficient shearing force to break droplets into very small sizes. Homogenizing produces a smooth mixture of two or more kinds of liquid. honey powder—granules of spray-dried honey, available at health-food stores and Asian markets. hydrate—to treat a powder so that it absorbs water fully; an important step when using hydrocolloids that renders them functional. To be fully hydrated, most thickening and gelling agents must be dispersed evenly in a liquid and then heated above a certain temperature, which depends on the specific hydrocolloid and nature of the liquid it is dispersed in. hydrocolloid—any substance that thickens or gels water or a liquid containing a significant fraction of water. Iberico ham—(jamon iberico, Iberian ham) Spanish dry-cured ham made from black Iberian pigs. The most prized hams come from pigs that roam and feed naturally, often on a diet rich in olives or acorns. immersion blender—(stick blender) a handheld electric device that chops, blends, and purees food in the container in which it is being prepared.
immersion circulator—device that, when attached to a vessel that contains water, heats and circulates the water to create a circulating bath. immiscible—resistant to mixing and tending to separate after stirring halts. Oil and water are immiscible, for example. induction —physical phenomena in which an alternating current in a coil of wire sets up an oscillating magnetic field, which in turn induces corresponding electric currents in nearby conductive material. Used by induction cooktops to heat pots and pans having bases made of certain kinds of metals, such as steel and iron. infuse—to steep or soak so that the flavors or particulates dissolve into the liquid. infusion—a liquid flavored or colored by steeping a substance in it, such as brewed tea or vanilla extract.
lactic acid—the acid found in sour milk, yogurt, cheese, and many other dairy foods. Can be used to give a preparation a dairy-like tartness. Also can be used as a coagulant for protein gels. lardon—narrow strips of fat or bacon, fried crisp. lecithin—the principal emulsifier in egg yolks, also found in soybeans. Most commercially available lecithin products are derived from soy. lemon balm—an herb in the mint family having large, pale green leaves and a light, lemony aroma. lemon thyme—variety of fresh thyme having variegated leaves and a bright, lemony aroma. lobster mushroom—large reddish-orange fungus having a firm, dense texture. Not a true mushroom, but a fungus that colonizes and alters a mushroom host; thus, they must come from a trusted source.
Insta Cure #1—curing salt blend of 93.75% salt, 6.25% sodium nitrite, and safety coloring. Insta Cure #2 is different and should not be used as a substitute.
lotus root—immature root from the lotus plant. More tender than a mature lotus. lovage—green, leafy plant similar to celery; long used in southern Europe as an herb or a green, often in savory pies.
insulator—substance that is a poor medium for conduction.
mace—frond of the dried formations that cling to the nutmeg seed.
Jaccard—brand name of a handheld meat tenderizer containing several slender, sharp blades used to cut through tissues, julienned—cut into thin sticks. jus—French term for juice. The liquid that seeps out of meat during cooking, jus gras—French for "fat juice," jus gras refers to meat juice thickened or emulsified into a sauce by using fat rather than starch. kabocha squash—(Japanese pumpkin) round, sweet winter squash with green skin and bright orange interior. kala namak—see black salt. kalbi—(galbi) Korean word for "rib." Usually refers to sliced short ribs. Also describes a soy sauce marinade used in Korean barbecue. Kashmiri chili—long, bright red, dried chili popular in South India. Adds color and complex chili flavor without much heat. Kewpie mayonnaise—popular brand of Japanese mayonnaise made with rice vinegar that includes a small amount of monosodium glutamate for an enhanced umami taste. kinome—young leaves of the prickly ash or sansho plant, best in the spring when the leaves are tender, with a citrus-like, bright pepper bite. Dried, ground leaves are also called sansho. kombu—Japanese term for dried kelp, an important ingredient in the flavor and seasoning of Japanese food. Many varieties and grades are commercially available. Kombu powder is ground dried kelp.
magnetron—electronic device that generates microwaves. Mai Hard reaction—complex set of reactions among amino acids and sugars that creates the deep brown color and many of the essential aromas and flavors of baked, roasted, and fried foods. In cooking, the Maillard reaction usually occurs well above the boiling point of water and is therefore associated with cooking methods that use high heat. Browning due to the Maillard reaction is often confused with caramelizing sugar, which is unrelated.
knucklebones—the joints that connect the knee bones, usually referring to beef.
maitake—(hen of the woods) wild mushroom prized for an excellent savory flavor. Makrud lime leaves—(kaffir) aromatic leaves of a thorny bush. Often used in Thai cookery. malic acid—acid derived from apples and many other fruits. mandoline—metal or plastic manual slicer on a thin plane with an adjustable blade. M A P P gas—relatively clean- and hot-burning fuel gas made from methylacetylene and propadiene and used in kitchen blowtorches. MAPP gas is no longer available in North America, but propylene-based substitutes work as well. Propane and butane fuels are different and are not as effective for some culinary uses. Marcona almond—short, round, slightly sweet almond from Spain that is often sold fried in oil and salted. marmalade—citrus jelly with visible pieces of suspended fruit and rind. marrons glacis—French term for candied chestnuts.
VII
masa harina—dried, powdered dough made from a paste of lye-cured corn kernels (masa). Used to make tortillas and tamales. mascarpone—fresh, very mild, thick cream cheese originally from the Lombardy region of Italy. matcha—Japanese green tea powder made from very high-grade tea. matzo ball soup—Jewish soup made of chicken broth and dumplings made from unleavened dough (matzo). Traditionally served during Passover. Meyer lemon—citrus cultivar thought to be a cross between a lemon and a mandarin orange. It has a thin yellow skin with a pungent citrus aroma, a slightly sweet taste, and mild acidity. midhiu—(mijiu) Chinese fermented rice wine similar to sake. Bottles labeled as "cooking wine" have salt added to make them unpalatable so that they can be sold as an ingredient rather than a beverage in stores not licensed to sell alcoholic beverages. Microplane—brand of kitchen rasp, used for fine grating or shaving. microwave—an electromagnetic wave with a wavelength ranging from about 0.3-30 cm / 0.1-11.8 in and a frequency of 1-100 GHz. mirin—sweet Japanese rice wine similar to sake but with a lower alcohol content. Brands such as Kikkoman Aji-Mirin are meant for cooking and not drinking and can contain 40%-50% sugar as well as corn syrup and salt. miso—Japanese fermented soybean paste used for seasoning. Available in many varieties: shiro miso is pale and mild; aka miso is a more mature red miso with a more pronounced flavor and salty taste. monosodium glutamate—(MSG) salt of an amino add that adds savory umami taste. Naturally found in many foods, but also sold in retail markets in a form resembling table salt. mother dough—see preferment, mounting—from the French "monter" or "beurre monte." To enrich a sauce by stirring in cold pieces of butter just before serving. muscle fiber—cell that is capable of contracting and that forms muscle. mushroom gills—dark, papery ribs that hold the spores on the underside of mushroom caps; used to color sauces. myosin—muscle protein that combines with actin to form actomyosin (a complex involved in muscle contraction). Myosin constitutes half of all the protein in muscle. naan—teardrop-shaped, leavened flat bread from Northern India. Traditionally cooked in a tandoor, or clay oven.
VIII
natural convection—heat transfer that occurs within a substance such as a fluid, due only to fluid movement caused by density changes arising from heat. neutral frying oil—any variety of cooking oil that can withstand high temperatures and adds no strong or specific flavor of its own. neutral-tasting oil—any variety of cooking oil that adds no strong or specific flavor of its own. N-Zorbit—brand name that National Starch uses for tapioca maltodextrin. oefs en cocotte—eggs baked or cooked in a small casserole or dish. offal—organ meats. oxidation—a chemical reaction in which oxygen is chemically bound to a compound. Can cause color changes in foods. Pacojet—device that grinds frozen food while also blowing high-pressure air jets at it to reduce the food to extremely fine particles in order to puree, blend, or emulsify it. palm sugar—(jaggery) unrefined, coarse sugar made from boiled, crystallized palm sap. pancetta—Italian cured, unsmoked pork belly. Similar to bacon but often sold as thin slices from a tight roll. Panko—Japanese-style large,flakybread crumbs, pasteurize—to heat a substance to a certain temperature for a certain amount of time to kill a prescribed fraction of any harmful organisms that may be in it. pastis—French, anise-scented aperitif, pastry comb—tool with teeth; used to create even ridges and lines in pastry work. pathogen—disease-causing agent, typically a bacteria, protist, or virus, phd—Vietnamese beef and rice noodle soup. phosphate—salt of a phosphoric acid; used as tenderizers, preservatives, and to activate gelling agents. phospholipid—phosphorus-bearing fat; a principal component of animal cell walls. Piave vecchio—aged Italian cow's milk cheese. Piave is a younger, fresher cheese. Piave vecchio is aged and dry, similar to Parmesan. piment6n—Spanish smoked paprika, available in sweet (dulce) and hot (picante) varieties. pin bones—intermuscular or "floating" bones that are not attached to the main skeleton of certain fish, such as salmon. They should be removed from fish fillets before cooking, pinion—tip segment of poultry wings. piquillo pepper—firm, cone-shaped red pepper from Spain. Commonly sold in jars, packed in oil. polyethylene—lightweight thermoplastics that are resistant to chemicals and moisture, having good insulating properties and used especially in packaging and insulation. polyvinyl chloride -sec PVC.
pomegranate seeds—see anardana. pomelo—(pommelo) giant, semisweet citrus fruit thought to be the ancestor of the grapefruit Native to Malaysia. poolish—fairly wet preferment of water, flour, and active yeast cultures used as a "mother dough" in French bread making. Similar to Italian biga and American sourdough, posset—delicate dessert of sweet cream thickened by coagulation. Historically, a warm, spiced, and sweetened drink of fresh milk mixed with wine or ale. potato flour—flour made from finery ground. dehydrated potatoes. potato starch—fine powder of the starch extracted from potatoes. Used as a thickener, poule au pot—French term for "chicken in a pot* a traditional Sunday family meal of a stuffed whole chicken poached with vegetables in a flavorful chicken broth. precision—the fineness with which an instrument can discriminate in its measurements among slightly different values. Note that this is not the same as accuracy. preferment—(pre-ferment) living mixture of yeast, flour, and water used to create fermented bread doughs. Italian biga, French poolish, and American sourdough are all types of preferment. pressure-infuse—to use pressure to hasten the infusion process. Whipping siphons can be used to pressure-infuse herbs and spices into a marinade or coffee flavors into cream. pressure-render—to render fats using a pressure cooker to give them a more roasted, savory flavor. primal cut—butchers term for large sections of the whole animal. Primal cuts are then commonly cut into more familiar steaks and portions, proportional-integral-derivative (PID) controller—automated digital controller tor accurate control of temperature, used in water baths, modern ovens, and high-end espresso machines. protein—any of a large class of complex molecules containing amino acids. Proteins are essential parts of all livings cells and of the diets of .ill animals. Proteins arc a primary constituent of animal tissue but are also found in plants. pst—abbreviation of pounds per square Inch, a measurement of barometric pressure. Standard atmospheric pressure at set level is 14.7 psi. A gauge pressure of 15 psi, as in a pressure cooker, means that the interior pressure is 15 psi higher than the ambient air pressure ofthe surrounding atmosphere. purslane—low, trailing succulent often used as a salad green. Has a fresh, slightly tart flavor. PVC—the most widely produced plastic, polyvinyl chloride.
quesofresco—(queso bianco) Latin American soft, mild white cheese. Describes a number of different varieties. qainoa—ancient, tiny, round grain originally cultivated by the Incas. Higher in protein and lower in carbohydrates than many grains, radiant heat—see radiative heating. radiation—energy that flows through a medium or space via electromagnetic waves. In cooking, the radiation is typically infrared light. radiative heating—heating by means of energy that flows through a medium or space via electromagnetic waves. ramps—wild leeks, gathered in the spring; served whole or pureed. ras el hanout—North African spice blend that can include as many as 50 different ingredients. reduce—concentrate a liquid through evaporation by simmering or boiling. relative humidity—the ratio of the mass of water vapor in air to the maximum mass of water vapor that the air could hold at that temperature. render—to separate out the fat from meat by heating it slowly. resting—cooking technique in which food that has been heated is allowed to sit for a period of time. Resting allows temperature and distribution of water (juices) to equilibrate. rice bran oil—oil extracted from the germ and inner husk of rice. Has a nutty flavor. Heat-tolerant enough to be used as a frying oil. ricotta salata—Italian white, salty cheese with a crumbly texture similar to feta. Made by salting, pressing, and aging fresh ricotta. Often made with sheep's milk. Romanesco—a pale green vegetable related to broccoli and cauliflower. It has slightly coneshaped florets and a delicate flavor, rouille—French term for rust, usually referring to a reddish mayonnaise-like sauce flavored boldly with garlic and red peppers. sake—Japanese, mildly alcoholic beverage made from polished rice. Often called rice wine, but as the drink is brewed, it is technically more similar to beer. salinity—salt concentration. San Marzano tomatoes—cultivar or type of Italian pear or plum tomato prized for its robust flavor. Most commonly available canned. saturated—condition in which a substance (such as a molecule or a liquid) has combined with or dissolved into another substance as much as possible. sauce soubise—a traditional French creamy onion sauce. schmaltz—Yiddish term for chicken fat. seasoning—material added to food to add a desirable taste and/or odor.
Shaoxing wine—one of the most famous Chinese rice wines, originating from the eastern province of Shaoxing; similar to dry sherry. shear—to blend or mix by stirring. shirred—baked in a small casserole or dish; often referring to eggs. shiso—Japanese term for perilla, an intensely flavored annual with jagged edges in the mint family. Widely used in Japanese sushi, sashimi, tempura, and salads. s h r i m p paste—(belacan, gapi, kapi) fermented ground shrimp sold in blocks. An important seasoning in many South Asian dishes. Available in many varieties and names. Sicilian pistachios—bright green and revered for their flavor. The Italian pistachio nut is often sold shelled. Silpat—name brand of a fiberglass-filled silicone sheet. silverskin—tough, inedible kind of connective tissue in meat. It has a silvery color. siphon—see whipping siphon. sodium citrate—the salt of citric acid. Often used as an emulsifier in reconstructed cheese products. Used to impart a tart taste to many beverages. Also functions as a preservative. sofrito—fried mixture of oil, onions, peppers, and garlic that is considered the backbone of Latin cooking. solution—mixture of at least two components that are distributed in a uniform fashion to form a homogeneous whole. sorrel—herb with large flat leaves and a bright lemony flavor used as a flavoring or salad green. sous vide—cooking technique in which food is usually (but not necessarily) vacuum sealed, and is then cooked at accurately controlled temperatures. soy lecithin—see lecithin. spatchcock—to remove the backbone of poultry so that the bird can be flattened for easy grilling, roasting, or broiling. species—structurally similar organisms that form an interbreeding population. spider—a term used by many professional chefs for a long-handled flat-bowled strainer, often made with a "web" of interconnected wire. stage—internship completed by prospective chefs. star anise—small, brown, star-shaped pungent fruit of a Chinese and Vietnamese tree that has a flavor similar to but stronger than anise and is dried and used whole or ground as a spice, especially in Chinese cooking. steam—invisible vapor or gas phase of water. Steam is often confused with the visible fog of condensed moisture droplets. suet—very pure fat gathered from around the kidneys of lamb, cows, and other animals.
sumac—dried fruit of the sumac shrub. Ground and used as a tangy, slightly astringent spice, popular in the Middle East and Native American cuisine. Often seen sprinkled on hummus. sweat—to cook vegetables slowly in a minimal amount of fat at low temperatures so that they will soften without browning. tahini—oily paste of toasted, ground sesame seeds. tajine—(tagine) spiced Moroccan stew often served with couscous. tamarind concentrate—tangy, dark syrup made by infusing tamarind pulp with water and reducing the liquid until it resembles molasses, tamis—(drum sieve) very fine mesh cloth used as a sieve. tapioca maltodextrin—a modified starch derived from tapioca. Unique in its ability to transform oils into powders that melt back into oils when wetted. tapioca starch—purified starch taken from the root known as manioc, cassava, or yuca. tare—to reset a scale to zero by subtracting the current weight. Also means the weight of an empty container. tartaric acid—powdered acid most often derived from grapes. Used as an acidifier and antioxidant, and sometimes to prevent crystallization in sugar syrup by converting some sucrose to noncrystallizing glucose. temper—various culinary meanings include heating slowly and gently, and progressively warming a mixture by adding a hot liquid. temperature—the value of "heat" or "coldness" that determines the direction in which heat flows between contacting objects as measured on a relative scale, such as Celsius or Fahrenheit. Thai basil—aromatic form of basil popular in Southeast Asian cuisine with small, purplish leaves and an intense, slightly peppery flavor. More heat-tolerant than European or large-leaf basil. Thai chili—see bird's eye chili. tortellini en brodo—northern Italian dish of tortellini served in a rich chicken broth. tsukune—Japanese term for a kneaded, round ball of ground meat, often chicken. Commonly skewered and grilled like yakitori. turbot—large North Atlantic flatfish prized for the quality of its flesh, umami—the savory taste of the amino acid glutamic acid, or its salt monosodium glutamate. Naturally occurring at high concentrations in a wide variety of foods, including milk, cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, and especially seaweed. vacuole—in plant cells, a cavity filled with air and water.
IX
vacuum-infused—(vacuum-impregnated) to saturate the vacuoles of a food with a flavored liquid or water with vacuum pressure, velveting—Chinese term for cooking technique of battering in a thin starch mixture and then flash-frying before cooking through, vindaloo—Indian term for a spicy curry dish originally from the Portuguese region of Goa. The sauce most often includes plenty of pepper and the added tang of vinegar and/or dried mango skins. Often made with pork. viscosity—the ability of a gas or liquid to resist flowing when shear force is applied to it. vital wheat gluten—(gluten flour, gluten powder) extracted, dried gluten containing two proteins, glutenin and gliadin, that together give a dough its strength and elasticity. As a commercial product, vital gluten can be used to add strength, or "bite," to noodles or to improve the texture of bread. Wagyubeef—(Wagyu) several cattle breeds of Japanese origin that yield highly marbled meat. Wagyu beef has become synonymous with prized Japanese Kobe beef. watercress'—edible, slightly bitter green that has been collected from a safe water source. water-displacement method—technique for removing air from a zip-top bag by slowly immersing the partially open bag in a water bath. The water pressure squeezes the bag around the contents, and it may then be sealed with very little air inside. water-vapor oven—oven that uses heated water vapor as well as hot air to cook. C Vap, made by Winston Industries, is the best-known brand, wavelength—the distance between two points in a wave along the line of the direction in which the wave is advancing. weather-stripping tape—sticky-backed ribbons of foam often used to insulate doors and windows, available at most hardware stores, wet-bulb temperature—temperature of a wet object in equilibrium with the surrounding air. If the relative humidity of the air is less than 100%, then the wet-bulb temperature will be lower than the dry-bulb temperature because of evaporative cooling. Food exposed to air typically cooks at the wet-bulb temperature for much of its cooking time. Wet-bulb temperature is measured using a thermometer that is kept wet with a wick.
whey protein isolate—concentrated whey protein that has the lactose sugar removed. Can be used as an emulsifier, foaming agent, thickener, and gelling compound. Not to be confused with flavored whey powder. whipping siphon—device used to create foam in which particles of pressurized gas inserted into a liquid-filled metal tube expand into bubbles in the liquid as they leave the tube. white poppy seeds—hard, off-white seeds used in Indian, Middle Eastern, and Asian cuisine to add thickness, texture, and flavor to sauces. A flavorful oil similar to olive oil can be pressed from them. white port'—variety of fortified wine from Portugal made from white grapes. Varies in flavor from dry to sweet and often with a fruitier flavor than a similar vermouth or sherry. Wondra—brand of pregelatinized wheat flour made by General Mills. Th ickens without clumping or adding the "raw" taste of uncooked wheat flour. xanthan gum—thickener made from fermented carbohydrates. Works over a wide temperature and pH range, making it a versatile hydrocolloid. Xanthan-thickened sauces become thinner when stirred, and set again when allowed to settle. yakitori—Japanese term for grilled chicken, most often served as small pieces threaded on skewers. yeast—single-cell fungus used in fermenting wine and in creating the gas bubbles that cause bread to rise. yuzu—aromatic, tart, Japanese citrus fruit. Often used to make the dipping sauce ponzu. Salted yuzu juice is called yuzu kosho.
REFERENCE TABLES
Celsius t o Fahrenheit
Fahrenheit t o Celsius
(°c)
(°F)
(°F)
Converting Temperature
28
82.4
28
-2.2
To convert temperatures from Celsius to Fahrenheit, multiply by 1.8, and then add 32 to the product.
29
84.2
29
-1.7
30
86.0
30
-1.1
31
87.8
31
-0.6
32
89.6
32
0.0
33
91.4
33
0.6
34
93.2
34
1.1
To convert from Fahrenheit to Celsius, subtract 32, and then multiply the result by 5/9 (0.56). Celsius t o F a h r e n h e i t
F a h r e n h e it t o Celsius
CO
(°c)
(°F)
(°F)
(°C)
35
95.0
35
1.7
-196.0
-320.8
-200.0
-128.9
36
96.8
36
2.2
-78.5
-109.3
-80.0
-62.2
37
98.6
37
2.8
-60.0
-76.0
-60.0
-51.1
38
100.4
38
3.3
-40.0
-40.0
-40.0
-40.0
39
102.2
39 39
3.9 3.9
-20.0
-4.0
-20.0
-28.9
40
104.0
40 4 0
4.4
32.0
-17.8
41
105.8
41 41
5.0 5.0
1
33.8
1
-17.2
42
107.6
42 42
5.6 5.6
2
35.6
2
-16.7
43
109.4
43 43
6.1
3
37.4
3
-16.1
44
111.2
44 44
6.7
4
39.2
4
-15.6
45
113.0
45 45
7.2 7.2
5
41.0
5
-15.0
46
114.8
46 46
7.8 7.8
6
42.8
6
-14.4
47
116.6
47 47
8.3 8.3
7
44.6
7
-13.9
48
118.4
48 48
8.9 8.9
8
46.4
8
-13.3
49
120.2
49 49
9.4 9.4
9
48.2
9
-12.8
50
122.0
50 50
10.0 0.0
10
50.0
10
-12.2
51
123.8
51 51
10.6 0.6
11
51.8
11
-11.7
52
125.6
52 52
11.1 1.1
12
53.6
12
-11.1
53
127.4
53 53
11.7 1.7
13
55.4
13
-10.6
54
129.2
54
12.2
14
57.2
14
-10.0
55
131.0
55
12.8
15
59.0
15
-9.4
56
132.8
56
13.3
16
60.8
16
-8.9
57
134.6
57
13.9
17
62.6
17
-8.3
58
136.4
58
14.4
18
64.4
18
-7.8
59
138.2
59
15.0
19
66.2
19
-7.2
60
140.0
60
15.6
20
68.0
20
-6.7
61
141.8
16.1
21
69.8
21
-6.1
62
143.6
16.7
22
71.6
22
-5.6
63
145.4
23
73.4
23
-5.0
64
147.2
64
17.8
24
75.2
24
-4.4
65
149.0
65
18.3
25
77.0
25
-3.9
66
150.8
66
18.9
26
78.8
26
-3.3
67
152.6
67
19.4
27
80.6
27
-2.8
68
154.4
68
20.0
XI
Convertit*e Temperatu r& Celsius to Fahrenheit
Fahrenheit to Celsius
•ahrenhe
< F)
(°F)
(°C)
69
156.2
69
20.6
125
257
70
158.0
70
21.1
130
266
71
159.8
71
21.7
135
72
161.6
72
22.2
140
284
140
60.0
73
163.4
73
22.8
145
293
145
62.8
74
165.2
74
23.3
150
302
65.6
75
167.0
75
23.9
155
311
68.3
76
168.8
76
24.4
160
320
77
170.6
77
25.0
165
329
78
172.4
78
25.6
170
338
79
174.2
79
26.1
175
347
80
176.0
80
26.7
180
356
180
82.2
81
177.8
81
27.2
185
365
185
85.0
82
179.6
82
27.8
190
374
190
87.8
83
181.4
83
28.3
195
383
195
90.6
84
183.2
84
28.9
200
392
200
93.3
85
185.0
85
29.4
205
401
205
96.1
86
186.8
86
30.0
210
410
210
98.9
87
188.6
87
30.6
215
419
10tj$
88
190.4
88
31.1
220
428
104.4
89
192.2
89
31.7
437
107.2
90
194.0
90
32.2
230
446
230
91
195.8
91
32.8
235
455
235
112.8
92
197.6
92
240
464
40
11S£
93
199.4
93
33.9
94
201.2
94
34.4
250
482
95
203.0
95
35.0
255
491
96
204.8
96
35.6
260
500
97
M)fi fi
97
36.1
^ b j
509
98
208.4
98
36.7
270
518
99
210.2
99
37.2
275
52?
100
212
100
37.8
280
105
221
105
40.6
285
110
230
no
43 3
115
239
115
46.1
295
120
248
120
48.9
300
(°C)
XII
C
Convertint ( F)
57.2
160
71.1 73.9
79.4
118.3
473 250
121.1
536
280
137.8
545
285 l„1
534 563 572
300
148.9
I Converting Weights
Converting Weights Grams to ounces
ounces, divide by 28.35. To convert from ounces to grams, multiply by 28.35. Grams to ounces
(oz)
Ounce 5 t o grams (oz)
(g)
Ounce s to grams
>.2lb
XIII
Common Conversion Factors
JUiiTl
II
XIV
111
To convert from:
To:
Multiply by:
To convert from:
To:
Multiply by:
mL
tsp
0.203
kcal
J
4,184
tsp
mL
4.93
I
kcal
0.000
mL
Tbsp
0.068
W
BTU/h
0.001
Tbsp
mL
14.787
BTU/h
W
1,055.04
mL
cup
0.004
W
hp
0.001
cup
mL
236.59
hp
W
745.7
tsp
cup
0.021
g/cm J
oz/m*
0.578
cup
tsp
48
oz/in 3
Tbsp
cup
0.063
N
Ib force
0.22S
cup
Tbsp
16
Ib force
N
4.482
mL
oz
0.034
mbar
torr
0.75
oz
mL
29.574
tprr
mbar
1.333
pint
qt
0.5
mbar
psi
0 (Yls
qt
pint
2
psi
mbar
68.95
qt
gal
0.25
bar
psi
14.5
gal
qt
4
psi
bar
0.069
qt
L
0.946
Pa
mbar
0.01
L
qt
1.057
mbar
Pa
100
L
gal
0.264
bar
aim
0.987
gal
L
3.785
atm
bar
1.013
oz
Ib
0.063
lb
oz
16
g
oz
0.035
Metric
oz
g
28.35
(mL)
g
Ib
0.002
5
Itsp
;3|y
ib
g
453.592
10
2 tsp
&i'i
oz
kg
0.028
15
ITbsp
\fc&
kg
oz
35.274
20
4 tsp
to
Ib
kg
0.454
2 Tbsp
1
kg
Ib
2.2
\'i cup
2',,
mm
in
0.394
in
mm
25.4
cm
in
0.394
in
cm
2.54
m
ft
3.3
ft
m
0.305
s
min
0.017
1
BTU
0.001
BTU
J
1,05110
kcal
BTU
3.966
BTU
kcal
0.252
Converting Vol]bme«V1-f .
60
120
(pint)
(fl oz)
V»' cup
**
$!.:
Vi cup
'%
4' >
v.i
svi ;
;
160
Imperial
U.S.
it CUp
Hcup
'-.fi|JE
65^
1 cup 100
1)4 CUDS 17
2 cups 600
2! a cups
1,000
4'.4 cups
i 1%'
it ;3S'-'
ConverlingGramsto V o l u r n e f o r C o m m o n Ingredients You can use the table below to calculate the approximate volume equivalent of a certain weight of an ingredient. Forthin liquids, multiply the number of mL in the rightmost column by the number of grams to obtain the number of milliliters (mL). For example, 75 g of vinegar is about 75 * 1.16 = 87 mL. It is important to understand, however, that all of the recipes in this book were developed and tested by weighing the ingredients. We did not use volume measurements, for good reason: even when using calibrated spoon and cup measures, it is nearly impossible to measure volumes with precision and accuracy. How finely the f o o d is c h o p p e d , h o w firmly it is packed, how rounding was done to get to the nearest c o m m o n fraction—these factors and others routinely t h r o w off volume measurements by up t o 15%, enough t o diminish the quality of some recipes. So w e urge you to do as w e d o , and weigh your ingredients when cooking from this book. That said, we recognize that measuring volumes is often faster and is in any case c o m m o n practice, so w e converted our weights t o volumes—except for certain ingredients, such as emulsifiers or gelling agents, where the inherent imprecision of volume measurement can ruin a recipe. To make these v o l umes as precise as possible, we calculated the volumes of thin
liquids from their densities. For thick liquids and dry ingredients, w e scooped the ingredient and then leveled it with a straight edge. All volumes have been rounded to the nearest measures that are available from kitchen-supply stores, including half tablespoons, thirds or eighths of cups, and eighths of teaspoons. Metric volumes were rounded to the nearest 1 mL for volumes up to 10 mL, to 5 mL for volumes up to 100 mL, and to the nearest 10 mL or 25 mL above that. Due to the effects of rounding, you may notice that, say, 20 mL is paired with 3/2 tsp in one recipe, but in another the volume given is 20 m L / ! 1 / * Tbsp. That can happen if the conversion from the weight resulted in 17.7 mL (rounded to 20 mL) in the first case but produced 22.2 mL (also rounded to 20 mL) in the second. W h e n converted to spoon measures, 17.7 mL and 22.2 mL yield different equivalents. If you see 4 Tbsp given for a dry ingredient and wonder why w e did not simply write VA cup, it is because the two are not actually the same for ingredients, such as flours, that become packed d o w n at greater volumes.Try it yourself: measure VA cup of flour, and then remove four level tablespoons, one at a time. You'll find that there is still flour left in the cup measure when you are done. To avoid such complexity, weigh the ingredients.
COMMON LIQUIDS
1g
5g
25 g
100 g
450 g
Equivalents
Water, stock, broth, and jus
1 mL/ V* tsp
5 mL/1 tsp
25mL/5tsp
100 ml/ 3 /a cup
450 mL/2cups
lg=1.0mL
Wine, vermouth, sake, and beer
1 mL/ 'A tsp
5mL/ltsp
25 mL/5 tsp
100mL/3/ecup
450 mL/2 cups
lg=1.0mL
Thin fruit and vegetable juices, such as apple, lemon, and carrot
1 mL/V4 tsp
5 mL/1 tsp
25mL/5tsp
lOOmL/yacup
450 mL/2 cups
lg=1.0mL
Vinegars
1 mL/ VA tsp
6 mL/1 tsp
30mL/2Tbsp
T20mL/Vicup
525 mL/2V4 cups
lg=1.16mL
Liquor, such as bourbon or vodka i m L / ' A tsp
6 mL/1 Vi tsp
30mL/2Tbsp
125 mL/1/? cup
560 mL/23/« cups
lg=1.25mL
Soy sauce, fish sauce
4mL/ 3 /4tsp
20mL/4V4tsp
85mL/V3Cup
380 mL/ls/8 cups
lg=0.84mL
5 mL/1 tsp
30 mL/5 tsp
110 mL/ Vi cup
490 mL/2 cups
1 mL/ V* tsp
Purees and thick vegetable juices 1 mL/ V* tsp OILS AND FATS Refined oils, such canola, soy, vegetable, and corn oil
l mL/ V* tsp
5 mL/1 tsp
25 mL/2 Tbsp
110 mL/1/2 cup
490 mL/2 cups
l g = 1.08mL
Cold-pressed oils, such as olive, grapeseed, nut, and sesame oil
l mL / vi tsp
6 mL/TV* tsp
30 mL/2 Tbsp
HOmL/Vicup
500 mL/2Vfe cups
lg-l.llmL
Melted fats and butters
l m L / VA tsp
6mL/T/4tsp
30 mL/2 Tbsp
HOmL/Vicup
500 mL/2'/8 cups
1 g=1.11 mL
Solid fats and butters
VA tsp
r/2tsp
2V2Tbsp
Vicup
2 cups
lTbsp=15g
XV
DAIRY PRODUCTS
lg
5g
25 g
100 g
Whole milk
1 mL/!4tsp
5 m L / 1 tsp
25mL/2Tbsp
100 mL/
Heavy cream
1 m L / % tsp
6 m L / l V i tsp
30 m L / 2 Tbsp
110 m L / '/a cup
495 m L / 2 cups
Creme fraiche, sour cream
l!4tsp
2Tbsp
%cup
IMtcups
Dry cheeses, such as Parmesan and Romano, finely grated and packed
5 tsp
6 Tbsp
2 cups
7 cups
1 cup=60g
Semisoft cheeses,such as Gruyere, cheddar, and G o u d a , shredded
ITbsp
Vi cup
IVicup
6J/2 cups
l c u p = 67j
Soft cheeses, such as cream cheese, mascarpone, and chevre
Itsp
5 tsp
Vi cup
IV* cups
1 cup=230]
Dry cheeses, such as b l u e cheese and feta, finely c r u m b l e d
\A2
2ViTbsp
Tbsp
450 g 7V CUO
460 m L / 2
UM
Equivalents CUDS
lg=1.03ml 1g=1.1ml
1 cup=115 g —
EGGS (chicken, U.S. size large) W h o l e eggs, b l e n d e d
VAtsp
VATbsp
7 Tbsp
45geach
Egg whites, b l e n d e d
V/A tsp
IViTbsp
7 Tbsp
30 g each
Egg yolks, b l e n d e d
IVitsp
1 VATbsp
6V4Tbsp
PANTRY ITEMS (scoop to fill the measure, and then level it by using a straightedge) Salt, kosher ("salt" in o u r recipes)
X
IVitsp
2#Tbsp
ItspMg
Salt, fine sea salt
14 tsp
3
5 tsp
lisp = 5.5 g.
Sugar, granulated w h i t e
% tsp
ViTbsp
2 Vi Tbsp
Sugar, p o w d e r e d
Vi tsp
2'/2 tsp
4 Tbsp
1 cup
2 tsp
3 Tbsp
-Vi cup
A tsp
Sugar, grated palm
/4tsp
Finely g r o u n d spices, such as c i n n a m o n , coriander, a n d paprika
1A itsp
2'/2lsp
3 Tbsp
Chili flakes
\A
ITbsp
5 Tbsp
WW
2x'n CUps
u
Vanilla seeds, scraped f r o m 1 large, moist bean
All-purpose flour
ITbsp
4 Tbsp
3
/i cup
3% cups
0 0 wheat f l o u r
2 tsp
3 Tbsp
H cup
.'?'•? cups
W h o l e wheat f l o u r
2'/2tsp
3 Tbsp
Hcup
3 !;: filps
Masa hatina
2 tsp
3 Tbsp
34 cup
3' > Cups
Wondra
1 Vi tsp
3!'i Tbsp
% cup
Vital wheat gluten
1 Tbsp
4 Tbsp
'.'i cup
14 tsp
Itsp
lViTbsp
V&tsp
VA\%p
Baking soda Gelatin, Knox's p o w d e r e d
I
lcup-HSg
lcup*I.10g
10 g ITbsp-5 g ltsp-Sg 1 envelope 7g 1 sheet .2.5 g
Gelatin sheets, silver (160 Bloom) Yeast, instant dry
V* tsp
11/4 Isp
5 tsp
W h o l e coffee beans
9-121
ITbsp
'/a cup
1 envelope • 7 s lcup"67g
1' J cups
Dry macaroni, small e l b o w Coarse-ground cornmeal, polenta, and corn grits
l_cup=202g
2v>Tbsp
XVI It
¥> cup
3 Mi cups
1 cup-125 g
Hcup
3 i ups
1 cup»164 g
PANTRY ITEMS, continued
1g
Panko b r e a d crumbs
5g
25 g
100 g
lyiTbsp
Vicup
2 cups
Short grain rice, such as A r b o r i o ,
450 g
Equivalents 1 cup = 7 6 g
V2 cup
23/e cups
lcup = 200g
Vt cup
21/3 cups
lcup = 200g
V2 cup
25/B cups
Vt cup
2Vi cups
V2 cup
2VA cups
b o m b a , b r o w n rice W h o l e grains, such as barley a n d farro Small grains, such as q u i n o a a n d steel-cut oats W h o l e d r i e d beans, such as
lcup = 200g
garbanzo, p i n t o , a n d black beans D r i e d lentils 2'/ 2 Tbsp
3
Itsp
5 tsp
Vi CUp
T o m a t o paste
1 tsp
5 tsp
I/3 cup
Honey
ltsp
4 tsp
Vi cup
Syrup, such as m a p l e o r a g a v e
Itsp
lVzTbsp
V3 cup
D i j o n mustard
IVitsp
2 Tbsp
3
Ketchup
ltsp
2 Tbsp
Vb cup
Mayonnaise
11/2 tsp
2 Tbsp
V2CUp
Parsley leaves
V4 cup
2 cups
lsprig=3g
Basil leaves
VA
IV2 cups
lsprig = 2 g
Chives, m i n c e d
2Tbsp
VA
1 tsp
5 tsp
6 Tbsp
1 sprig=2.5 g
1 tsp
5 tsp
V2 cup
lsprig=lg
C h o p p e d nuts N u t butters, such as pistachio,
/A
cup 1 cup = 2 4 0 g
almond, and macadamia
/B
1 cup=310 g
cup
FRUITS A N D VEGETABLES
Large-leaf herbs, such as parsley,
cup
1 chive•0.3 g
cup
basil, cilantro, a n d tarragon, minced Small-leaved herbs, such as t h y m e a n d rosemary, m i n c e d 1 leaf = 0.2 g
Fresh bay leaf Citrus zest, finely grated w i t h
VA
1 tsp
1 lemon=2.5 g
cup
a Microplane 1 pepper=30g
2Vi Tbsp
Fresh j a l a p e n o 2 tsp
O n i o n , small dice O n i o n , thinly sliced (2 m m )
3 Tbsp VA
cup
VA cup
3V4 cups
1 cup
4 cups 22/3 cups
O n i o n , grated
ltsp
IViTbsp
Vi cup
Shallots, finely m i n c e d
2 tsp
3 Tbsp
^8 Clip
Shallots, thinly sliced (1 m m )
VA
Leeks, thinly sliced (2 m m )
3
lTbsp
Leeks, diced (6 m m )
cup
/fecup
5 Tbsp
1 cup 1 J/2 cups 1 cup 1 clove=3 g
Garlic clove, p e e l e d , average size Garlic, thinly sliced (1 m m ) Garlic, minced
V* tsp
lTbsp
5 Tbsp
2 tsp
3 Tbsp
1 cup
XVIf
FRUITS AND VEGETABLES, continued
ig
5g
25 g
2 tsp
3Tbsp
100 g
450 g
Equivalents
Ginger, sliced into coins (4 mm) Ginger, peeled and minced
ll
VA
tsp
Carrots, thinly sliced (2 mm)
f
A cup
1 cup
4>i cups
Cauliflower or broccoli, small florets
V* cup
Icup
4)6 cups
lhead = S00i
Celery, thinly sliced (2 mm)
14 cup
1 cup
Corn kernels
2ViTbsp
7V CUp
3 cups
1 ear-140 g kernels
'i cup
1 cup
4'/2Cups
1 mushroom * 20 g
]/2 CUp
2 cups
10 cups
Mushrooms, fresh button, minced Mushrooms, fresh shiitake caps, sliced (6 mm) Scallions, whole trimmed
1 scaHion=15 g
Scallions, green parts only, thinly sliced (1 mm)
VA Tbsp
Vi cup
Scallions, white parts only, thinly sliced (1 mm)
214 tsp
V* cup
Fresh tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced
5 tsp
ft CUp
lVi cups
Canned tomatoes, crushed
5 tsp
VJ cup
l%cups
XVIII
SOURCES Where to Buy Meat Purveyor
Address
Phone
Website
Products
Heritage Meats
18241 Pendleton St. SW Rochester, WA 98579
360-273-2202
heritagemeatswa.com
beef, veal
Kapowsin Meats, Inc.
29401118th Ave. E Graham, WA 98338
253-847-1777
pork
M a d Hatcher Farms
1437 D St. SW Ephrata, WA 98823
509-237-1351
poularde, pigeon, rabbit
Stokesberry Sustainable Farm
7429 85th Lane SE Olympia, WA 98513
360-485-2558
stokesberrysustainabtefarm.com
chickens, roosters
Zoe's Meats
Petaluma, CA 94952
707-763-9637
zoesmeats.com
meats
Where to Buy Seafood Purveyor
Address
Phone
Website
Products
Browne Trading Company
Merrill's Wharf 260 Commercial St. Portland, ME 04101
800-944-7848
brownetrading.com
caviar, other seafood
Taylor Shellfish Farms, Inc.
130 SE Lynch Rd. Shelton, WA 98584
360-426-6178
taylorshellfishfarms.com
shellfish, geoduck
True World Foods
24 Link Dr. Rockeleigh, NJ 07647
201-750-0024
trueworldfoods.com
shellfish, sashimi-grade fish, other seafood
Where to Buy Prod uce
|
Purveyor
Address
Phone
Website
Products
The Chefs Garden
9009 Huron-Avery Rd. Huron, OH 44839
800-289-4644
chefs-garden.com
microgreens
866-951-1031
foragedandfoundedibles.com
foraged mushrooms, other produce
425-333-4677
fullcircle.com
organic produce
866-862-9866
mikuniwildharvest.com
foraged mushrooms, other produce, fish and seafood, oils and vinegars, truffles
800-995-7776
sungrownorganics.com
microgreens
Foraged & Found Edibles
Full Circle Farm
31904 NE Eighth St. Carnation, WA 98014
Mikuni Wild Harvest
Sun Grown Organic Distributors
San Diego, CA
Where to Buy Spices and Seasonings Purveyor
Address
Phone
Website
Products
L'Epicerie
106 Ferris St. Brooklyn, NY 11231
866-350-
lepicerie.com
salts, vinegars, essential oils
HMart
various locations
800-648-0980
hmart.com
Korean and international ingredients and specialty foods
My Spice Sage
5774 Mosholu Ave. Bronx, NY 10471
877-890-5244
myspicesage.com
herbs, spices, and tea
Penzeys
12001 W. Capitol Drive Wauwatusa, Wl 53222
800-741-7787
penzeys.com
herbs, spices, and spice mixes
XIX
Where to Buy Equipment Purveyor
Address
Phone
Website
Products
A & D Weighing
1756 Automation Pkwy. San Jose, CA 95131
408-263-5333
andweighing.com
scales
AccuTemp Products, Inc.
8415 N. Clinton Park Fort Wayne, IN 46825
800-210-5907
accutemp.net
Accu-Stea
Aerolatte
2 Codicote Rd. Welwyn AL6 9NB United Kingdom
(+44) 845 872 4954
aerolatte.com
aerolatte
Berkel, Co.
701 S. Ridge Ave. Troy, OH 45374
800-348-0251
berkelequtpment.com
sheer
Biro Manufacturing, Co.
1114 W. Main St. Marblehead, OH 43440
419-798-4451
birosaw.com
meat erin
Cambro
5801 Skylab Rd. Huntington Beach, CA 92647
800-833-3003
cambro.com
food storage
Carpigiani C o r p . o f North America
3760 Industrial Dr. Winston-Salem, NC 27107
336-661-9893
carpigiani.com
ice-cream machine
C h a m p i o n Juicer / Plastaket M f g . Co.
6220 E. Highway 12 Lodi, CA 95240
866-935-8423
championjuicer.com
juicer
Corning
Tower 2, Fourth Floor 900 Chelmsford St. Lowell, MA 01851
800-492-1110
coming.com
hot plates; Pyrex be
Cuisinart
150 Milford Rd. East Windsor, NJ 08520
800-726-0190
cuisinart.com
food processor
D r u m m o n d Scientific Co.
500 Pkwy., Box 700 Broomall, PA 19008
800-523-7480
drummondsci.com
calibrated pipettes
Fisher Scientific
300 Industry Dr. Pittsburgh, PA 15275
800-766-7000
fishersci.com
water bath
Fluke C o r p .
6920 Seaway Blvd. Everett, WA 98203
425-347-6100
us.fluke.com
thermometers
H a m i l t o n Beach Brands, Inc.
261 Yadkin Rd. Southern Pines, NC 28387
800-851-8900
hamiltonbeach.com
milk shake blender
Hanna Instruments, Inc.
270 George Washington Hwy. Smilhfield, Rl 02917
800-426-6287
hannainst.com
pH meter
Henkelman BV
PO Box 2117 5202 CC's-Hertogenbosch Netherlands
(+31)73 62136 71
henketman.com
vacuum sealer
Hi-Tech Vacuum, Inc.
1445A, RR5 Saint-Cyrille-de Wendover Quebec |1Z 1S5 Canada
819-397-4888
hitechvacuum.com
Hualian Packaging Machines; dist. by Sealer Sales
18327 Sherman Way Reseda, CA 91335
818-705-0203
sealersales.com
strip sealer
175 Route 46 W. Fairfield, NJ 07004
973-227-2426
isihorthamerica.com
siphons
iSi N o r t h America, Inc.
2050 Center Ave., Suite 425 Fort Lee, N) 07024
201-585-2442
iwatani.com
induction burner
JB Prince
36 E. 31st St. New York, NY 10016
800-473-0577
jbprince.com
books; kitchen utensils
j u l a b o USA
884 Marcon Blvd. Allen town, PA 18109
610-231-0250
julabo.de
cooling bath
Kuhn Rtkon
Nescbwilerstrasse 4 CH-8486 Rikon Switzerland
(+41) 52 396 0101
kuhnrikon.cb
pressure cookers
Iwatani G r o u p
Purveyor
Address
Phone
Website
Products
Labline Scientific Instruments
C/108 Maruti Darshan Hanuman Chowk LT. Road, Mulund (East) Mumbai 400 081 Maharashtra, India
(+91)22 216 33671
labline.in
water bath
Lenox
301 Chestnut St. E. Longmeadow, MA 01028
413-525-3961
lenoxtoois.com
MAPP gas torches
LISS America
106 Skyline Dr. S. Plainfield, NJ 07080
908-222-1015
liss-america.com
nitrous and carbon dioxide chargers
Mettler Toledo, Inc.
1900 Polaris Parkway Columbus, OH 43240
800-METTLER
mt.com
Microplane
614 SR 247 Russelville, AR 72802
800-555-2767
Moschetti, Inc.
11 Sixth St. Vallejo, CA 94590
800-556-4414
Pacojet AG
Bundesstrasse 7 CH-6300 Zug Switzerland
(+41)41710 2522
pacojet.com
PolyScience
6600 W Touhy Ave. Niles, IL 60714
800-229-7569
cuisinetechnology.com
R a t i o n a l / A k r o Ltd.
85 Gregory Rd. Mildenhall, Suffolk IP287DF United Kingdom
(+44)1638 712 522
rational-ovens.co.uk
Sartorius AG
Weender Landstrasse 94-108 D-37075 Goettingen Germany
(+49) 551 3080
sartorius.com
scales
Sunpentown
14625 Clark Ave. City of Industry, CA 91745
800-330-0388
sunpentown.com
induction burner
Taylor Company
750 N. Blackhawk Blvd. Rockton, IL61072
800-255-0626
taylor-company.com
ice-cream machine
Thermo Fisher Scientific
81 Wyman St. Waltham, MA 02454
781-622-1000
thermofisher.com
water bath
Thermo Sensors C o r p .
PO Box 461947 Garland, TX 75046
800-889-5478
thermosensors.com
thermocouples
UKThermomix
Thorp Building Whitmore Lane Sunningdale Berkshire SL5 0NS United Kingdom
(+44)1344 622 344
ukthermomix.com
Thermomix blender
Viking Range Corp.
111 Front St. Greenwood, MS 38930
662-455-1200
vikingrange.com
mixer
Vita-Mix C o r p .
8615 Usher Rd. Cleveland, OH 44138
800-437-4654
vitamix.com
Vita-Prep blender
The Vollrath Co.
1236 N. 18th St. Sheboygan, Wl 53081
800-624-2051
vollrathco.com
cookware
VWR International
Radnor Corporate Center Building One, Ste. 200 100 Matsonford Rd, PO Box 6660 Radnor, PA 19087
610-386-1700
vwrsp.com
water bath
W a r i n g Commercial
314 Ella T. Grasso Ave. Torrington, CT 06790
800-492-7464
waringproducts.com
deep fryer
Winston Industries
2345 Carton Dr. Louisville, KY 40299
800-234-5286
winstonind.com
CVap; pressure fryer
scales microplane.com microplanes moschetti.com
pasta machine Pacojet circulators combi oven
XXI
Scientific Ingredients Ingredient
Local Sourcing
North America
Europe
Notes
agar (agar agar)
widely available at Asian and specialty food markets, health-food stores, gourmet supermarkets
chefrubber.com le-sanctuaire.com iherb.com
msk-ingredients.com infusions4chefs.co.uk solegraells.com
Powder or granules are preferred. Flakes or strips can be ground into powder. Avoid colored sticks and sweetened agar dessert powders.
kingarthurflour.com chefrubber.com
sosa.cat infusions4chefs.co.uk solegraells.com
Pure albumin is
chefrubber.com cheesemaking.com bullcfoods.com
solegraells.com infusions4chef5.co.uk msk-ingredients.com
Powder or granules are preferred. Liquid is available from cheesemaking suppliers. Calcium lactate and calcium lactate gluconate work similarly.
modernistpantry.com chefrubber.com le-sanctuaire.com
solegraells.com infusions4chefs.co.uk
Iota type creates soft, elastic gels. Kappa type creates firm, brittle gels. Lambda type thickens without gelling.
chefrubber.com lepicerie.com le-sanctuaire.com iherb.com
infusions4chefs.co.uk msk-ingredienls.com solegraells.com
albumin powder widely available at supermarkets, ( p o w d e r e d egg whites, health-food stores, cake decorating egg w h i t e p o w d e r , . ,J^.A meringue powder),
a n d craft sho
Ps
calcium chloride (Pickle Crisp: Ball b r a n d ; Calcic: Texturas brand)
often available where pickling or cheese-making supplies are sold; ask local cheese makers
carrageenan
citric acid (sour salt)
widely available at gourmet/ specialty food stores, healthfood and supplement stores, and where kosher foods and canning/ preserving supplies are sold
diastatic malt p o w d e r widely available; ask at bakeries (diastatic malt enzyme, a n d brewing-supply stores diastatic malt flour)
lepicerie.com modernistpantry.com K
kingarthurflour.com chefrubber.com
Products labeled nondiasfatic have no active enzymes and are used for flavoring only. Brewers measure enzyme strength in degrees Lintner (°L).
essential oils
widely available at herbal and essentialoil.com natural medicine shops; ask at pastry iherb.com shops, spas, aromatherapists, and lepicerle.com soap makers
solegraells.com sosa.cat
Organic, 100% pure, and food-grade oils are preferred.
freeze-dried fruits and vegetables
widely available at supermarkets, health-food stores, and outlets selling survival goods; check at camping and outdoor stores
infusions4chefs.co.uk lyofood.com sosa.cat
Buy whole fruits and vegetables and grind into powders as needed for best results. spr.iydried juice powders are also useful, but often contain additional ingredients 9t\d may not be as flavorful.
gelatin
Knox's instant gelatin is available at chefrubber.com supermarkets. Sheet gelatin can be modernistpantry.com found at specialty food markets and pastrychef.com import stores; ask at pastry shops and bakeries, and confirm the Bloom strength before using
infusions4chefs.co.uk msk-ingredients.com sosa.cat
Strengths vary greatly. Knox's instant gelatin and silver sheets (160 Bloom) are most common. Industrial strength gelatins and gelatins made specifically for fish, beet or pork *re sold by chelruhher.com.
honey p o w d e r ( p o w d e r e d honey, honey granules)
widely available at Asian markets and chefrubbcr.com health-food stores modernistpantiry.com
chefrubber.com justtomatoes.com lepicerie.com
IS
Honey powders may wiciuoe cine Juno, agave syrup, and Stabilizers, Check tho label if you have a preference.
ingredient
Local Sourcing
North America
Insta Cure #1 (Prague p o w d e r #1)
widely available where sausagemaking supplies are sold; also try sporting goods/outdoor stores that cater to hunters, or ask your butcher
sausagemaker.com
Insta Cure #2 contains additional sodium nitrate and should not be used as a substitution.
liquid soy lecithin
available at health-food stores and some soap- and candle-making suppliers
iherb.com lepicerie.com modernistpantry.com
Do not confuse with powdered soy lecithin or lecithin powders used for making light foams.
malic acid
ask at brewing- and wine-making supply stores; also try health-food and supplement stores.
Iepicerie.com modernistpantry.com chefrubber.com
infusions4chefs.co.uk
le-sanctuaire.com modemistpantry.com chefrubber.com
infusions4chefs.co.uk
bobsredmill.com kingarthurflour.com
toutelabio.com
The terms flour and starch are often used interchangeably, but the products can differ greatly. Review ingredients listed on the packaging for clarification.
modernistpantry.com lepicerie.com le-sanctuaire.com
msk-ingredients.com
Sold as fine, very light flakes or powder. Tapioca maltodextrin is different from tapioca starch and maltodextrin.
toutelabio.com
sodium citrate (Citras: Texturas brand) specialty flours and starches
widely available at gourmet supermarkets, international markets, and natural foods stores
tapioca maltodextrin (N-Zorbit: National Starch brand) vital wheat gluten
available at supermarkets and health-food stores; ask at bakeries and vegetarian restaurants
bobsredmill.com kingarthurflour.com
whey protein isolate
available at health-food and supplement stores, and at stores specializing in sports nutrition
iherb.com bulkfoods.com
Wondra (Robin H o o d Easy Blend flour)
widely available at supermarkets
xanthan gum (Xantana: Texturas brand; Bob's Red Mill brand)
widely available at natural foods markets and health-food stores
Europe
Notes
Avoid capsules and tablets, as they often include additional, unnecessary ingredients.
Most commonly sold in large tubs. Avoid flavored or sweetened whey protein powders or pure powdered whey. Avoid instant thickening flours or "gravy granules" made of potato starch; they are not interchangeable.
bobsredmilI.com chefrubber.com
infusions4chefs.co.uk msk-ingredients.com
Always measure carefully to avoid gumminess.
iherb.com
XXIII
CONTRIBUTORS
Sf
Nathan Myhrvold
Maxime Bilet
Grant Lee Ciilly
Anjana
Developmental chef
Developmental chef
C lu-is !,...,• Cutaway machinist
A t l l O I I V.-l
,>S,1
Developmental chef
Johnny Zhu Developmental chef
Sam f they- Burke
kimh.-.iySi h#mb Developmental chef
Jonathan
Developmental chef
;
*mm
Culinary reviewer
Uther contributors: Ryan Matthew Smith, Alexandra Nickerson, Kryatanne Casey, Larry Lofthouse, Aaron Shattuck, Richard Sherman, Ted Ellis, Mike Vinton, Amy Hatch
XXIV
Wayt Gibbs
TracV C u t c h I o w
Mark Clemens
Jennifer Sugden
Editor in chief
Managing editor
Art director
Production manager
Carrie Wicks
Susan Volland
Uaniel McLoy
Judy Oldfield-Wilson
Copy editor
Recipe tester and editor
Editorial assistant
Online writer
Melissa Lehuta
Chris Hoover
Stephanie Billmayer
Tyson Stole
Lead photographer
Photo editor
Assistant photo editor
Photographer
Bruce Harris
Mark Pearson
Carrie Bachman
Scott Heimendmger
Publishing consultant
Publishing consultant
Publicist
Business development manager
XXV
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS The authors would like to acknowledge the generous contributions of the many companies and individuals who supported the effort to create this book. In addition to those mentioned in the contributors section above, we benefited from the expertise, advice, material
support, and valuable assistance of the people and companies listed here. Of course, any errors that remain in the final product are the responsibility of the authors alone.
Individuals Providing Expertise and Advice
Companies Providing Equipment
John Bailey, Shelby Barnes, Kim Christiansen, Lee Dicks Guice,
Chef Rubber, CookTek, Electrolux, Fresh Meats Solutions, Gaggenau. 1% .
Gary Hawkey, Claudia Leschuck
Kuhn Rikon, Mikuni Wild Harvest, Omni, Pacojet, Polvscience, Rationale. Robinson Laser, SousVide Supreme, Taylor Shellfish, Terra Spice. Viking. Vitamix, Vollrath, Winston Industries
Photo Credits C h a n t t?r 6 : B r e a k f a s t F g < --
b = bottom, I = left, c = center, r = right,
Chapter 3: Cooking Sous Vide
u = upper, L = lower
Chris Hoover: 51: uc; 64:1
Melissa Lehuta: 144: uc, ur, LI; 147: ur, LI.
Melissa Lehuta: 48-49; 51: ul, ur, LI, Lr;
Lr; 149-150; 151: r: 152-153
53: ur; 59: ml, mr, LI, Lr; 60; 63: t; 64: r;
Nathan Myhrvold: 149: LI
endpaper, back inside endpaper
66; 67: LI
Ryan Smith: 141: b; 142-143; 144: ul. Lr;
Nathan Myhrvold: back cover
Nathan Myhrvold: 54-55
146; 147: ul, uc
Ryan Smith: front inside endpaper,
Ryan Smith: 49: t, b; 53: ul, uc, LI, Lc,
Tyson Stole: 151:1, c
back endpaper
Lr; 54: ur. LI; 57: ul, ml. Lr; 61-62; 64: b;
Position indicators: t = top, m = middle,
• o c>"s a n d E n d p a p e r s Melissa Lehuta: front cover, front
65: ur. b
Front M.itier
Tyson Stole: 50; 52; 56; 57: uc, ur, mc. mr,
Scott Duncan/Martha Stewart Living
LI, Lc; 58; 59: ul. uc. ur; 63: m. b; 65: LI;
Omnimedia, Inc.: xii
67: ul, ur, m, Lr
Deborah Jones: xiii Melissa Lehuta: xiv-xvi; xxii Ryan Smith: xxiv-xxv
Chris Hoover: 140-141; 145; 151: b
08-10; 11: ul, uc, ur, Lr: 12; 14: Lr; 15: Lc:
Tyson Stole: 69: r; 72: LI; 75: Lr; 78
16-17; 18: l.lc. re, r; 20:1, ur; 21
Chef Rubber: 72: b
Tyson Stole: 216-217; 218: b; 219: Lr.b;
Melissa Lehuta: 156-160; 162: b; 163-164;
222: LI
165:1, c. r; 167: t, ur; 168: r; 169: ul; 170-175
Chapter h $mmu$ Cooked VegetableSoups Melissa Lehuta: 180-181
' h.ipici 5*. Basic*:
Ryan Smith: 176: b; 178; 179: ul. uc. ur, Lm;
15: ul. LI. Ln 18: b; 19; 20: Lr
182-183:184:1, c. r; 185
121: Lr; 135; 139: t
Tyson Stole: 184: b
Melissa Lehuta: 82-83; 85; 87: ul, ur. LI. Lc 90: uc, ur, LI; 91: ul, urn, LI. Lm; 92-93;
( i M -I i n : ' v , i a r
96; 98: Lc, Lr. b; 99: t. LI; 100-101; 103:1,
Chris Hoover: 45; 46 Melissa Lehuta: 22-23:24: r; 25; 27: ul, uc, LI. Lc. Lr; 29; 32: ul, ur. ml. mc, mr; 33-34; 35: r; 36-38; 39: ul, ur, LI. Lr; 41: ul. LI. Lc;
c, r; 104-107; 109; 111; 112:1, c, r; 113; ul. uc, ur, Lr; 118; 120; 121: ul. ur, LI, Lc; 122:123:1; 124-127; 128: ul, uc. ur; 130-134; 136:1, uc. Lc; 137: ul. uc, LI, Lc; 139: b
44
Ryan Smith: 84; 86; 87: Lr; 88-89; 90: ul;
Ryan Smith: 22: b; 24:1; 28; 32: LI, Lr;
94; 97; 114-115; 116: b; 119: LI; 123: c, r;
39: b; 40; 41: Lr; 42-43; 45-46
128: LI. Lr; 129; 137: r
Tyson Stole: 27: ur; 30-31; 35:1, c; 41: uc.
Tyson Stole: 95; 98: ul, uc. ur, LI; 99: ul,
ur; 42-43; 47
uml. Loml; 108; 110; 113: ml, mc. mr, LI; 117; 119: ul. uc, ur. ml, mr; 136: r
XXVI
. ••••
Ryan Smith: 155: b; 162: t; 166; b
Chris Hoover: 91: r; 102; 103: t; 112: t; 116: t;
Chapter 2: Conventional
Chapter 11 ' anritas
Chris Hoover: 154-155; 166-167
Ryan Smith: 05: b; 11: LI; 13; 14: ur, LI; Tyson Stole: 07: ul. LI, Lc. Lr
215: ul. ur. ml. Lr, b
Ryan Smith: 217: b
Nathan Myhrvold: 176-177; 179: b
Nathan Myhrvold: 04-05; 06: r
Tyson Stole: 211: Lr: 212: ul. uc. ml. LI: Lr;
and Cold Soups
169:uc,ur,b
Ryan Smith: 69: b; 72: ur; 73: ur, Lr, b
Ryan Smith: 204-205; 205: b; 206
Lc; 220-221; 222: ul. ur, Lr; 223-225
74; 75; ul. ur, LI; 76-77; 79 Melissa Lehuta: 02-03; 06:1; 07: ur;
mc. mr, LI; 212: ur. Lr; 213-214; 215: mc. mr
(. h . t p U - r ": S.ii.-«.|s
Tyson Stole: 161; 165: b; 167: Lr; 168:1;
Nathan Myhrvold: 68-69
Melissa Lehuta: 207-210:211: ul, uc. ur, ml.
Melissa Lehuta: 218:1, c, r; 219: ul. uc, ur.
11 • Mil. Melissa Lehuta: 70-71; 72: ul. Lr; 73: ul. LI;
Chapter 1: Countettop Took
vnapter l u : vJiees *
Melissa Lehuta: 230:231: ul. ur. ml, mr. LI. Lr: 232-233:235 Nathan Myhrvold: 226-227 Ryan Smith: 228-229; 231: b: 234 • • t p t r - i l:R«
-.
Melissa Lehuta: 236-217; 238-240:241; LI. Lr; 242-243; 246: Lr, b; 247 Ryan Smith: 237: b Tyson Stole: 241: ul, ur. m: 243: Lc; 244245; 246: ul. uc, ur
Chris Hoover: 189: Lr; 202: r Melissa Lehuta: 188: ul, LI: 189: ul, buc. ml. LI. Lc; 191: or, b; 192; 193: ul, ur. ml. mlc, mrc, LI, Lie. Lie 194; 195: ul, uc, ur, b; 196-200; 201: ul, ml. b; 203
Char-
•